TRENDS & COLOURS - The Rose Golden age

TRENDS & COLOURS - The Rose Golden age
Europa Star WorldWatchWeb, 24 May 2017    Español

Just when we thought rose gold could not saturate the luxury market any further, rose gold dials are making something of a statement in gentlemen’s fine watches.


As a trend, the rise of rose gold is neither new nor terribly exciting. It could be dismissed as a spillover effect from the high-end jewellery market, where it was driven by consumer demand. What’s fascinating in this ‘Rose Golden Age’ is how the very feminine pink blush metal has infiltrated its way into bulky complication watches, often in unfortunate and somewhat unpleasing styles. That said, not all is doom and gloom. The Rose Golden Age has also given birth to some refreshingly stylish minimalist heritage timepieces.

VENTURER TOURBILLON DUAL TIME by H. Moser & Cie + Rose gold cufflinks set by Jacob & Co.
VENTURER TOURBILLON DUAL TIME by H. Moser & Cie + Rose gold cufflinks set by Jacob & Co.

One such powerful piece that brings to the limelight how the metal adds strength to the style is the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time by H. Moser & Cie, with the HMC 802 automatic movement, seen at Salon QP. We are told it is unique both for the dual time function, which can be hidden when not in use, and the Moser minute tourbillon module below an open-worked bridge. But what makes it stylish is the delicate finishing of the dial. Encased in red gold with a matching dial in fumé red gold with a sunburst pattern, this Venturer tourbillon dual time has a brown alligator strap and a red gold folding clasp. Yes sir, the brand has risen from the rose and ventured deeper into red. Quite successfully, as this model stands triumphant in comparison to other similar models in white gold. If you agree, don’t stop with the Venturer. Jacob & Co has the perfect rose gold cufflinks set with wavy rose background to match the openworked bridge of the watch.

One inevitably asks whether the rise of women as watch consumers has contributed to this Rose Golden Age? Or the growth of the Asian market? Potentially both. Maybe neither.

Women are being seduced by targeted rose gold rarities of their own. One of the most successful in terms of style is the Moon Abstraction by Montres De Witt. With its pure lines and slender Napoleonic columns, the watch’s rose gold case highlights the delicate refinement of the dial. No paint is used, the dials are crafted from powdered pigments and 60 diamonds adorn the bezel, adding brilliance to this celestial design, crafted from powdered precious stones. If this watch soothes your eye, Bulgari has just the rings to match in their MVSA collection – a simpler pink gold with blue topaz or a larger style with tanzanite and mother-of-pearl.

Now, at the risk of raising a few eyebrows, the saturation of the luxury watch market with complications and bulky sizes may have induced this Rose Golden Age in men’s watches and is possibly taking us back into the lane of heritage minimalism. Have we entered an era when brands are infusing femininity into bulky masculine fine timepieces? Could feminine minimalism be the next luxury trend for boys’ toys?

WATCH AUCTIONS - Premium and everything else
24 May 2017

Features - WATCH AUCTIONS - Premium and everything else

’Everything beautiful is expensive’: such could be the slogan for the current collector watch market. But beyond the record prices for exceptional lots at auction, a division is clearly emerging in (...)
EXTRAORDINARY WATCHES - Innovation is the best response to the crisis
24 May 2017

Features - EXTRAORDINARY WATCHES - Innovation is the best response to the crisis

The existential crisis currently gripping the watch industry is no reason to throw in the towel. On the contrary, the best response to the crisis is surely to innovate! Slashing prices is not the (...)
INDUSTRY - Gem-setting techniques
24 May 2017

Watch Knowledge - INDUSTRY - Gem-setting techniques

The art of jewellery developed in France in the 17th century. At that time, goldsmiths and silversmiths were tasked with enhancing the brilliance of cut precious stones by setting them on (...)
Getting back onto YOUNG PEOPLE's wrists
24 May 2017

Features - Getting back onto YOUNG PEOPLE’s wrists

For the past fifty years, the only so-called ‘watches’ worn by young people have been garish, interchangeable, gimmicky things; accessories rather than real watches. That’s because young people’s (...)
…Watchwords / THE PERFECT NAME for a watch brand
24 May 2017

Editorials - …Watchwords / THE PERFECT NAME for a watch brand

Remember all those hours you spent as a kid, trying to think up the coolest name for a band, when you could barely strum three chords together? Now try naming a watch brand. Our columnist and (...)
A LAST WORD TO START - “The danger is not the humanisation of robots but the robotisation of humans”
22 March 2017

Editorials - A LAST WORD TO START - “The danger is not the humanisation of robots but the robotisation of humans”

The German futurologist Gerd Leonhard was invited to the 8th Haute Horlogerie Forum last autumn. He had one piece of advice to give to young people looking for a future career path: choose (...)
SMARTWATCHES - Focus on smartwatches from A to Z
1 December 2016

Features - SMARTWATCHES - Focus on smartwatches from A to Z

Smartwatches are garnering little enthusiasm from Swiss companies, to say the least. Brands feel ‘forced’ to get involved, without any real appetite to do so (apart from the enthusiasm shown by TAG (...)
1 December 2016

Features - Review of SMARTWATCHES

Twenty-eight brands under review, from A to Z

Europa Star, the World’s Most influential Watch Magazine, is the premier provider of international watch industry news and information. For 89 years, we have supplied watch retailers, watch distributors, watch designers, watch agents and watch manufacturers with news from the international watch industry. Our web and print publications are of interest to the specialized watch trade and the world’s most knowledgeable aficionados, watch collectors and consumers. Our magazines and websites are available in several different languages, making them accessible to all international markets and an essential tool for anyone working in the watch business and all those passionate about watches.

© 2017 Europa Star - All rights reserved.