|
Question:
"I
can't seem to wear mechanical watches. Either
they work sporadically or they don't work
at all on my wrist. Why is that? Luigi Zanneti,
La Spezia, Italy
Answer
by Professor J.C. Nicolet
There
may be several reasons why a mechanical watch
does not work. Most people who have this problem
fall into one of the following categories.
1.
An old and worn watch
Sometimes
a person inherits a high quality watch which
had worked well for more than 20 years when
worn by its previous owner. Therefore, the new
owner expects it to work as well for him. Well,
it's precisely because the timepiece has given
good service for so long that it has become
worn out and it deserves a good retirement alongside
other "antiques". Nobody expects modern
exploits from a classic car, even if it was
the best during its era. Why should we expect
anything different from a watch?
2.
A new but not water-resistant watch
A
modern watch, even if housed in a magnificent
case but one which is not water-resistant, can
have problems when it is subjected to many of
life's daily activities. If worn during sleep,
dust can enter the watch just from rubbing against
the sheets. On the other hand, if the watch
is removed before going to bed, its internal
temperature decreases creating an airflow into
its interior. As the air enters, so does the
ambient dust, but unlike the air, these small
particles do not leave.
Non
water-resistant watches need more care that
other timepieces and it is necessary to have
them cleaned more often; usually once a year
for small ladies' models and once every two
years for less delicate men's watches.
The
use of perfume can also damage these watches
as it can negatively affect the oil used to
lubricate the delicate watch parts. Happily,
synthetic oils used today are more resistant
to the chemical in perfumes.
3.
A manual-winding watch
All
hand-wound mechanical watches, water-resistant
or not must be wound regularly. Modern mechanical
watches can often work for 40 to 50 hours between
windings as compared to earlier models whose
power-reserve was 30 to 36 hours. It is preferable,
however to wind these watches every day and
at about the same time because this will increase
their precision.
Some
wearers wind their watches whenever they happen
to think of it, that is, several times during
one day and not at all the following day. It
is not wonder, then, that their timepieces sometimes
stop. If this sounds like you, you should consider
wearing a quartz or an automatic mechanical
watch.
4.
Automatic and water-resistant watches
Automatic
and water-resistant watches can also present
a number of problems that may be due to two
factors:
-the
wearer is too still,
-the
wearer is too active.
People
who are bedridden or confined to a chair because
of illness, old age or, as is more likely the
case, have low activity desk jobs, are not getting
enough activity to rewind their automatic watch.
When these people were healthier or just more
active, their watches worked well, and it is
perhaps difficult for them to admit that they
are the reason for the poor operation of their
faithful timepieces.
On
the other hand, people who are too active, especially
those who gesture a lot, tend to overwind their
watches. They should remove their watches at
night to better maintain the automatic winding
mechanism. For those who are less active, they
should wear their watches at night to keep them
wound.
Watchmakers
have defined what they call the "winding
speed" of manual-winding mechanical watches
by using a very simple formula:
| |
Time
worn + time not worn |
| Winding
speed= |
----------------------------------------------- |
| |
Time
worn |
Example:
An unwound automatic watch (but wound just enough
so that it will start functioning) is placed
on the wrist and worn during 8 hours. Taken
off, it will work for 16 hours without stopping.
Therefore:
| |
8
+ 16 |
| Winding
speed= |
------------------------------------------------=
3 |
| |
8 |
A
normal winding speed is between 2 and 3. Below
2, the watch may stop. Above 3, it will work
very well at the beginning but the mechanism
will wear out faster than normal.
5.
Watches used under rigorous conditions
Everyone
who wear a watch under difficult conditions
should use a water-resistant or even a diver's
watch, especially when this watch is exposed
to shocks, water (especially sea water), acids,
dust or sudden temperature changes. Watches
used under such conditions should be equipped
with resistant crystals and anti-shock devices.
For doing housework, it is also preferable to
wear water-resistant timepieces because they
can be unintentionally exposed to water.
The
magnetic doors on refrigerators and cabinets
may magnetize a watch if they come into direct
contact with it. In these cases stainless steel
offers better protection than a gold case. A
magnetized watch works very poorly though, at
first glance, it is not apparent that there
is the problem.
And
what about quartz watches?
Quartz
watches with analog display, that is with dial
and hands (the only kind of quartz watches manufactured
in Switzerland) can be damaged by water and
dust. If they are in a watertight case, they
are well protected and should work fine as long
as the battery is good. They are also less susceptible
to the effect of magnetism than their mechanical
counterparts. However, they have the additional
disadvantage of stopping with no warning once
the battery is low. If it has not been changed
for a long time, it is a good idea to replace
the battery before going on a trip or on vacation
since the right one my be difficult to find
outside major centers in most countries.
Swiss
companies selling quartz watches are able to
ensure good maintenance and repair as long as
the component parts are available. Once parts
are no longer being made, the watches cannot
be repaired. On the other hand, mechanical watches
can be repaired as long as a watchmaker can
be found who is capable of handmaking defective
parts. This, of course, is expensive, but if
the watch is a collector's item, it may be worth
the effort. |