There is always something happening in the French watch industry. If it never stops innovating, it is because, firstly, the gloomy economic situation has caused the manufacturers to go on the offensive. Secondly, it is because these same manufacturers, at least those situated in the lower to centre mid-range of the market, have understood what gives them their strength, namely their creativity and their reactivity. They are thus putting the accent on these qualities. Lastly, French watchmakers are strengthening their capacities in order to adapt, as quickly as possible, to the latest fashion trends.
“I know that every year, we have a tendency to say the same things. But these are really the elements that will allow us to make a difference,” says Patrice Besnard, Director of the Chambre française de l’horlogerie et des mictotechniques (French Association of watchmaking and microtechniques).“Today, the market remains extremely difficult. In terms of image, we cannot compete with the large groups, which are in a much more powerful position to get their message across. Also we cannot compete with those manufacturers who work in the low-end of the market, with their low costs. This is why we are developing other strategies and why we are emphasizing our originality.”
As we approach press time, Patrice Besnard did not yet have the statistics for 2003. However, for the overall sector, he predicts a small decrease in turnover in relation to 2002. In other words, the results are not catastrophic. So, what is the outlook for 2004ı “Rather positive,” answers Besnard. In 2003, there was clearly a de-stocking on the part of manufacturers. This leaves space for many projects and new products this year.”
In this regard, what are the main trends that we will see in French watchmaking this year at Baselı According to the French Watch, Clock, Jewellery and Silverware Centre (CFHBJO), there are seven primary styles that will be popular.

 For shapes, the square and rectangle continue to dominate. The round form remains popular for technical models, sports watches and chronographs.

 The dial takes on greater importance. Mother-of-pearl enjoys great favour as do pastel tones, but white, black, champagne and silver cannot be counted out.

 White metals (steel and white gold) are still in fashion, including aluminium. Rose gold, bi-colour and gold plate all have the wind in their sails.

 The variety in the type and style of bracelets is increasing.

 Bezels, bracelets and dials are being set with diamonds, precious and semi-precious gemstones, and synthetic stones, not only for ladies’ watches but also for men’s timepieces.

 For Him, chronographs and complicated watches are still very much in demand. The fashion is urban chic, with fine lines, in all steel or bi-colour.

 For Her, the choice is even larger. It ranges from jewellery watches to more sporty models. Chronographs specially designed for women, available in a smaller size, with soft colours and set with stones, are quite fashionable.

Lip looks to the spirit of its founder
At Basel, the brand is promoting its new collection, baptized Fred Lip.
Confident and happy watchmakers do exist! Just ask Jean-Luc Bernerd who since 2002 has been the owner and manager of the brand Lip. “I can’t complain. We had a two-digit increase in turnover in 2003,” he declares. Even better - with its new Fred Lip collection, the brand intends to reach a more demanding clientele and return the letters of nobility to a brand name that still occupies a warm place in the hearts of the French people, even though it has had several decades of problems. Its presence at the Basel fair will allow the enterprise to promote an original range of products.
So, how to describe these new productsı According to Jean-Luc Bernerd, “Our strategy is to draw inspiration from the models that earned Lip its glorious reputation in the 1960s. One of these is the T 18, for example, which we will modify with an additional touch of creativity and bring up to today’s standards for quality.” As examples of this ‘evolution’, three models seem promising: the very feminine Type 18 Strass whose mother-of-pearl dial is decorated with a thin line of stones; the Mechanical Square Duo, which, as its name implies, has two superimposed dials; and the Type 18 chronograph. All are equipped with Swiss movements, steel cases and sapphire crystals. The prices have not yet been fixed, but for the Fred Lip line, they should be in the range of 150 to 500 euros.
Carefully selected material, savoir-faire, and mastery over workmanship are three factors that Jean-Luc Bernerd will draw on in order to move the brand upmarket. “We have confidence in the future and expect to renew the watch tradition of Lip,” he affirms.
Parallel to this new collection, distributed exclusively in specialized retailers, Lip is continuing its production of more popular watches, which are sold through larger distri-bution networks, catalogue sales, large enterprises that offer business premiums, or through the internet. “Today, business is organized in several ways. We intend to use all the channels possible, on all continents,” explains Bernerd. This is the reason that the Lip range of products is so diverse and why the brand will continue to present regularly updated models, a repetition of the tactics in its heyday. One example is the Mach 2000, created by the famous designer Roger Talon, which is a bestseller today on the American and Japanese markets.

