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Louis Moinet - Collection

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July 2015


Louis Moinet - 20 Second Tempograph

20 SECOND TEMPOGRAPH:
THE NEW CREATION FROM ATELIERS LOUIS MOINET

Technical, architectural, fun, and above all unprecedented: the new Ateliers Louis Moinet 20 Second Tempograph breaks down the barriers between traditional and contemporary watchmaking, and offers a vibrant tribute to the genius of Louis Moinet.

Exclusive retrograde display

The Tempograph’s expansive dial showcases a twenty-second retrograde mechanism, developed by Ateliers Louis Moinet in collaboration with Concepto. This is much more than just another three-hand watch. The timepiece features a large central retrograde second hand. With a continuous twenty-second sweep, it brings the dial to life in a unique manner – a direct nod to the automatons from the Enlightenment era of watchmaking, when Louis Moinet himself was creating his finest timepieces and grandest clocks.

There’s a second moving display at 9 o’clock: an openwork disc, in subtle shades of white, grey and black, marks out the three twenty-second sequences in each minute.

Last and by no means least, there’s an hour dial at four o’clock, featuring the blue-tinted hands with “dewdrop” tips that have become one of the aesthetic hallmarks of Ateliers Louis Moinet. In the purest of watchmaking traditions, Roman numerals and a minute rail adorn an immaculate back encircled with gold, making the Tempograph easy to read.

“We had already created a first series of 10 Second Tempographs: a patented, limited-edition model that is now to be found on the wrist of many collectors. The new collection displays a rather more classical sensitivity, in line with the ethos of traditional watchmaking elegance,” says Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and Creative Director of Ateliers Louis Moinet. “Building on this classical foundation, we’ve deployed all the contemporary essence of our Ateliers: the open dial revealing the mechanical beauty of the movement; dewdrop hands; a highly technical case – which alone comprises some sixty components; the fleur-de-lis applique at 12 o’clock; and plenty more besides.”

Subtleties for connoisseurs

The exclusive features of this model include, first and foremost, the caliber itself. Designed and developed by Ateliers Louis Moinet, it has over 260 parts. It has been made all in one piece, with no additional module to house the complication. The latter has been integrated to ensure better technical coherence for this component. The subtle interaction of the cam and the ruby-tipped rack at 8 o’clock is a unique and particularly spectacular sight.

“Developing the automatic caliber from scratch allowed us to bring all its mechanical beauty to the fore,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller. “For instance, we were able to highlight the retrograde cam at 8 o’clock, and give it a minimalist spiral shape. Similarly, the upper bridge is pearled, angled and polished entirely by hand; the plates have alternating sanded and polished finishes to give the dial a greater sense of depth. Meanwhile, the Clou de Paris on the bezel is a completely new finish for our Ateliers. We’ve also been able to show off a large part of the workings, as well as the balance wheel – positioned closer to the dial than the bottom, and balanced by 18 screws, as our own watchmaking heritage dictates.”

On the back, the 20 Second Tempograph sports a movement adorned with a circular Côtes de Genève pattern, featuring diamond-cut chamfers and circular satin-finish gears with a 5N gold-toned finish.

The timepiece boasts a 48-hour power reserve, as well as a rotor mounted on a high-tech ceramic ball bearing. This technical detail delivers a very practical advantage: improved winding compared to the traditional system.

Very limited editions for a very special jubilee

The 43.5mm-diameter (44mm-diameter in 18K gold) 20 Second Tempograph is now on its way to boutiques in the Louis Moinet network. Three series of watches will be produced: the first two in pink gold and white gold – 60 of each at a price of CHF 44,000 each. The third series of 365 watches will be produced in titanium, at a price of CHF 22,000.  

