aunched in 1932 as the Ref. 96 (the manufacture’s first model to have a reference number), the Calatrava established itself as the quintessence of the classic round wristwatch. Reflecting the minimalistic Bauhaus principle (form follows function), it has been repeatedly reinterpreted in numerous versions for both ladies and men.
Patek Philippe has endowed this new Calatrava “Clous de Paris” with fresh elan by updating its iconic design in a very contemporary manner. The Ref. 6119 distinguishes itself mainly with the slightly larger diameter of 39 mm, reflecting the changing preferences of our era.
Returning to the roots of the Calatrava design vocabulary, applied faceted “obus” markers in 18K gold (with double markers at 12 o’clock) emphasise the timelessly sleek look of the dial with its larger diameter. The round bezel is decorated with a guilloché hobnail pattern and exhibits a slightly wider chamfered profile as well as a thin, polished fillet that frames the sapphire box crystal.
- Patek Philippe’s most contemporary Calatrava comes in two versions: the Ref. 6119R-001 (pictured here) combines a rose-gold case with a silvery grained dial as well as applied hour markers and hands in rose gold. The Ref. 6119G-001 in white gold subtly plays with light on a charcoal gray dial with attractive contrasts – a vertical satin finish interrupted by the snailed subsidiary seconds dial.
A totally new manually wound movement equips the Ref. 6119 Calatrava “Clous de Paris”. As Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, states: “For true enthusiasts, manual calibres retain a special appeal and we still have many customers who appreciate them. (...) By turning the crown, you bring your watch to life. Many people still like to do this every morning – and I understand them.”
The new 30-255 PS calibre has an internal case diameter of 30.4 mm (overall diameter 31 mm). To achieve a height of just 2.55 mm, the engineers and designers implemented several ingenious solutions, among them a central pinion without a wheel plate that meshes with the central wheel via an intermediate wheel, as well as a ratchet wheel and crown located beneath the barrel bridge instead of above it. The 30-255 PS calibre is exceptionally robust and powerful, delivering a power reserve of 65 hours or nearly three days.
A special feature of the movement is its two mainspring barrels in a parallel arrangement. This solution can withstand maximum force despite the slender architecture and allows the deployment of a balance with twice the moment of inertia of 10 mg.cm2. A stop seconds feature that blocks the balance when the crown is pulled makes it possible to set the time with one-second accuracy.