Saint-Honoré flies high
2004 will be a pivotal year for this brand, which is contemplating moving upmarket and is getting ready to open its first store in Paris.
For frequent air travellers and in particular those travelling with Air France, it is impossible not to notice the name Saint-Honoré! It appears on the reverse side of the ticket jackets, where the symbol nearly jumps out at you. This is representative of the brand’s new flight path, which is being carried out in different ways. It will begin at BaselWorld and continue during the year. The key words to sum up the company’s strategy are: better positioning and better marketing.
The first phase in this vast promotional campaign is the May opening of a boutique in Paris, the first in the French capital to bear the Saint-Honoré name. What is the addressı Well, it doesn’t take much of a guess to assume that Saint-Honoré would have its boutique on the Rue Saint-Honoré. This particular address is right in front of the Colette boutique, one of the temples where the ‘trendy’ Parisians worship. Obviously, the location could not be better. “This address is going to be very important for us, and especially for our clients coming from Japan and the Middle East. We enjoy a certain reputation in these countries, but when visitors arrive in Paris, they are surprised to learn that the brand does not have its own store. Well, now it does,” explains the management of Saint-Honoré.
This family company, which has been in existence for nearly 100 years, has also begun an introspective look at its identity. What are its rootsı Who are its potential clientsı There are so many questions that have not been satisfactorily answered up to now. But will they be answeredı It seems that they will.
First of all, Saint-Honoré is essentially a feminine brand. It is therefore not going to change this identity. Secondly, it has a Parisian name, synonymous with luxury and fashion. Because of this, the decision was taken to move upmarket, little by little, with average prices of about 650 euros.
The move up in range will result in a reduction in the number of collections and models, as well as a standardization of quality. “Our watches will be 80% Swiss Made,” proudly states a spokesperson for the brand. “We wanted our products to be a little more ‘cool’ with a little more sex appeal,” he adds. So, it seems that the brand is sacrificing a little of its past in favour of finding fashion trends. Still, it is not going so far to drive away its traditional clients, those who appreciate classicism à la française.
Lastly, Saint-Honoré intends to give added stimulus to its marketing efforts in addition to redefining its foreign distribution network, notably in countries like Italy, Spain, and the United States, where the brand wants to increase its visibility. “For the moment, we are putting into place these strategies, including hiring new designers. It will probably be 15 to 18 months before we are able to judge if all of this is working. However, I can tell you that we are pulling out all the stops to make it work.”
At Basel, the brand will be present with very different product lines. One highlight is the Coloseo Diamond collection, inspired, as the name implies, from the Roman amphitheatres. They will be available in several sizes (men’s and women’s), with or without diamonds. The Orsay line revisits the Art Deco style with its pure lines, and comes with dials and bracelets in various colours. The two collections are equipped with automatic mechanical or quartz Swiss movements and come with stainless steel cases with screw-in case backs. For the younger consumer, the Roma Horizon Fashion line distinguishes itself by its varied offer of coloured bracelets, including a special edition called ‘Graffiti’.