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Features and functions
Hours & Minutes
20-second retrograde mechanism

Dial & Hands
Luminous “Gouttes de Rosée”® (dewdrop) hands, blued steel
Domed lacquered dial, diamond-polished decorative filet
Inner bezel ring adorned with guilloché “Clou de Paris” hobnail motif

Movement and finishing
Mechanical self-winding
Calibre LM39 developed and manufacture-made by Louis Moinet and Concepto
Winding: Self-winding
Oscillations: 28,800 vph (8 V/S, 8 vibrations per second)
Frequency: 4 Hz
Lines: 14 ½
Power reserve: 48 hours at maximum wind
Jewels: 36
Rotor : Pawl-lever winding mechanism / Mounted on a high-tech ceramic ball bearing
Decoration: Circular Côtes de Genève pattern, featuring diamond-cut chamfers and circular satin-finish gears with a 5N gold-toned finish

Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet® design featuring six-screw bezel
Materials: Grade 5 titanium with polished and matt finishing / 18K gold
Diameter: 43.50 mm (titanium) ; 44 mm (18K gold)
Thickness: 15.60 mm (titanium) ; 16.10 mm (18K gold)
Water resistance: 50 metres
Case-back: Equipped with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Crystals: Two sapphire crystals with anti-glare treatment on both sides
Crown guard: Patent pending
Width between lugs: 24mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator leather lining
Buckle: Double folding clasp in 316L stainless steel / Pin buckle in 18K gold

Presentation case Louis Moinet book, hand-written guarantee

Limited Editions
LM-39.20.80 365 watches - Grade 5 titanium
LM-39.50.80 60 watches - 5N 18K rose gold
LM-39.70.80 60 watches - 18K white gold

++++Louis Moinet - Vertalor

VERTALOR: THE VERY ESSENCE OF THE WATCHMAKER’S ART

Ateliers Louis Moinet’s Vertalor is ushering in a new aesthetic era. Featuring a tourbillon with a cage hung beneath a three-armed gold bridge, it embodies the creative independence of the Ateliers, celebrating their tenth anniversary this year.

Creativity, unicity and authenticity are the Vertalor’s cardinal values

The Vertalor expresses all the technical and aesthetic quintessence of Ateliers Louis Moinet, and is one of the finest expressions to date of what makes this independent maison based in Neuchâtel so singular. It also marks the first time that a tourbillon cage has hung from a three-armed bridge made from solid gold. The architectural theme of suspension continues with the Vertalor’s barrel, the cover of which also hangs from a gold bridge. Indeed, the gold bridge construction forms the backbone of the Vertalor – and heralds a completely new approach to open-dial watches.

The two series of Vertalors (28 in pink gold, 28 in grey gold) also embody the power of a design that has become the hallmark of Ateliers Louis Moinet: a sculpted case surrounding a dial revealing the technical beauty of the tourbillon. The latter is positioned at 6 o’clock and features a new hand whose tip, in the form of a luminous star, owes nothing to chance: it harks back to Mr Louis Moinet’s very own design for the Julius Caesar clock (1825).

Curves and light

At 12 o’clock these gold bridges make room for a more open, reworked barrel. Its cover features an open-work sun motif. At 6 o’clock, the tourbillon, hanging from the three bridges above, is suffused with light. Between the two, the winding cog can be seen, a witness to the human interaction with the crown and barrel that provides the watch with 72 hours’ power reserve.

The assembly is arrayed in an Ateliers feature that has become legendary: a broad dial embellished with a Côtes du Jura pattern. Two slightly curved open-work hands sweep across it, with the famous “Dew Drop” tips that have also become part of the brand’s aesthetic signature. A fragment of moon meteorite adorns the centre of the dial, at the centre of those distinctive hands.

At 9 o’clock rests the Fleur-de-lis, the emblem of Ateliers Louis Moinet. This completely redesigned, enlarged, mirror-polished applique detail denotes both Louis Moinet’s place in the course of history and his native town of Bourges (which displays the Fleur-de-lis on its coat of arms).

