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SIHH day 2: Panerai and Roger Dubuis

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January 2012


Today we present the two new flagship models launched at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this week by Officine Panerai and Roger Dubuis, both of which are heavily inspired by the colour black.

Roger Dubuis lays a claim to be one of the few genuine manufactures in the watchmaking industry (the company makes its own hairsprings and escapements in-house). It also certifies 100 per cent of its production with the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Hallmark) and recently produced a special limited-edition of eight models to celebrate the 125th anniversary of this prestigious seal. (See our separate article on Roger Dubuis for more information.)

This week the brand launched an altogether sportier piece called Pulsion. The name is an allusion to the quickening of one’s heartbeat from the adrenaline of excitement. Although the movement used in this new collection is the same RD 680 column-wheel chronograph used in the Monégasque collection launched last year, the watch’s design is more rugged and is clearly intended to appeal to a more “outdoorsy” clientele.

SIHH day 2: Panerai and Roger Dubuis
The Roger Dubuis Pulsion models: Flying Tourbillon Skeleton (left) and Chronograph (right)

The distinguishing feature of this new model is its semi-open dial, which reveals parts of the movement beneath, on to which the dominant three-dimensional Arabic numerals 12 and 6 have been applied directly. It is also fitted with a new black rubber strap that is integrated into the case.

The Pulsion is available as a chronograph in titanium, black DLC titanium and red gold, with a sublime Flying Tourbillon Skeleton model in black DLC titanium as the top of the range.

Continuing the black theme, the star novelty from Panerai this year is the 1950 Luminor Tuttonero, which, as its Italian name suggests, is finished entirely in black. It has a matt black ceramic case and is the first Panerai watch with a ceramic bracelet, also in matt black. As the ultimate finishing touch, a special black coating that is a mere 2 microns thick has been applied to the P. 9001/B movement by electroplating.

SIHH day 2: Panerai and Roger Dubuis
The Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica “Tuttonero”

The P. 9001/B movement has a three-day power reserve (visible on a power reserve indicator on the back of the movement), small seconds dial at 9 o’clock and a central GMT hand. The 44mm Tuttonero is also available with the standard P. 9001 movement without the black coating (but which is visible through a smoked sapphire crystal case back to continue the dark theme) and a Panerai personalised brown leather strap.