Goldpfeil Jumping Hours by Vincent Calabrese

Vincent Calabrese has chosen to open up large windows in a broad, thick, solid gold case, whose perfectly rounded shape, fluted caseband and symmetrical lugs are reminiscent of the 1920s style. Given that such a powerful design was bound to lead directly to essentials, the indications are kept to a minimum: jumping hours at 12 o’clock and the date just opposite. Pointing to the minutes at the centre of the most sparing dial imaginable, the emblematic blue Goldpfeil arrow makes a strikingly majestic contrast, matching the colour of the leather strap. Turning the watch over, the brand name appears engraved in relief on the oscillating weight that is visible through the sapphire crystal.

Nonetheless, such simplicity is deceptive, and the mechanism that makes it possible conceals ingenious devices known only to the craftsman himself. The two rotating discs for the hour and date interfere neither with each other nor with the minute mechanism. This allows the hours to jump extremely quickly from one to the next, at midnight, perfectly synchronised with the date change.