The eight curved, diamond-cut hour markers embody both technical prowess and a powerful aesthetic message – arching above the dial, they help to create a distinctive relief effect in this symbiosis of technology and design.   Technical – and authentic

In the very finest watchmaking tradition, the mechanical movement is manual wind. Set at 3 Hz, its generous three-day power reserve makes the Vertalor suitable for busy modern-day life. The assembly is firmly anchored to a distinctive case, designed and patented by Ateliers Louis Moinet, that is to be found in each of its collections. The case alone has no fewer than 59 parts. Front and back are made from sapphire glass, providing a breath-taking view of the hand-finished movement.

“We wanted a timepiece that would pay tribute to Louis Moinet’s style, particularly that of the School of Fine Arts, where he taught on his return from Italy,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and Creative Director of the Ateliers. “The Vertalor brings together the very essence of our present-day identity: it’s a radiant watch that highlights both technical achievement and the quest for aesthetic balance, complete with its Dew Drop hands, Côtes du Jura dial and many applique features. With such a wealth of details, producing this timepiece was especially exacting.”

The 47mm-diameter Vertalor will be available in white gold and pink gold versions. Leading collectors have lost no time in taking possession of the first models.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Features and indications
Exclusive tourbillon escapement
Central Hours and Minutes
Seconds

Dial and hands

Dial decorated with “Côtes du Jura” ®
18K gold three-armed bridge
Diamond-cut hour markers
Fragment of meteorite in the centre of the dial
“Gouttes de Rosée” (Dew Drop) hands marking hours and minutes
Luminous star-shaped second hand (Design inspired by Julius Caesar clock made by Louis Moinet in 1825)

Movement and finishing
Winding Manual / Mechanism visible through the case-back with “octopus” spring
Oscillations - 21,600 vph
Frequency - 3 Hz
Lines - 14 ½
Power reserve - 72 hours
Tourbillon cage - One full rotation every 60 seconds
Jewels - 19
Escapement - Side lever
Decoration - “Côtes du Jura” ® engraving, blued steel screws

Case and strap
Original design by Louis Moinet®, made up of 59 parts
Material 18K white gold / 18K rose gold
Case diameter - 47 mm
Water-resistance - 30 metres
Caseback - Secured with 6 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet markings
Crystals - Two anti-reflective sapphire crystals
Strap - Louisiana alligator leather, hand-sewn, width between lugs : 24 mm
Buckle - 18k white gold (or 18K rose gold) folding clasp with Louis Moinet symbol

Presentation box - Extra large Louis Moinet Book, hand-written warranty
Rarity - Limited Edition of 28 pieces
Reference no. - LM-35.70.50 / LM-35.50.55

++++Louis Moinet - “Derrick” Tourbillon

"DERRICK” TOURBILLON

Louis Moinet’s Derrick is a world first, combining a tourbillon with a working oil derrick. This unique device, visible over a large part of the petroleum blue dial, is in constant motion, completing its cycle every 15 seconds. Its rocking lever is made entirely of brushed aluminium.

Crafted in a limited edition of 12, the exclusive DERRICK tourbillon movement is hand-wound and beats at a cadence of 21,600 vibrations per hour. One particularly striking technical characteristic is the spectacular visibility of the winding mechanism through the case-back. The “octopus” spring plays three roles by acting as pull-out piece spring, lever spring and click spring.

DERRICK Tourbillon is presented in an exceptional 18K white gold case. Composed of 59 different parts, it is equipped with the Louis Moinet crown guard, incorporating the stem in such a way as to enable easy replacement if required (patent pending).

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Functions
Hour
Minute

Movement
Exclusive tourbillon movement with a working oil derrick
Winding Hand-winding / Mechanism visible through the case-back with “octopus” spring
Oscillations - 21,600 vph
Frequency - 3 Hz
Lines - 14 ½
Power reserve - 72 hours
Tourbillon carriage - 1 turn/minute
Jewels - 19
Escapement - Side lever
Decoration - “Côtes du Jura” ® engraving, blued steel screws

Case
Original design by Louis Moinet®, made up of 59 parts
Material - 18K white gold
Case diameter - 47 mm
Water-resistance - 30 meters
Caseback - Secured with 6 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet markings
Crystals - Two anti-glare sapphire crystals

