hen was the launch date of the Tropic-Proof design by Alpina? That was the first question on the table. The exact date is hard to pin down; concepts such as collections, ranges, product lines and inventory were much more loosely defined in those days.

History records an official launch in 1968, but there is evidence of the ‘Tropic-Proof’ name being used right from the early 1960s; careful analysis of serial numbers 760XXX-809XXX suggests that production first started in 1965.   ‘Tropic-Proof’ referred to a certain type of watch construction and was characterised first and foremost by a case marked with the initials ‘FB’ for François Borgel. In the early twentieth century, Borgel was a leading Geneva casemaker.

Like many other brands, Alpina commissioned the firm to make their toughest cases and more especially those with screw-down casebacks. The Tropic-Proof designation also called for the use of some of the finest Swiss calibres, such as Alpina’s hand-wound 598R movement.

The Tropic-Proof is a quintessential Alpina from the mid-1960s that embodies the adventurer’s watch. Featuring an ultra-robust case by master casemaker François Borgel, and a Swiss Made movement, it paved the way for the Alpina watches of today. Now, the brand has produced the most faithful of tributes: two versions with, as before, a black or white dial, a 34mm steel case, Dauphine hands and a manual movement, mounted on an Alcantara strap.

Rather than opting to specialise in any one field (such as dive watches), Alpina chose to focus on producing sturdy watches at affordable prices, capable of withstanding tropical climates and suitable for adventurers and globe-trotters. Non-magnetic, waterproof, rustproof and impact-resistant, the Tropic-Proof embodied the Alpina ethos encapsulated in the legendary Alpiner 4 – and as such, was the epitome of the brand’s DNA. 

Vintage Tropic-Proof model by Alpina

The two new versions are the worthy heirs to this horological adventure. They feature a case inspired by the original, in stainless steel with a diameter of 34 millimetres. Similarly, the new non-reflective sapphire crystal retains the characteristic ‘glassbox’ shape, curving down towards the bezel to ensure the dial can be easily viewed from any angle. 

Alpina is offering the same colours as on the legacy dials: black and white. The beating heart of these two unlimited editions is the AL-480 calibre – hand-wound, just as it was in the watch’s first iteration, with a power reserve of 42 hours. A truly faithful reissue!

Price: CHF 1,795

www.alpinawatches.com