The exceptional new piece that De Grisogono presented at BaselWorld this year is a genuine treat for ladies. The Tondo Tourbillon Gioiello is fitted with the brand’s first manual winding mechanical tourbillon movement. Furthermore, the novel position of the tourbillon carriage, which is visible in the 8 o’clock position, sets the watch apart and leaves room for an equally novel dial design.
Using the “XL” version of the Tondo case in 18-carat white gold, with the imposing dimensions of 60.49mm by 45.35mm, this diamond-set piece weighs in at over 100 grammes (82 grammes for the case and a further 35.38 grammes for the white-gold buckle) and thus cannot fail to catch the eye.
The traditional yellow-gold screws on the balance wheel and the warm red of the ruby jewel settings and pallets are the only colours present on the dial among the gloss of polished stainless steel and the shimmer of mother-of-pearl. They immediately draw attention to the tourbillon mechanism, which is powered by a mainspring that offers a 72-hour power reserve.
Despite its understated look, the dial elegantly illustrates all the interactions within the watch. A polished bridge at 3 o’clock shows the connection between the crown, the winding stem and the ratchet wheel at 12 o’clock (which is engraved with the de Grisogono coat of arms at the centre and the name around the circumference) and the elements responsible for transmitting the energy to the balance to drive the white-gold Dauphine hands are all clearly visible beneath the tourbillon carriage. Mother-of-pearl sections complete the space to provide a harmonious transition to the sparkling bezel.
A total of 8.57 carats of diamonds are set on the Tondo Tourbillon Gioiello using the “à quatre grains” invisible stone-setting method. The bezel accounts for around 3.52 carats alone, with 33 white diamonds set into it. A further 469 white diamonds (4.2 carats) are set into the rest of the case and the lugs, and another 140 white diamonds grace the 18-carat white-gold butterfly clasp.
The watch is completed with two signature de Grisogono elements: a deep black diamond (0.1 carat) set into the watch crown and a white galuchat strap.
Source: Europa Star April - May 2012 Magazine Issue