Dial
Petrol blue, decorated with “Côtes du Jura” ®

Bracelet
Strap - Louisiana alligator leather, hand-sewn, width between lugs : 24 mm
Buckle - 18K white gold & black titanium folding clasp with Louis Moinet symbol

Watch box - Extra large Louis Moinet Book, hand-written warranty
Edition - Limited Edition of 12 watches / LM-14.70.03DB

++++Louis Moinet - GEOGRAPH Rainforest

GEOGRAPH RAINFOREST

GEOGRAPH rainforest, a contribution to preserving the human heritage

“GEOGRAPH rainforest” associates the unique Louis Moinet legacy with an exceptional new material: petrified palm wood. Each watch sold will enable a substantial contribution to the “PULAU BANDING Foundation”, which aims to preserve the Malaysian tropical forest of Belum-Temengor, one of the oldest in the world.

GEOGRAPH rainforest, a contribution to preserving the human heritage

The two chronograph counters are made from genuine petrified palm wood. This emblematic tree believed to be 70 million years old comes from the tropical forests of South-East Asia. Its origins and its venerable age make it the ideal ambassador for the “Rainforest” project.

Through its rich heritage, Louis Moinet expresses a unique brand identity: the time is indicated by “Gouttes de Rosée” (dewdrop) hands, on a dial adorned with “Côtes du Jura”®. The dual-time display is read off by a serpentine hand that makes a perfect match with the sinuous “Côtes du Jura” ® motif. Read-off is facilitated by the “24-hour” ring composed of two separate elements featuring a perfect finish ensuring an extremely high-end aesthetic effect. These “24-hour” rings are made to extremely precise tolerances, and only the finest watchmaking artisans are deemed competent to produce them. The design of the minute circle, of the “moon” and the “sun” are inspired by original Louis Moinet creations dating from the 1820, and in particular the “return from Egypt” clock made for Marshal Joachim Murat, as well as the “Egyptian discovery” clock.

The signature features of the Louis Moinet case consist in its upper bezel secured with six screws; its unique interchangeable crown tube system for which a patent has been filed; the “champagne-cork” style chronograph pushers adorned with the atlas motif symbolising travel.

In order to ensure the harmony and balance of the functions of this chronograph associated with a dual-time display, the date appears not at 3 o’clock, but instead at 9 o’clock. It is complemented by a “sun”-shaped running seconds indication of which the longer arm indicates the seconds.

In keeping with the principle that a Louis Moinet watch must be beautiful from all angles, the case-back is inspired by the tropical forest themes. These incredibly accurate engravings depict an orang-utan and a rhinoceros hornbill against the backdrop of the tropical forest and a starry sky. The orang-utan is threatened with extinction and as such embodies the efforts that must be made to save the tropical forest for future generations.

The self-winding mechanical movement with its 8 vibrations per second (meaning 28,800 vibrations per hour) drives a variety of indications including the hours, minutes and seconds; the 60-second chronograph function with 30-minute and 12-hour counters; as well as a dual-time display adjustable via the crown.

“GEOGRAPH rainforest” is a unique creation issued in a 120-piece limited edition dedicated to the wrists of modern-day adventurers.

GEOGRAPH rainforest & the Pulau Banding Foundation

Tropical forests are home to two-thirds of the world’s living animals and plants, and their preservation is essential to the future of our planet.

The “Pulau Banding Foundation” is located at the far end of the tropical forest of Belum-Temengor, mid-way between the east and west coasts of Malaysia, near Gerik, in the state of Perak (Malaysia). This is one of the world’s oldest tropical forests. It is believed to be 130 million years old and is spread across 300,000 hectares accommodating a wide variety of animals and plants, including many that are unique in the world.

The “Pulau Banding Foundation” aims to promote the sustainable development of the tropical forest ecosystem of Belum-Temengor, as well as the study of this area. This forest is of capital importance, since it hosts over 3,000 species of flowering plants, including three varieties of Rafflesia, the world’s largest known flower. It is also the natural habitat of 64 species of fern, 62 species of moss, 10 species of hornbill and its lake has 23 varieties of freshwater fish and five species of turtle.

