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How “classic” is Ulysse Nardin’s Classic Sonata?

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October 2016


The limited edition timepiece aims to bring classical beauty with stunningly functional complications. But does it deliver on both?

ANNIVERSARY 160 by Ulysse Nardin

When I think of a “sonata” I think of a piece of music that is being played. Add the word “classic” before that and I would expect something that defines a certain standard that has stood the test of time.

Put those two words together in the watchmaking world and you get Ulysse Nardin’s latest offering, the “Classic Sonata”. Had I not seen the watch before I learned of its name, I would have guessed that it’s a minimalistic and elegant dress watch that has a chiming complication.

ANNIVERSARY 160 by Ulysse Nardin

I wouldn’t have been too far off, I suppose, but something about the name of this watch doesn’t exactly match my initial expectations.

The limited edition (99 pieces) Classic Sonata is certainly a complex mechanical instrument, powered by the patented caliber UN-67 self-winding manufacture movement. Thanks to the impressive calibre, the timepiece does indeed have an alarm function with a nice chime. It also boasts a 12h or 24h alarm setting, which means the alarm can be set for a.m. or p.m, and a hand at 10 o’clock tells you whether or not the alarm is activated.

ANNIVERSARY 160 by Ulysse Nardin

The movement also enables the alarm to be synchronized with its Dual Time system when traveling. The brand’s prized Dual Time complication with instant time zone adjuster is featured on the blued dial at 6 o’clock – a dial colour that seems to be on the up these days. The date can be easily read in a double window at 4 o’clock.

The watchmaker is also one of the leaders in using silicone technology in its timepieces, and this watch is no different. The Classic Sonata sports a silicium hairspring and patented inertial oscillator, making it more reliable and more durable. Adding a nice touch, the oscillator can be appreciated through the dial on a side aperture.

ANNIVERSARY 160 by Ulysse Nardin

According to the brand, “the dial, lugs, pushers and steel mid-case are in perfect harmony.” While I do like the colourway of this watch, harmony might not be the right word simply because there’s too much happening on the dial. Perhaps I’m being a bit tough, but since this watch is meant to have a “classic” look, I would have preferred a little bit more simplicity with the dial layout.

The titanium and steel watch is robust, with wide lugs, bulky pushers and a relatively large 44mm case. That makes the watch – which is attached to a $28,000 price tag - stand out boldly. To me, it looks more like an all-around wristwatch than a classic dress watch in the typical sense, and maybe that’s not such a bad thing.