n 1995, the Japanese brand Citizen launched a series of models aptly called “The CITIZEN”. Their design and engineering was based on four ideals reflecting the watchmaker’s pursuit of the “essence” of the watch: ideal accuracy, ideal quality, ideal design, and reliability. The latest addition in this line, equipped with an in-house mechanical movement developed with Swiss affiliate company La Joux-Perret, goes one step further in this quest with its high accuracy, high quality, and aesthetic appeal.
In 2012, La Joux-Perret was integrated into the Citizen Watch Group with a view to developing new mechanical watches. The new Cal. 0200 movement was produced through the close collaboration and technical exchange made possible by this merger. Citizen carries out all design and assembly in-house, and this time, was also able to make the most of the wide range of decorative finishing techniques utilized by La Joux- Perret. This new automatic mechanical movement was created as an innovative fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking cultures.
“The new automatic mechanical movement was created as an innovative fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking cultures.”
- The newly-developed in-house Caliber 0200 mechanical movement now equips the “CITIZEN” line.
Citizen’s predecessor, the Shokosha Watch Research Institute, was established in 1918 with the aim of producing quality watches to match the prestigious timepieces that were being imported into Japan at the time. After six years of perseverance, the first-ever Citizen watch - the Caliber 16 pocket watch - was born, combining both aesthetic appeal and practicality. In the same way, the new Cal. 0200 also combines a high level of accuracy and aesthetic appeal.
Using the latest in advanced watchmaking technologies, this movement was designed to exceed the Chronometer standard (ISO 3159) benchmark for timekeeping accuracy, achieving an average daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds. The movement also features a free-sprung balance wheel, making it highly shock resistant as well as resistant to wear over time. Watches with free-sprung balance wheels are known for their ability to maintain stability of rate over time. The layout showcases the layered wheels of the movement and shows each of the watch components to advantage. Every component is finished to the highest of standards, enhancing the overall beauty of the movement.
“This movement was designed to exceed the Chronometer standard (ISO 3159) benchmark for timekeeping accuracy, achieving an average daily accuracy of -3 to +5 seconds.”
A free sprung-balance wheel is used to achieve high timekeeping accuracy and ensure the stability of rate over time. But the components needed to achieve this level of accuracy require an extremely high level of precision during manufacturing. Citizen developed a completely new manufacturing process for the balance wheel to ensure the necessary precision during processing and the beauty of the finished product. The LIGA fabrication process was used for the escapement to achieve superior precision. This movement is the product of CITIZEN’s knowledge and know-how acquired from decades of experience producing components for Eco-Drive movements.
Before attaching the bracelet, completed watches undergo rigorous in-house testing over a total of 17 days to ensure superior performance. Testing is carried out under various conditions, including testing at six positions and three temperature levels. A Certificate of Compliance is included with each watch to certify that it has met all of Citizen’s extremely high standards.
The design of the Cal. 0200 movement showcases the aesthetic appeal and exceptional finishing of each component. The decorative finishing of all gear train components including the oscillating weight, the main plate, and the bridges, is made possible thanks to the combined know-how and experience of Citizen and La Joux-Perret.
- Citizen developed a completely new manufacturing process for the balance wheel to ensure the precision and aesthetic appeal of the finished product.
The bridges have a satinage finish comprised of a multitude of hairlines that create a delicate lustre. The detailed diamond-cut finish on the edges also provide a striking contrast of finishes, producing depth and visual appeal.
The watch has a bold, clean look. The eye-catching lugless case creates a distinctive silhouette and the finishing makes the most of the solid stainless steel material, with a striking contrast between the hairline and mirror finishes. When worn, the case and bracelet capture the light beautifully, producing an elegant lustre and giving the watch an unmistakable presence on the wrist.
The black dial of the NC0200-90E uses electroforming to create a distinctive sand-ripple pattern. The shadows created by the unique texture produce fascinating yet subtle colour changes on the monotone dial.
The dial also features the Eagle Mark depicting an eagle with its wings spread wide. With their extraordinarily powerful eyesight, eagles can spot their prey from as far as 1,000 metres away. The eagle is thus a symbol of foresight and action based on a clear vision of the future. Since ancient times, the eagle has also worked in close partnership with humans. This mark symbolizes the two enduring commitments of The CITIZEN watches: to always look ahead and pursue the ideal, and to become an integral part of users’ lives.
The CITIZEN / Mechanical model
Model NC0200-90E Launch Early Autumn 2021 Case / Band Stainless Glass Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating Case diameter / thickness 40.0mm / 10.9mm Specifications Cal.0200/ Automatic & Manual winding / Accuracy of average -3 to +5sec per day / Running time of approx. 60 hours when fully wound/ Frequency: 28,800 vph / 26 jewels /W.R. 5 BAR / Transparent case back / Cal.0200 Certificate of Compliance included
Price (proj.): US$6,000