The surface area of the Belum-Temengor tropical forest corresponds to four times that of Singapore. It is a favourite place for large jungle animals such as tigers, elephants and rhinoceros. Among them are 14 mammal species threatened with extinction: the Malayan tiger, the Malayan bear, the Sumatran rhinoceros, the white-handed gibbon, the Asian elephant and the Malayan tapir.

PULAU BANDING FOUNDATION http://www.pbf.org.my/

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET

EXTERIOR
Case - Original Louis Moinet® design featuring six-screw bezel
Materials - 5N 18-carat rose gold & 316L stainless steel, polished and matt finishing
Diameter - 45.50 mm
Thickness - 17.07 mm
Water resistance - 50 metres
Case-back - Equipped with 7 screws / Engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols / Engraving inspired by the tropical forest
Crystals - Two sapphire crystals with anti-glare treatment on both sides
Crown guard - Patent pending
Chronograph pushers - “Champagne cork” design, “Atlas” engraving
Dial - “Côtes du Jura”® design / “24-hour” display featuring two applied midnight blue & gold-toned zones / Facetted hour-markers / Counters made from genuine petrified palm wood
Hands - “Gouttes de Rosée” (dewdrop) design / “Sun”-motif small seconds indication (at 9 o’clock)
Strap - Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator leather lining
Interhorn width - 24 mm
Buckle - Double folding clasp in 316L stainless steel
Presentation box - Louis Moinet book, hand-written guarantee
Limited edition - 120 watches in steel & 18-carat rose gold, black dial
Reference - LM-24.30.56

MOVEMENT
Movement - Mechanical self-winding with chronograph and dual-time display
Functions - Hours & Minutes / Small seconds at 9 o’clock / Central 60-second chronograph hand / 30-minute chronograph counter at 12 o’clock / 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o’clock
Special function - Dual-time display via a central hand
Rotor - Louis Moinet design
Winding - Self-winding
Oscillations - 28,800 vph (8 V/S, 8 vibrations per second)
Frequency - 4 Hz
Lines - 13 ¼
Power reserve - 48 hours
Jewels - 25
Balance - Glucidur

++++Louis Moinet - Memoris

MEMORIS:
LOUIS MOINET INVENTS THE FIRST “CHRONOGRAPH-WATCH” IN HISTORY

In honour of the memory of its illustrious founder – and on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of its rebirth – Louis Moinet unveils a visionary creation, positioning the chronograph not simply as a complication – but as a central component of the watch.

“It’s probably the most important launch we’ve ever done.” Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet, gets straight to the point in presenting Memoris. The timepiece stands at a historic crossroads: the Ateliers’ tenth anniversary, and the bi-centenary of the chronograph invented by Louis Moinet.

As such, it was important for the creation to be markedly different from its forebear, as well as celebrate its heritage. While everything – or almost everything – chronograph-related already seems to have been invented, there was still one step nobody had dared take: no longer seeing the chronograph as a complication, but rather as the primary function of the timepiece. So much for watch chronographs; Memoris is the first chronograph-watch in watchmaking history.

The chronograph as the primary function – and time as the complication

The concept began to come into being almost three years ago now, with Louis Moinet starting again from scratch. “We couldn’t draw inspiration from what had gone before; everyone else worked from the premise that the chronograph was an additional complication on top of the time function,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller. “Our starting point was the opposite: sweeping away the past and making the chronograph the heart of our design; the central component to which we then added a time function, rather than the other way round.”

In short, Ateliers Louis Moinet did exactly what the eponymous inventor of the chronograph did in his day; taking a completely different approach to watchmaking rather than attempting merely to improve on an existing model. Indeed, that’s how Moinet invented the chronograph and was the first to achieve high frequencies – among his other remarkable lifetime achievements.   A single guiding principle: forget the past and start from scratch

The starting point may be easy to understand, but turning it into mechanical reality required a great deal of effort. Sharing its strategic thinking with Concepto, the movement manufacturer that has worked alongside the brand since its outset, Louis Moinet considered the usual set of traditional watchmaking questions, but applied them to the chronograph: what should be highlighted, what techniques should be used, and what should be shown off?