Vuillemin-Régnier at the crossroads
The Charquemont-based enterprise, which had declared bankruptcy, has now found a buyer, whose spirit of initiative leaves room for hope.
Philippe Barro’s enthusiasm is a pleasure to see. For this young man in his thirties, the challenge is great. He must get the bankrupt company back on its feet. “For me, a watchmaker, there was no question of letting a venerable 80-year-old company, which represents true French watchmaking, go under. This is why I jumped in and went to see the bankers and investors,” explains Barro. The result of all his effortsı Barro got their support, but the hardest is yet to come. He has to get all the sectors moving again.
First of all, the company has been restructured in the best manner possible for its employees. Philippe Barro was able to keep nine out of fourteen workers and has even added three more. Second, as any good self-respecting manager would do, he came up with some new strategies. “Our idea is to begin by reducing the number of collections and to develop our creativity for the remaining ones. We are going to place the accent on design,” he adds. This mode of action was not pulled out of the air, but rather came from detailed study of the main clientele of Vuillemin-Régnier, who are young and active, aged between 25 and 40 years. About 60% to 70% are women.
Secondly, continues Barro, “The brand wants to be at the forefront of trends and develop, what is called in the jargon, the ‘French touch’. We must be reactive to the market.” While accomplishing all this, the brand will remain positioned in the lower mid-range with prices between 150 and 300 euros.
Lastly, Vuillemin-Régnier will rethink its distribution and place more importance on exports, which today account for only 11% to 15% of turnover. The stated goal is to double this amount. At the current time, the Middle East is the most important foreign market. However, the company intends to develop its presence in the former East European bloc, in North Africa, Japan and China. In France, it will begin experimenting with new sales concepts. It will take several months or even a year or more to be able to judge the success of this endeavour.
At Basel, the brand will display only collections that were introduced under the previous management. Among them is an attractive series of chronographs called ‘Victoria Line’ available in both men’s and ladies’ models. The difference between the two is seen primarily in the colour of the dials and bracelets. One thing is sure. Philippe Barro is committed to making the new Vuillemin-Régnier brand succeed. We certainly wish him luck!

Beuchat on the road to adventure
Purchased in 2002 by Georges Belmar, the year 2004 will prove pivotal for the company B Plus-Beuchat. It must ‘make the grade’, as they say.
B Plus-Beuchat has several things going for it. Under licensing agreements, it manufactures Serge Blanco and Caroll watches, distributes products of the Australian brand Speedo in France, and above all, it has its flagship brand, Beuchat, with is large range of products and price points (80 to 750 euros). At BaselWorld, it will be present with only the Beuchat label.
Everyone, or almost everyone, has heard of the nearly 100-year-old Beuchat. It acquired its reputation with water-resistant watches and intends to follow this same course. “There is no reason to change. People expect to see us in this segment. We have our place here. Our history speaks for us,” explains Aude Delaferté, director of the brand’s communication. This is why it is emphasizing the qualities that have made it successful: strength, technology, and reliability. But this is not all. Beuchat wants to open new horizons, as is summed up in its new slogan, “Beuchat, as long as there are oceans.” Starting now, Beuchat is on the road to adventure.
So, what does it propose along the wayı To judge from the brand’s 24 collections, they cover the land, the sky and the sea. The names also express Beuchat’s philosophy as well as that of the individuals who wear them. Abyss, Cap 90, Dive Bomb, Lagoon, Luminova, Oceanium, Skyteam, Rafting, Winch, Wishbone, X-Life are only a few of the descriptive titles. That said, the Beuchat wearer is also urbane and chic, or in another word, fashionable. An example, according to Aude Delaferté, is the Overstep collection that was launched in 2003. “It is doing very well,” she states. This collection is composed of a series of seven watches and chronos with elegant and fluid lines.
At Basel, Beuchat will come with a new and very original model, which is, for the moment, veiled in secrecy. As we go to press, the company has not revealed what it is like except to say that there are three hands, and a large case with a “very refined look that will embrace the form of the wrist.” Rendezvous at their stand at Basel for the unveiling of this mysterious timekeeper.
For the enterprise, 2004 will be a crucial year, one of a true re-launch. We must remember that, before the purchase of the company by Georges Belmar in 2002, it was absent from the market for two years. Obviously, this is never a good thing. Today, for Beuchat, it is a question of developing not only its sales points in France (400 as of today), but also in foreign markets. In this regard, agreements are on the point of being signed with ten or so countries. One of its strong selling points is its excellent after-sales service, which is located in Paris.

