or nearly three centuries, Favre Leuba has built its reputation on robust, functional watchmaking. Founded in 1737, the brand is one of the oldest names in the industry, known historically for pioneering instruments built for explorers and adventurers. Yet despite this long heritage, skeletonization had never been part of its repertoire.

That changes with the Chief Skeleton, the brand’s first fully openworked timepiece. The model follows the recent introduction of the Chief Tourbillon and represents another milestone in Favre Leuba’s evolving mechanical ambitions.

According to Patrik Hoffmann, Chairman of Favre Leuba, the watch reflects a deliberate effort to expand the brand’s technical vocabulary while remaining rooted in its historical identity.

“After our first-ever tourbillon, we show a natural progression today with the Chief Skeleton, our first skeletonized model, inspired by the original Chief case design of the 1970s. These creations honor our heritage while marking significant milestones in our long history as one of the oldest watchmakers,” he explains.

At the centre of the watch is the Chief case, whose distinctive cushion-shaped architecture draws directly from Favre Leuba designs of the 1970s. Measuring 40 mm in diameter, the case combines brushed and polished surfaces, creating a play of textures that amplifies the sculptural presence of the watch.

The construction is deliberately balanced: robust enough to reflect the brand’s tool-watch DNA, yet refined enough to frame the movement within. A curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating enhances the view into the openworked calibre, while a sapphire caseback extends that transparency from the reverse side.

Despite the architectural complexity of the movement, the watch maintains relatively restrained proportions, with a thickness of 11.76 mm and water resistance rated to 10 ATM.

The Chief Skeleton is powered by a specially developed automatic movement created in collaboration with AMT, Sellita’s high-end manufacturing arm. Rather than skeletonizing an existing calibre, the movement was conceived from the outset as an openworked construction. Two versions exist: FLS01, featuring gold-toned bridges, and FLS02, finished in anthracite with black chrome treatment.

The architecture unfolds vertically, with a semi-exposed mainspring barrel positioned at 12 o’clock and the balance wheel placed at 6 o’clock, creating a visual symmetry across the dial. A distinctive horizontal-brushed balance bridge, exclusive to Favre Leuba, anchors the lower portion of the movement.

Finishing plays a central role in the watch’s character. The bridges combine snailing (colimaçon), satin brushing and sandblasted textures, producing a layered effect that shifts with changing light. Through the openworked structure, wheels, gears and structural bridges form a dynamic mechanical landscape.

Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), the movement delivers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. A skeletonized rotor, decorated with sunray brushing and engraved with the Favre Leuba name, winds the movement automatically. On the DLC version, the rotor receives a matching dark treatment, creating a cohesive monochrome aesthetic.

Skeletonized watches often walk a fine line between visual spectacle and readability. Favre Leuba addresses this by framing the movement with a coloured minute track and clearly defined markers. The watch features applied rhodium-plated indexes and hands filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1, emitting a blue glow in low light. Against the layered mechanical backdrop, the luminous elements ensure the time remains easy to read.

At the same time, the open architecture reduces unnecessary material within the movement, subtly lowering weight while emphasizing the transparency of the mechanical construction.

The Chief Skeleton is available in two main configurations.

The stainless steel version, paired with the gold-finished movement, is offered with green, blue or black minute tracks, each matched with an integrated FKM rubber strap in the same colour.

The black DLC-coated steel version, housing the anthracite movement, expands the palette with green, blue, black or ice-blue minute tracks, reinforcing its contemporary, monochrome aesthetic. Both variants feature an integrated quick-change strap system, allowing straps to be swapped easily without tools.

With the Chief Skeleton, Favre Leuba enters the world of skeletonized watchmaking while staying true to its design DNA. The watch combines the architectural clarity of an openworked movement with the robust geometry of the Chief case, creating a timepiece that feels both contemporary and rooted in the brand’s heritage.

At CHF 3,450 for the steel version and CHF 3,550 for the DLC model, the Chief Skeleton also positions itself as an accessible entry point into modern skeletonized watchmaking - delivered by one of the oldest names in Swiss horology.