A thorough knowledge of the history of watchmaking led to the first answers. There can be no doubt that any noble chronograph must have a traditional clutch column wheel. What’s more, tradition dictates that it should feature a monopusher, the most delicate part of the exercise. And given its central role, it made sense to highlight the chronograph by having it occupy pride of place on the dial.

That left the question of what to leave visible, on display. For Louis Moinet, the answer here was quite simply everything: with Memoris, the entire chronograph function has been shifted to the dial.

As a result, the timepiece lives up to every possible expectation. Each aspect of the chronograph’s action can be admired in its entirety, as soon as the pusher is pressed. The column wheel orchestrates the graceful ballet of the mechanism of steel and gears, passing information to the hands. The chronograph reigns in splendid isolation on the dial, leaving the beholder in no doubt that it is neither a skeleton nor an additional component: the all-new movement has been designed for the chronograph alone, and places it centre stage. Louis Moinet has opted to place the traditional workings of the automatic mechanism on the back of the movement, beneath the plate.

A wholly new approach to the casing

To showcase the chronograph in the style it deserves, Louis Moinet has redeveloped practically every decorative item, with a new case, new hands, a new dial, a new oscillating weight, a new folding clasp, and more.

As a bonus, Louis Moinet has come up with a wholly exclusive use of synthetic gemstones. Usually destined to serve as good pivots and provide proper lubrication of the movement components, gemstones have now found a new purpose elsewhere. Black zircon, in a screwed setting, has been used decoratively – on the case horns.

The final result of all this is Memoris: a 46 mm timepiece, available in pink gold or white gold, in three limited editions of just 60 pieces each. Embodying the essence of true commemoration – all the life of the present, rooted in history – it links Louis Moinet’s heritage with the creative vision of the Ateliers that today honour his memory.

The inner workings of Memoris

  • The new caliber on Memoris is the LM54. With a rhythm of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), it has 302 components and provides a 48-hour power reserve. Over sixty parts have been designed and manufactured to allow the chronograph to be presented atop a dedicated movement plate, separating it from the automatic movement beneath.
  • “Energie Plus” is an ingenious, automatic pawl winding system featuring an elegant spring with a ‘crab claw’ design. Completing the system, a miniature ceramic ball bearing is mounted on the dual-material rotor. The advantage of “Energie Plus” is that it allows the piece to be wound up in both directions, with a minimum of excess travel. This optimizes each movement of the rotor, recovering its energy, and winding the movement more effectively.
  • In the finest prestige watch-making tradition, the swivel of the yoke is aligned along the same axis as the second wheel to improve the engagement of the latter’s moving parts. This arrangement provides the best possible distance between the second wheel and the clutch wheel, for every stage of the chronograph function: start, stop and reset.

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET

Features and functions
Monopusher chronograph with column wheel
Chronograph mechanism visible on dial
Hours and Minutes (at 6 o’clock)
Seconds (at 9 o’clock)
60-second chronograph (central hand)
30-minute chronograph counter (at 3 o’clock)

Dial and hands
Chronograph hand, “Monogram” design
Hour & Minute “Gouttes de Rosée”® dew-drop hands, blue-tinted with luminous coating
Rounded lacquered dial, diamond cut bead

Movement and finish
Automatic click movement with chronograph function on dial; hours and minutes off-centre at 6 o’clock.
302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet
Winding: Automatic, bi-directional
Oscillations: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Frequency: 4Hz
Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality
5 position settings
Lines: 13 ¼ _Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 34
Diameter: 30.40 mm
Height: 8.90 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets, diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.

