xecuted in a fumé effect that ranges from pale silver in the middle to a deep cobalt at its circumference, 蛟 (JIĀO)’s grand feu enamel dial features meticulous hand-hammering (martelé) on its 925 silver dial base.

The unique colour and wide range of shades in the gradient of the dial also pose significant difficulty due to the delicate and unpredictable task of creating exact tone and equally distributed bands of colour throughout these combined enamel layers. Once the desired colour tone is achieved, the dial is then polished into the flat, glossy surface for which grand feu enamel is revered.

The multiple enamel layers on the Ancestra’s inaugural edition result in a visually arresting texture, reminiscent of deep seas. The series draws inspiration from the earliest known depiction of a dragon — the Hongshan culture’s carved jade dragons. Its case and lugs reinterpret these ancient artifacts in the form of elegant, detached lugs that are screwed externally onto the case. The sinuous lugs mirror the curves of the jade dragon, secured with internal screws and intricately engraved, external bolts featuring a traditional Chinese motif.

The 38mm case is constructed from 904L stainless steel, offering a rich contrast of brushed and polished surfaces. Ancestra also marks Atelier Wen’s first venture beyond the Chinese watchmaking ecosystem, housing a heavily customised Pequignet Calibre EPM03. This modern automatic movement boasts a 65-hour power reserve, 21 jewels and chronometer-grade accuracy (-4/+6 seconds per day with an average of +/-2s) that comfortably meets the standards of the Observatoire Chronométrique de Besançon. The movement’s deeply micro-etched main bridge features a poetic re-envisioning of the Chinese manuscript 天问 (Questions to Heaven), attributed to the poet Qu Yuan 屈原 (340–278 BCE). The beautifully finished three-quarter bridge is complemented by a black-polished ratchet return wheel and balance bridge that contrast with the text that surrounds them.

Price: USD 5,850 (sold out)

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