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| SWISS
CHRONOMETERS Switzerland's
mechanical watch boom has brought a surge in
watches bearing a special designation on the
dial: chronometer. What are chronometers? How
are they different from regular watches? Why
are they important? Why are they mostly mechanical
watches? And what should you tell customers
about them? For the answers to these and other
questions, read on. |
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What
is a chronometer?
What
does a watch have to do to earn the title of
chronometer?
Who
conducts the tests?
What
tests are run on the watch?
How
many movements does COSC test each year and
how many certificates are issued?
Why
are most chronometers mechanical watches?
Do
many companies apply for chronometer certificates
for their watches?
How
is the demand for chronometers?
Which
firm is the leader in production of Swiss chronometers?
What
is the difference between a chronometer and
a chronograph?
So
what is a marine chronometer? |
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1.
What is a chronometer? A
chronometer is an extremely accurate watch or
clock. It takes its name from the Greek words
(chronos + metron) meaning to measure time.
A Swiss chronometer is a watch, usually mechanical,
whose precision has been tested and verified
by an official Swiss watch testing bureau. The
watch comes with a ratings certificate issued
by the institute. The chronometer designation
is a badge of honor, proof that the watch is
of superior quality. |
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2.
What does a watch have to do to earn the title
of chronometer?
The
watch's movement must pass a battery of severe
tests conducted for 15 days and nights. The
movement's accuracy is checked in five different
positions and at various temperatures which
simulate conditions under which the watch will
be worn. |
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3.
Who conducts the tests?
The
Swiss Official Chronometer Control (Controle
Officiel Suisse des Chronometeres, or COSC,
in French). COSC is an independent association
governed by the Swiss Civil Code.
Watch
companies desiring the chronometer designation
on their best pieces send movements to COSC.
(COSC tests uncased movements; the companies
case the movements after the tests.) COSC issues
a performance certificate for each timepiece
which successfully passes the tests.
There
are three COSC centers in Switzerland where
watch companies send movements to be tested--in
Geneva, Bienne and Le Locle.
Switzerland
has been officially testing chronometers since
1878. COSC as it exists today was founded in
1973. |
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4.
What tests are run on the watch?
COSC
conducts elaborate precision tests on the movements
using cameras and computers, which analyze the
data. COSC performs seven different tests. Failure
to meet the minimum standard in any one of the
tests means that a movement is rejected.
The
tests are complicated. Here is an attempt at
a simple summary:
| Test
1: |
Mean
Daily Rate: After 10 days of tests, the
mean daily rate of the movement must be
within the range of -4 to +6 seconds per
day. COSC determines the mean daily rate
by subtracting the time indicated by the
movement 24 hours earlier from the time
indicated on the day of observation. |
| Test
2: |
Mean
Variation in Rates: COSC observes the movement's
rate in five different positions (two horizontal,
three vertical) each day over 10 days for
a total of 50 rates. The mean variation
in rates can be no more than 2 seconds. |
| Test
3: |
Greatest
Variation in Rates: The greatest of the
five variations in rates in the five positions
can be no more than 5 seconds per day. |
| Test
4: |
Horizontal
and Vertical Difference: COSC subtracts
the average of the rates in the vertical
position (on the first and second days)
from the average of the rates in the horizontal
position (on the ninth and tenth days).
The difference must be no more than -6 to
+8 seconds. |
| Test
5: |
Greatest
Deviation in Rates: The difference between
the greatest daily rate and the mean daily
test rate can be no more than 10 seconds
per day. |
| Test
6: |
Rate
Variation Due to Temperature: COSC tests
the movement's rate at 8 degrees Celsius
(46 degrees Fahrenheit) and at 38 degrees
C (100 degrees F). It subtracts the cold
temperature rate from the hot temperature
rate and divides by 30. The variation must
be no more than 0.6 seconds per day. |
| Test
7: |
Resumption
of the rate: This is obtained by subtracting
the average mean daily rate of the first
two days of testing from the mean daily
rate of the last test day. The resumption
of rate can be no more than 5 seconds. Simple,
isn't it? If a movement meets the standards,
COSC issues a certificate designating it
as a "chronometer." |
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5.
How many movements does COSC test each year and
how many certificates are issued?
In
1995, COSC tested 844,043 movements. That was
down slightly (-4.5%) from 1994 when a record
883,714 movements were submitted for testing.
The vast majority of the movements sent in for
testing pass. In 1995, COSC issued 814,868 certificates,
96.5% of those submitted. That means chronometers
represent about 2% of Switzerland's total production
of complete watches. |
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6.
Why are most chronometers mechanical watches?
Just
one-third of 1% of the movements submitted for
testing in 1995 (3,026 total) were quartz movements.
That's because electronic quartz technology
is by definition an ultra-precise form of timekeeping
and there is less need to demonstrate a quartz
watch's accuracy. That's not the case with mechanical
watches. Even so, COSC has developed stringent
regulations which quartz watches must pass before
they can be called chronometers. Worth noting:
by far the leader in Swiss quartz chronometers
in 1995 with two-thirds of the total certificates
issued was Krieger Watch Corp. of Miami Beach,
Fla. |
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7.
Do many companies apply for chronometer certificates
for their watches? More
than 60 firms submitted movements to COSC in
1995. |
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8.
How is the demand for chronometers?
Despite
the drop in requests in 1995, there has been
a surge of watch company applications for chronometers
in this decade. COSC data shows that the number
of movements submitted bottomed out in 1976
at 225,712. Requests did not pass the 300,000
unit mark again until 1984. It rose steadily
throughout the late 1980s but has soared in
the 1990s, reflecting the strength of Rolex,
in particular, and the general revival of Swiss
mechanical watches on world markets. In 1990,
the number of movements submitted to COSC passed
the 600,000 unit mark for the first time. By
1994, the number had reached 883,714, an increase
of 43.5% over 1990. |
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9.
Which firm is the leader in production of Swiss
chronometers? Rolex
is the undisputed chronometer king. An amazing
83% of all chronometer certificates issued by
COSC in 1995 went to Rolex--more than 675,000
of them. You get some sense of Rolex's dominance
when you realize that only five firms (one of
them a group, really) produce more than 6,000
chronometers a year. The
second largest producer of chronometers is TAG
Heuer (51,638 certificates in 1995), followed
by Omega (31,135 certificates), the Cartier
Group (6,393) and Bulgari (6,056). |
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10.
What is the difference between a chronometer and
a chronograph? The
terms sound similar but they have nothing to
do with each other. A chronometer, as we have
seen, is a superior timekeeper. A chronograph
is a watch with a stopwatch function. |
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11.
So what is a marine chronometer?
A
marine chronometer is an instrument used on
a ship at sea to determine the longitude by
measuring the time. It was developed in the
18th century. |
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