“Energie Plus” system
Pawl winding mechanism
Pawl winding system: comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls
‘Crab claw’ spring mechanism
Gearing: automatic wolf-teeth gear
Ball bearing: 7 Myrox balls (ceramic), diameter: 0.397 mm
Oscillating weight: Dual material, with concentric “Clous de Paris” and “Fleur-de-lis” pattern

Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet®, composed of 52 pieces, design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angle
Monopusher: “Clous de Paris” pattern
Material: 18K gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 15.75 mm
Water resistance: 50 meters
Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Lugs: Screwed settings (1 black zircon jewel and 3 screws per lug)
Crystals: Two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces
Crown protection: Patent pending
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: 18K gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif, two-strand, black DLC-treated steel

Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

Limited editions
LM-54.50.80 - 60 watches - 5N 18K rose gold
LM-54.70.80 - 60 watches - PD150 18K white gold – rhodium-plated mainplate
LM-54.71.80 - 60 watches - PD150 18K white gold – blued mainplate

++++Louis Moinet - Derrick Gaz

DERRICK GAZ: A FIRST IN WATCHMAKING ART THAT’S ALIVE WITH CREATIVITY

Louis Moinet continues to uphold the creative heritage of its eponymous founder. The tourbillon-powered Derrick Gaz combines automaton and watchmaking prowess, illustrating the vitality of the fully independent Ateliers – which have just celebrated their tenth anniversary.

Is there still scope for creativity, innovation and unicity? It would seem so, because once again Louis Moinet has moved into completely uncharted territory in both technical and aesthetic terms.

At the heart of this voyage lies creation in the strictest sense of the term. The twelfth-century word “create” derives from the same Latin root as “crescere”; before it took on its present-day meaning of invention, it originally had the sense of “grow”. And ‘growing’ was indeed the vocation of Louis Moinet, the man who invented the chronograph in 1816 and pioneered high frequencies in watches, along with many other discoveries: growing the art of watchmaking and taking it forward to new horizons. Today, creative growth remains the vocation of the Ateliers that bear his name.

The theme of the pipeline

Indeed, Ateliers Louis Moinet is continuing to plough the same creative furrow. The Derrick Gaz is a wholescale invention: a timepiece at the crossroads of high precision, watchmaking art and the great tradition of automatons. The piece is intended to be both technical and fun. Based on an attentive observation of the traditional gas extraction systems of the nineteenth century, it is fitted with an expansive tourbillon, one of Louis Moinet’s distinctive hallmarks.

Everything begins with the extraction of the precious chemicals. The gas derrick rises up majestically on the left-hand side of the timepiece. This large openwork structure – skeletonized would be the term from watchmaking – is made from 18-carat gold, a perfect reproduction in every detail of the derricks dedicated to underground exploration. Similarly, in the middle there is a replica of a drill – an endless screw that is also in endless movement on the Derrick Gaz, rotating about its axis once every 2.5 seconds.

And so the gas begins its journey along the pipeline, symbolized by the tourbillon bridge, suitably curved in exactly the right tubular shape to maintain the distinctive aesthetic appearance of the timepiece. The same type of bridge is also to be found beneath the regulator system for the hours and minutes.

The gas pipeline leads to the valve handle. Obviously, this is what controls the flow of fuel on a real-life gas network. With the same desire for consistency, Louis Moinet has connected it directly to the crown: when the timepiece is wound by hand, the valve handle turns too, as if it were regulating the supply of energy to the Derrick Gaz.

The pipeline continues its path to a white dial: the gas derrick’s manometer serves as the Power Reserve indicator for the Derrick Gaz. Everything on it – down to the tiniest details, including the shape, type, proportions and design of the hand – is a faithful reproduction of the real manometers to be found on gas networks.

The journey comes to a natural close at 3 o’clock, where the gas is stored in a tank made from fully polished 316L steel.

High-octane innovation

“The timepiece is so instantly compelling because we’ve successfully taken up the challenges involved,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller, Louis Moinet’s CEO. “Nevertheless, it was particularly difficult to produce this new automaton. To fashion each of its components, we had to use innovative manufacturing processes: only they could achieve the unrivalled degree of precision required to craft the gas derrick and the tubular pipeline structure running right across the timepiece. Each of the components was then hand-finished, as are all of our most exclusive pieces.”

