ut make no mistake, the most beautiful watches – and the most timeless – are without a doubt those which vanish discreetly behind their assigned function: that of telling the time as accurately, simply, clearly and legibly as possible. Of being the purest possible expression of their function.
Following this adage, a watch is round (because the needle describes a circle), devoid of any superfluous decoration and gets straight to the point. Every detail – if detail there be – has a meaning, a defined function, and is as discreet yet as visible as possible. Purity is a form of politeness. A watch is not there to be seen, but to inform, discreetly and elegantly.

Purity is a form of politeness. A watch is not there to be seen, but to inform, discreetly and elegantly.

But this discretion is what makes it so beautiful and timeless. Its raison d’être is to blend into the background while telling the time for as long as we desire. Consequently, you can’t help but see it.

HERMÈS SLIM GMT

A simple description suffices: an ultra-thin case just 9.48mm thick; an understated display on a slate-grey dial with a slender typeface; a silvered GMT counter with its cluster of figures; fine, sandblasted or blue-lacquered baton hands; and perfect legibility. Consistent with this, the interior houses an ultra-thin manufacture movement by Hermès – the H1950, 2.6mm thick – over which lies an ultra-thin GMT module just 1.4mm thick and developed exclusively for Hermès by Agenhor. Two time zones and two day/night indicators, showing the home and the local time, are displayed. Adjusting it is simple and fun; just press the pusher. “Fun” – a rare and simple quality peculiar to Hermès. From 10,000 to 20,000$

LAURENT FERRIER MINUTE REPEATER

A non-water-resistant case and gongs in steel to supply the Minute Repeater with the fullest sonority and most crystalline tones; chimes that last up to 17 seconds; a power reserve of 80 hours and a minimalist display pared down to the essential: hours, minutes and a small-seconds subdial, all incomparably legible on a dial in satin-brushed red gold with a silvered and azure seconds hand. Only the essential. From 200,000 to 500,000$

LAURENT FERRIER GALET BLACK REGULATOR

We couldn’t resist the temptation to show two watches by Laurent Ferrier who, where “purity” is concerned, is forcefully and evidently making a statement of style, in the noblest sense of the term. The regulator display was developed for wholly practical reasons: to provide the most accurate reference time to which all watchmakers at work could regulate their watches. Hence the separation of the respective displays of the hour, minute and second. A programme which the Galet Black Regulator fulfils to perfection. From 20,000 to 50,000$

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966

A slender overall line, ultra-thin case, smoked-grey dial, domed, polished leaf-type hands, baton-type appliqué indices or Roman numerals, 40mm or 36mm by 8.9mm or 9.01mm: “Simplicity is the supreme sophistication”, said Leonardo da Vinci. From 10,000 to 20,000$

NOMOS GLASHÜTTE AHOI NEOMATIK SIGNALWEISS

Every detail counts. Since form follows function, the form here follows that of the 3.2mm automatic calibre, which is expressed on a dial of immaculate white with red markers and blue hands coated with Luminova. Water-resistant down to 200m, with a “fast-drying” light grey textile strap. What’s not to like. From 3,000 to 5,000$

BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC

Sedate, simple, elegant, modestly dimensioned (40mm) and affordable, the Clifton Baumatic soberly presents three hands and a date aperture, indices in the shape of slender arrows and an excellent power reserve of five days, courtesy of its calibre with a silicon escapement custom-developed by the Val Fleurier manufacture, which is part of the Richemont group. How to surprise with simplicity. From 1,000 to 3000$

SEIKO CREDOR SPRING DRIVE EICHI

Simplicity of design, exquisite finishing of the movement, an innovative torque return system and a hand-painted, pure white porcelain dial. “Eichi”, wisdom in Japanese, reflects the fusion of traditional Japanese watchmaking skills with the highest and most advanced Spring Drive technology. From the design of every component to the hand-painting on the dial, Eichi is made by elite watchmakers at the Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri in central Japan. Japanese at its best. From 20,000 to 50,000$

All mentioned prices are indicative and correspond to price segment.

TO READ MORE
Europa Star Watch Curator ’18 is a selection of 147 watches classified under 13 specific trends:
Tourbillons - Globes - Sun, Moon & Stars - Purity - Open-worked - Skulls - Sport - Tough - New displays - Barocco - Vintage & Neo-vintage - Connected - Calibres.