RETURN TO SIMPLICITY - Simplicity is a Complex Business!
28 August 2014

RETURN TO SIMPLICITY - Simplicity is a Complex Business!

In the quest for the truth about what appears to be a mechanical “back to basics” movement, Europa Star asked a number of watchmakers to help navigate the complex route that leads to simplicity. With the participation of Denis Flageollet (De Bethune), François-Paul Journe (FPJ), Edouard Meylan (H. Moser & Cie), Luc Perramond (La Montre Hermès), Sandro Reginelli (Maurice Lacroix) and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor).
MECHANICAL - Who will succeed ETA?
28 August 2014

MECHANICAL - Who will succeed ETA?

From 2020, Swatch Group will be allowed to stop supplying third party clients with ETA movements. For Sellita and Soprod, the two biggest alternative manufacturers of entry-level and mid-range Swiss made calibres, the stakes are high. Probing the heart of Swiss watches.
MECHANICAL - Are IN-HOUSE MOVEMENTS Important?
28 August 2014

MECHANICAL - Are IN-HOUSE MOVEMENTS Important?

Lately, in-house movements are all the rage. Since the Swatch Group/ETA started talking about limiting supply, many watch companies have developed their own movements, making them in-house. Due to the high investment needed for movement development and the relatively small volume, in-house movements necessitate a premium in price. So, given the increase in price, are in-house movements important? Well, it depends on who you ask…
MECHANICAL - Unlocking ALTERNATIVE ESCAPEMENTS
28 August 2014

MECHANICAL - Unlocking ALTERNATIVE ESCAPEMENTS

In the history of horology more effort has been devoted to the escapement than to any other functional part of a timepiece. In the 18th century, when most of the current systems were invented, the escapement was not only seen as fundamental, it was also a matter of prestige. Breguet, Graham and Leroy were among those who made it a special study in the hope of solving most of the problems of reliability and accuracy that plagued timepieces of the era, including marine chronometers. As the interface between the going train and the regulating organ, the escapement is where force and frequency intersect in a complex interaction. Improving its efficiency has repercussions on the entire mechanism, its power reserve, its precision, life span and prestige.
EXCLUSIVE - JACOB & CO celebrates new movement development partnership with the Astronomia Tourbillon
26 March 2014

EXCLUSIVE - JACOB & CO celebrates new movement development partnership with the Astronomia Tourbillon

Jacob & Co. has always been known for pushing the envelope of the possible, whether in jewellery or in watchmaking. Some of the wildest watches and complications have come from Jacob & Co., using different movement developers, proving that the American firm is not afraid to try new things and to think “out of the box.”
AMERICAN SPIRIT - The home of industrialized watch production is back at it - in many forms
26 March 2014

AMERICAN SPIRIT - The home of industrialized watch production is back at it - in many forms

In the 1800s and 1900s, America was a pioneer in watchmaking, developing affordable watches for the masses (the famous “dollar” watches), creating supremely accurate timepieces for the railroads, pushing boundaries of design and the use of innovative materials and much more. Then, the Swiss, Japanese and Chinese kind of took over and the bulk of watch production moved offshore. Today, however, there is a renaissance of sorts going on, with American companies coming to the forefront.
MANUFACTURE - TAG HEUER, an avant-garde production facility
6 January 2014

MANUFACTURE - TAG HEUER, an avant-garde production facility

TAG Heuer’s first initiative in the field of traditional mechanical chronograph movements (we are not talking here about the brand’s concept movements) dates back almost four years with the launch of the Calibre 1887, the result of an exhaustive re-engineering of a Seiko chronograph movement.
STUDIES - Two spotlights turned on to THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY
6 January 2014

STUDIES - Two spotlights turned on to THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY

One after the other, two studies have recently been published that attempt to analyse the Swiss watchmaking industry. Credit Suisse has published its research, entitled “Swiss Watch Industry – Prospects and Challenges”, while consultants Deloitte present a report with a similar title “Challenges and opportunities of the sector”.
Alternative escapements

Alternative escapements

The so-called Swiss lever escapement has enjoyed an uninterrupted rein over mechanical watchmaking ever since it was first invented in 1757 by Thomas Mudge, who succeeded in adapting the classic lever escapement for portable watches.
Strategic ARTISTIC CRAFTS
22 October 2013

Strategic ARTISTIC CRAFTS

Watchmaking was born ornamental. The first wearable watches astonished and were soon taken up by the rich and the powerful. But they were most inaccurate and their value lay less in their use as an instrument and more in their ornamental richness. The artistic crafts and watchmaking have been closely linked ever since. For the past few years, the artistic crafts have made a big comeback, to such an extent that at the SIHH and BaselWorld the number of brands presenting their “Métiers d’Art” collections has increased considerably. Mastering this artisanal know-how has become a strategic element. In a special dossier in Europa Star 05/2013 we take a closer look at the work of these artisans.
The International Chronometry Competition
10 October 2013

The International Chronometry Competition

Held under the auspices of the Watchmaking Museum at the Chateau des Monts in Le Locle, the International Chronometry Competition is held every two years and is open both to companies (brands, movement manufacturers and independents) and schools.
Maurice Lacroix's wonder alloy: Powerlite® video
3 October 2013

Maurice Lacroix’s wonder alloy: Powerlite®

The development of the new Powerlite® alloy by Maurice Lacroix started out with three questions about watch cases: How to make them lighter, how to make them less sensitive to shocks and how to colour them without the slightest scratch spoiling the effect.
New mechanical calibres
16 May 2013

New mechanical calibres

In this article we introduce three new calibres presented in early 2013 by Eterna, Julien Coudray and Vulcain.
The most expensive watches
5 October 2012

The most expensive watches

The most expensive watches in the world change on a regular basis as brand’s vie for the PR mileage that can be earned from claiming the crown for the most excess, whether it is through using precious stones of jaw-dropping sizes or the most bewildering assortment of complications.
Putting the seal on quality
27 August 2012

Putting the seal on quality

What is the best way to judge or to affirm the quality of a timepiece? The term “Swiss Made” hardly seems sufficient, since it merely establishes that at least 50 per cent of the value of the components in the movement is of Swiss origin and that the movement was assembled and inspected in Switzerland. But what about the rest of the watch?

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