A veritable “baby boom.” Yes, a real flood of new names has appeared on the watch landscape and marks the return of spring.
The projects are too many to count, and so much the better. Isn’t this one of the strongest signs of the everlasting vitality of the watch sectorı
Before, the industry was more or less reserved for the ‘old men’ but now watchmaking has become very attractive for quite a few young people who feel sure that they can carve out a niche and make a name for themselves. There are others who simply want to show that their approach is worthy.
These newcomers come from all walks of life. They are not even all watchmakers. Many are designers, creators, jewellers, marketing people or young entrepreneurs.
These one man shows are often small groupings, typically composed of a creator, marketing person, and financier, all working on a common project.
Perhaps the most interesting aspect of this unit is that it offers a true creative laboratory for watchmaking. It is here that new design and technical avenues are explored.
This year marks a turning point in this respect. Up to now, the new brands were often made of independent watchmakers. Wanting to demonstrate the value and validity of their timepieces, their work generally leans toward technical performance (double tourbillons, etc...).
The recent new entrepreneurs seem to prefer a more relaxed, less complex and more colourful approach to watchmaking. More attentive to shapes and more sensitive to fashion than their predecessors, they are inventing new forms and conduct research into novel ways to display the time, while still surfing on the wave of mechanical movements. Sometimes, they even add to the movements.
People used to think that the large groups, by investing in the niche areas, would lock up watchmaking. The opposite has, in fact, has happened. The sector has actually become liberated, comfortable… and it is so much the better for it.




THE GRAND VOYAGEUR by HTO
Created in 2001 to serve as an incubator for watchmaking projects based on original designs, the HTO partnership agreement was founded by Vianney Halter, Jean Yves Mariez, Pascal Pages and Philippe Mariez.
This stainless steel watch (40 MM), with a dial designed to be reminiscent of French railway platform clocks, is equipped with an ETA 205.911 hand-wound electronic movement (a system whereby a micro-generator converts the power into electric energy that and stocks it into an accumulator). Fully charged the power-reserve is 100 days. Hours, minutes, seconds and perpetual calendar functions on a three-tier dial available in several colours, sapphire crystals front and back, water-resistant to 30 metres.


Source: April-May 2005 Issue

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