Truly extraordinary collections of watches appear infrequently at auction. With so many of the most important watches already placed in private collections, it is increasingly difficult to find quality, rarity and style. With this in mind, the special sale of watches to be offered at Sotheby's Geneva on May 13th 2002 promises to be a landmark occasion in the history of watch auctions. The collection, comprising almost 69 exceptional pieces - including 40 lots by Patek Philippe -, spans most of the 20th Century from 1912 until 1995.

The star lot, a stunning platinum triple calendar Patek Philippe Calatrava wristwatch, made in 1929 and sold in 1937, echoes the enduring quality of this famous Swiss manufacturer throughout the 20th century (lot 25 / estimate on request). Bearing a silvered dial with the highly unusual arrangement of moonphase aperture at 12 and a pink gilt chapter ring, its aesthetic charm masks the mechanical masterpiece beneath. So famous and important is this watch that it appears in every major book written about Patek Philippe.

Pre-dating this watch by a year is a 1928 Patek Philippe single button chronograph in one of the earliest wristwatch case designs the company produced, the so-called Officer case (lot 13 / estimate: SFr. 550'000 - 750'000 / $400'000-600'000). With a champagne dial, it is one of the rarest chronographs to be offered at auction.

Also from 1928 is a hunting cased two-colour gold wristwatch by Patek Philippe (lot 35 / estimate: SFr 250'000 - 300'000 / $180'000-220'000). This watch, believed to be unique, and with a hinged cover over the dial, displays one of the solutions early wristwatch manufacturers found to produce a sports watch; the hunting cased pocket watch was, of course, commonly found before this time.

Shaped watches feature strongly in the collection. In looking at the style of these wristwatches, one can see the influences of architecture, interior design and nature itself. You can find the case of one wristwatch by Patek Philippe imitating the base of the Eiffel Tower, the model (ref. 2441, circa 1950) has in fact come to be known as the “Eiffel Tower” (lot 29 / estimate: SFr 55'000 - 75'000 / $40'000-60'000). Also signed by Patek Philippe is a wristwatch so heavily faceted that it is undeniably reminiscent of the Swiss mountains (lot 24 / estimate: SFr 35'000 - 50'000 / $25'000-35'000).

A group of Gondolo Patek Philippe wristwatches, nearly a complete set, are to be offered in varying styles all with their trademark oversized cases (lots 5 to 8 / estimates ranging from SFr 35'000 to 75'000 /$25'000 to 60'000). These provide a unique opportunity to add an important part of Patek Philippe history to any collection.

The newest watch in the collection, a Patek Philippe ref. 5016, circa 1995, perpetual calendar minute repeating tourbillon, one of the most mechanically complicated wristwatches ever made, is testament to man's continuing fascination with controlling time (lot 40 estimate: SFr 450'000 - 500'000 / $300'000-350'000). Modern as it is, this timepiece would have been unthinkable without the continual innovation and exceptional talent of watchmakers, dial makers and case makers throughout modern history.

Cartier, one of the icons of 20th Century fashion is represented by a variety of interesting pieces from Art Deco to the 1980s. Highlights include two single button chronographs one of which, in a circular case and carrying an enamel dial, dates to 1927 (lot 46 / estimate: SFr 140'000 - 200'000 / $100'000-150'000).

Reversing cases of differing designs and elegant dress watches are here together with a fantastically complicated 1926 platinum perpetual calendar minute repeating watch; the case of this watch is so beautifully made that all necessary mechanical adjusters are concealed entirely from sight - (lot 56 / estimate:SFr 140'000 - 200'000 / $100'000-150'000). This piece is an illustration of the classic styling that has made Cartier such a desirable name amongst watch enthusiasts.

Rolex brings history sharply into focus with a watch (made in only two examples) reputedly commissioned for the first President or for the Prime Minister of India. With a cloisonné enamel dial bearing a map of India, the watch carries the date of the first Indian Republic Day - January 26, 1950 (lot 69 / estimate: SFr 100'000 - 150'000 / $75'000-100'000). Later, it was reported that Prime Minister Nehru gave the watch to the adventurer Tenzing Norgay to commemorate his successful ascent of Mount Everest with Edmund Hillary in 1953.

Vacheron & Constantin are represented by a fabulous two colour gold rectangular heavily faceted wristwatch circa 1940 (lot 61 / estimate: SFr 20'000 - 30'000 / $15'000-20'000), two chronographs (lots 62 and 63 / estimate: each SFr 20'000 - 30'000 / $15'000-20'000) and a rare minute repeating wristwatch circa 1950 (lot 64 estimate: SFr 140'000 - 200'000 / $100'000-150'000).

A further minute repeating wristwatch by Audemars Piguet is included in a platinum cushion form case and dates to circa 1930 (lot 65 / estimate: SFr 120'000 - 170'000 / $80'000-120'000).

We hope that these watches, put together with great care, will provide enthusiasts with an excellent opportunity to enhance their collections and, for first time buyers, the chance to own an exceptional 20th century timepiece.


EXHIBITION :
Geneva, Beau-Rivage Hotel
Friday 9, Saturday 10, Sunday 11 and Monday 12 May 2003 : from 10.00am to 6.00pm
Tuesday 13 May 2003 : from 10.00am to 4.00pm


SALE :
Geneva, Beau-Rivage Hotel
IMPORTANT WATCHES AND WRISTWATCHES
Monday 12 May 2003 at 10.00am (lots 101 to 244) and 12.00am (lots 245 to 382)

A COLLECTION OF 69 EXCEPTIONAL 20TH CENTURY WATCHES
Tuesday 13 May 2003 at 7.00pm


www.sothebys.com