features


Tourbillons: 2003 was a bountiful year

August 2003





There was an avalanche of tourbillons at the 2003 Spring fairs! Has it become an epidemic? This year, we witnessed an amazing outbreak in the 'queen of complications'. How can we navigate through this deluge? How can we distinguish the real innovation from an ordinary copy? To help us, and you, get our bearings, Europa Star asked a trained watchmaker who is also an independent retailer in Geneva, Denis Asch (L'Heure Asch) to share his appreciation and knowledge of the current state of affairs of

First observation that we all agree upon is that 'too much is too much'. The abundance of tourbillons takes away from the value of this complication that is the crème de la crème of the complication. Why has there been such a headlong rush into the tourbillon, we asked Denis Asch.

Denis Asch: There are other extraordinary mechanisms such as the perpetual calendar or the minute repeater, but these complications are generally not visible. The tourbillon, on the other hand, moves and lives. It is something spectacular, which we notice right away. A person doesn't need to be an expert in watchmaking to understand that it is different and special. From an aesthetic point of view, therefore, a tourbillon has certain advantages and every watch collector wants to have one of these masterpieces. The brands clearly understand this and, commercially speaking, they are right to join in the game. Yet, it is not necessarily all these brands that have the legitimacy or the expertise to contribute something to watchmaking. The tourbillon has been around since 1802. While it was useful for pocket watches, it does not really need to be in a wristwatch since this type of watch is constantly changing positions and therefore does not need to compensate for its operation. With the current plethora of tourbillons, we are seeing a devaluation of this wonderful device. It's really too bad, but that's the way it is.

Europa Star: We hear a lot about the 'democratized' tourbillon launched by Progress. What do you think about this?

DA: It is a good challenge but not a wonderful challenge. Let me explain. Progress, at least in the beginning of its exciting adventure, had the means necessary to create an efficient and attractive tourbillon. What they ended up with was certainly robust, at an affordable price, but one that is quite massive. Without wanting to generalize, the lighter the frame is, the better the tourbillon can be adjusted. One of the lightest cases weighs 0.2 grams. At Progress, it weighs much more. Also, Progress has allowed a personalization of its tourbillons according to the brands. A logo can be incorporated as an integral part of the frame itself but in the case of Progress, it is an element that is added onto the frame, making it even heavier and thicker. The beauty of a tourbillon is in the feeling of lightness and airiness that it evokes.

ES: Isn't there also an element of being somewhat overpriced?

DA: The tourbillons on the market today are often excessively expensive, that is correct. But still we must differentiate among them. In spite of a definite high cost, we need to congratulate those who have known how to or who have dared launch into the research and development of a new tourbillon. We must also salute the watchmaker's passion and love for fine craftsmanship. For collectors and aficionados of fine watches, owning a masterpiece such as a tourbillon satisfies a dream, and can be compared to owning a unique masterpiece in art, for example. In this case, price is not an issue. A fine tourbillon, angled, decorated, perfectly balanced and adjusted, requires hours and hours of highly specialized work. Some prices are justified, while others are clearly not.

After this brief introductory conversation, we move to the examination, case by case, of the latest tourbillons shown this year. In all, we selected 16 models for Denis Asch to comment upon. (While this list is not exhaustive, it does offer a representative look at the current situation.) Asch began by taking the first dossier that came to hand. The discussion is open and free and in most cases, our opinions were the same, with the exception of a few minor points of personal preference.

The selection is in alphabetical order.