Clyda wants to strengthen its image
Redefining its strategy for 2004, Clyda will involve three key areas: strengthen the image of the brand, revitalize its marketing, and revisit its promotional efforts with specialized stores.
Clyda - now there is a watch company that is smiling, with little to complain about in this difficult market. “It is true that 2003 was a very good year for us, since our turnover increased 15%,” smiles Sylvie Cler, head of marketing for the brand. “We can explain this excellent result by the good rotation of the four brands that we take care of.” In fact, Clyda does not only design, produce and distribute Clyda watches. It also has the licenses for Adidas and Ted Lapidus, and distributes a part of the Tommy Hilfiger range in France.
For the Clyda brand itself, the company is redefining its strategy for 2004. This will involve three key areas: strengthen the image of the brand, revitalize its marketing, and revisit its promotional efforts with specialized stores. “How can we describe Clyda watchesı We could say that they are both elegant and classic. This is what has made them successful and different from the others. Therefore, we want to keep this image. Our idea is to give them a minor face-lift, to make them a bit more fashionable, to give them a little more personality,” explains Sylvie Cler. How will the brand do thisı For the next few months, Clyda is keeping its new designs under wraps. “At Basel, you will see the first fruits. But it will only be in August, that this transformation will be announced,” she adds.
The target customers of the brand, which is active primarily in the jewellery watch sector, are active women aged 25 to 30 years. And what do these active women wantı According to Clyda,
they want fashionable timepieces, but not taken to the extreme. The products must be “chic, elegant and refined,” according to the brand. To emphasize this ‘touch of class’, Clyda has given its collections names like Les Essentielles, Les Parisiennes, Les Eternelles.
In the Les Eternelles collection, the new concept resides in the subtlety of detail. In this case, a precious stone is set at the junction of the case and bracelet. A round, silver-plated metal watch, it should sell for around 190 euros. For its younger clientele, the brand has the California line, featuring an updated tonneau shape. It also plays on the contrasts of colours, for example, a black dial on a rigid metal bracelet. The California pieces will sell below 100 euros.
For the Adidas line, there will be no startling new models during the spring season. “Rather, we are concentrating on the ranges of products that sell well, thus we are putting the accent on ladies’ watches. In this vein, we are proposing rectangular cases and digital displays,” states Sylvie Cler. The brand is developing a sporty look with its Climate Cool line, equipped with an aileron bracelet designed to give better ventilation between the band and the wrist.
The same basic principle is being applied to the Ted Lapidus line. The products that sell well, that is, the models with a horizontal rectangular case and double colour bracelets, are being promoted by the enterprise.

Bernard Florentin at the height of fashion
The enterprise headquartered in Morteau proposes a new variety of watches based on the latest fashion trends.
With its some 20 employees and a turnover of about 4.8 million euros, Bernard Florentin can be considered a small enterprise. But this company has a structure, which is very reactive to the marketplace and can adapt quickly to the desires of its clientele. This is where its strength lies and which allowed it to finish 2003 without much worry. “We were not expecting any miracles last year. In relation to 2002, we did a little less well, but nothing catastrophic. On the other hand, for 2004, we are clearly more confident,” states Bernard Lascaugiraud, the brand’s CEO.
At Basel, Bernard Florentin will be present with its feminine line Passion, which was launched at the end of 2003. It comprises some 20 watches that are in line with today’s latest fashion trends. Great care has been taken in the design of the cases, with emphasis on square and rectangular forms. The steel is sometimes set with synthetic stones, while the dials and bracelets are available in a wide range of colours. “These are products for the modern active women, aged between 18 and 50 years. We do not exclude anyone,” explains Bernard Lascaugiraud. “Something that we know how to do well is the creation of stylish products that are on top of today’s fashion trends.” The other house collection is the Sportway line, which follows the same philosophy, with the added value of special packaging.
The variety of models offered by Bernard Florentin has what it takes to satisfy a mainly French clientele, although 40% of turnover results from the brand’s exports. Its main foreign markets are the Middle East, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Greece and Portugal. What is perhaps surprising for such a trend-oriented company is that it does not have an online presence. “For us, it is too complicated to set everything up to sell on the internet. Besides, we like to have our representatives. Nothing replaces personal and direct contact, human contact, to sell an object like the watch,” adds Lascaugiraud.

