Jacob & Co. has always been known for pushing the envelope of the possible, whether in jewellery or in watchmaking. Some of the wildest watches and complications have come from Jacob & Co., using different movement developers, proving that the American firm is not afraid to try new things and to think “out of the box.”
In order to solidify this direction for its timepieces, Jacob & Co. has entered into an exclusive arrangement with movement designer and fabricator Studio 7h38, with offices in the Vaumarcus Castle in Switzerland.
“We joined forces with Studio 7h38 and their chief watchmaker Luca Soprana, relying on their engineering expertise,” says Jacob Arabo, founder and chairman of Jacob & Co. “They are the new breed of watch calibre conceptors who allow creators like me to materialize technical and mechanical dreams. We share the same values: passion and excellence! With us there is no limit to creativity. This is what built my success: to do things differently. I am really proud of my first multiple timezoners, they are, to this day, genuinely original. At last year’s BaselWorld we launched the EPIC SF24 - developed with Studio 7h38 - which won us indisputable recognition by both the industry and our clients. And now we continue with the Astronomia Tourbillon.”
- Astronomia Tourbillon by Jacob & Co.
In most tourbillons, the cage rotates at a fixed rate (usually one complete turn in 60 seconds), but Jacob’s new timepiece features a three-axis tourbillon, fixed on one side only – the tourbillon cage rotates once every 60 seconds, but also revolves vertically once every five minutes. At the same time, the tourbillon, a round one carat round diamond, a miniature gold and enamel globe and the time display (with 12 o’clock always at the top, thanks to a specially-designed differential) is on an orbiting display with four satellites that rotates once every 20 minutes. In addition, the diamond and the globe each rotate once every 60 seconds.
With all these elements turning and spinning, above a stunning aventurine foundation, the display of the watch will never be the same each time the wearer looks at it.
The Astronomia Tourbillon will be manufactured at Studio 7h38 in the time-honoured Swiss way, with the key components made and finished by hand, then hand-assembled and regulated. Only nine pieces will be made of the Astronomia Tourbillon, and, as each watch is made by hand, to order, they are all de facto unique pieces and offer a number of opportunities for customization and individualization.
“The Astronomia Tourbillon is a mechanical marvel that transports you above time, as if above Earth,” Arabo says. “It is the materialization of a mechanical dream of mine: a celestial timepiece like no other. The Astronomia Tourbillon is the illustration of my free spirit associated with Swiss mechanical forté.”
Calibre: Exclusive Jacob&Co manual winding JCEM01 Diameter: 40mm / Height: 15.9 mm / Components: 235 / Power Reserve: 72 hours / Frequency: 18,800 vibrations/hour (2.5 Hz) / Jewels: 42 / System: Gravitational orbital tourbillon / Finishing: Plate and bridges - polished and bevelled by hand, drawn flanks, circular graining, polished sinks, hand-polished screws; barrel - circular graining; pinions - wood grinding-wheel polished; balance spring: Philips curve; PE 3000.
Diameter: 47mm / Thickness: 18mm / Material: 18-ct. rose gold and diamond microparticle polycarbonate fibre / Case back: 18-ct. rose gold / Bows: Winding and time-setting via 18-ct. rose gold lift-out rotating “bows” on case back / Skylayer front case: Aventurine goldfluss and 18-ct. rose gold / Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment / Water resistance: 30m (ISO 2281)
Dial & hands
Dial: Hand-engraved, lacquered indexes, diamond finish / Hands: Hand-finished gunned blue
Strap & Clasp
Alligator 18-ct. rose gold folding buckle
Limited edition: 9 pieces
Source: Europa Star April - May 2014 Magazine Issue