Pierre Lannier’s ‘love at first sight’
The Alsacian watchmaker proposes not only its own lines, but also those of the brands Aigle and Vuarnet, for a choice of three quite different collections.
Pierre Lannier, Aigle and Vuarnet are the three pillars of Pierre Lannier, which is based in Ernolsheim-les-Saverne, in Alsace. Three brands, three ways of designing a watch according to the styles and fashions of the day.
Under the first label, there is an equal number of men’s and women’s timepieces. However, at Basel, the ladies’ models will be showcased to a greater extent. The originality of these pieces resides primarily in the new design of the ‘elongated’ rectangular cases, requiring rather large bracelets. The sum total gives a delightful equilibrium to the piece. As for the dials, they are available in blue and mauve pastel that is right in tune with the times. Prices range from 60 to 80 euros.
At Pierre Lannier, these pieces are truly considered as fashion accessories. “It is the watch that you fall in love with at first sight, that the young woman can coordinate with her clothes, her mood,” sums up Pierre Burgun, General Manager of Pierre Lannier. With this new collection, the brand intends to develop original projects in all of its sales points in France. Next summer, it will organize a tour of the beaches, in order to promote its watches in all aspects of the fashion world.
The Vuarnet range is a different story. Here, the sporty and technological aspects are dominant. The chronographs are large, but without being too heavy. They express sturdiness, a quality required for the skier seeking adventure on the untamed mountainous slopes. The materials chosen live up to this expectation. The cases are made of steel, with a mineral glass, and enjoy water-resistance to 50 metres. For the chrono presented this year at Basel, the precision is measured to 1/20th of a second. “In this latest collection, we have modified our design a little bit. It is now more urbane, more chic, and more elegant than the preceding versions,” declares Pierre Burgun.
For the Aigle collection, the lines are more classical in nature, which is more in line with the relaxed-chic image of the clothes bearing the Aigle label. Here the accent is not on sports but rather on going for a walk or even a hike. To emphasize this aspect, some watches are sold in a kit with a backpack. Having said that, the brand’s slogan reads ‘Aigle watches are so beautiful that you can never take them off’, suggesting that they can be worn anytime, anywhere.

The multiple faces of Christian Bernard
This year, the accent will be placed essentially on the launch of the licensed watches bearing the Guy Laroche label. There are 18 models that will be available in several styles for woman and men.
At Christian Bernard, there is no lack of choice. While the group offers its own brand label, it also distributes, under license, the jewellery watches signed Balenciaga, Cacharel, Diamanti, Féraud, Fontenay, Morgan and Guy Laroche. In all, there are some 8,000 references in its catalogue.
The big news this year is the appearance of Guy Laroche in the watch sector. The first collections will be introduced at Basel and are comprised of a mixed line of women’s and men’s timekeepers, with the masculine versions taking the lion’s share (70%) of production. All together, they incorporate 18 models, in several styles, for a total of 63 different products, an indication of the importance of this new brand.
So what is the label Guy Laroche all aboutı A little of everything, but with a dominant city chic look, classic and elegant. Attention has been paid to the details, such as the attaches of the bracelet that are signed ‘Guy Laroche’. Another interesting point is that some of the bracelets are over-stitched while others are made of unusual materials such as galuchat. “These are not extravagances, which would not correspond to the spirit of the brand, but they are nearly so! In any case, they are an added plus,” exclaims Christian Bernard. Prices for this new range will be situated between 150 to 300 euros. Although the prices are affordable, this does not mean that the company spared any expense for the materials.
What is the objective of creating the new Guy Laroche labelı This collection should attract new customers, and one day, perhaps they will become interested in prêt-à-porter. Distribution of the new pieces will be through classic watch retailers who have been “selected for their trendy image.”
For Fontenay, no new models will be launched between now and the autumn season. However, every six months, the brand gives a little face-lift to its collections.
As for the Christian Bernard label itself, we can mention the arrival of the Slimlight collection, with a classic and timeless design. The Fifth collection, as its name implies, plays with symbols, as in the five continents, the five principal religions, the five senses, and the five fundamental elements of our existence (air, water, fire, earth and, of course, time). This brand is also notable for its quality and watchmaking savoir-faire, since it was created in the Jura, at Maîche, on the border between France and Switzerland. One could not dream of a more auspicious birthplace.