The Derrick Gaz will feature many of Louis Moinet’s distinctive style marks: luminous Dewdrop hands, a 255-part Louis Moinet LM42 movement decorated with wave-pattern Geneva Stripes, sunray brushing and pearling, a Fleur-de-Lys applique, and a patented 47 mm Louis Moinet case. The dial will also be decorated with a coloured, lacquered Clou de Paris concentric pattern – a first in Louis Moinet collections.

The timepiece boasts a three-day power reserve and will be available in two exclusive limited editions of 28 pieces each, in 5N 18-carat rose gold with a black dial, and PD150 18-carat white gold with a blue dial.

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET

Features and functions
Tourbillon
Hours & Minutes: central hands
Power reserve: ‘manometer’ display at 2 o’clock

Gas drill derrick automaton
18-carat gold gas drill derrick
Continuously revolving drill bit (1 revolution / 2.5 secs)
Winding handle (1 revolution of the crown corresponds to approximately 1 revolution of the handle)
316L steel storage tank
‘Pipeline’-style tourbillon bridge connecting the drill tower to the storage tank

Dial and hands
Dew-drop “Gouttes de Rosée”® hours and minutes hands with luminous coating
Lacquered “Clous de Paris” concentric pattern dial
Fleur-de-lis applique

Movement and finish
Manual tourbillon movement with gas drill derrick automaton
255-part LM42 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet
Winding: Manual
Tourbillon cage: 1 rotation/minute
Oscillations: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Frequency: 3Hz
Lines: 14½
Power reserve: 72 hours
Jewels: 39
Diameter: 36.45 mm
Height: 6.60 mm
Decoration: wave-pattern Geneva Stripes, sunray-brushing, pearled

Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet® design comprising 59 different elements
Material: 18-carat gold
Diameter: 47 mm
Thickness: 14.10 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
Case back: Fitted with 6 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Crystals: Two sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces
Crown protection: Patent pending
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: 18-carat gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif

Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

Limited editions
LM-42.50.50 - 28 watches - 5N 18-carat rose gold - Black dial
LM-42.70.20 - 28 watches - PD150 18-carat white gold - Blue dial

++++Louis Moinet - Astromoon

ASTROMOON
LOUIS MOINET OPENS THE HEAVENS IN ITS NEW ASTRAL COMPLICATION

With AstroMoon, a moon phase tourbillon chronograph, Louis Moinet offers another blend of its exclusive watchmaking skill and groundbreaking aesthetic approach.

It’s just the kind of piece that Louis Moinet, the inventor of the chronograph, could well have come up with himself. A contemporary of Jules Verne, Moinet would have loved the dial, so closely resembling the moon and stars. The new AstroMoon by Louis Moinet is a unique embodiment of the blend of poetry and precision that is the hallmark of the independent Ateliers – which have just celebrated their tenth anniversary.

A single aim: opening up the heavens

AstroMoon takes up the brand’s main style codes: an aventurine dial, a column-wheel chronograph, and genuine meteorite fragments – combined for a limited edition of just 28 timepieces. The watch is adorned by what has become Louis Moinet’s signature style: dew-drop hands, a large tourbillon cage with curved bridges, a chronograph hand tipped by a star, and pushers that draw inspiration directly from the Compteur de Tierces, the first chronograph in history – invented by Louis Moinet in 1816.

Amidst all this, the moon-phase complication is the most captivating. In similar fashion to the tourbillon positioned at 11 o’clock, it has been made as expansive as possible so that it can be admired in its entirety, against an aventurine backdrop.

The feature has a unique design, as Jean-Marie Schaller, Ateliers Louis Moinet’s CEO, enthusiastically explains: “We started by taking a look at the most common moon-phases and noted one feature they all had in common: a tiny window that was not only small, but also only half-open – with the moon and night sky having to be squeezed into that half,” says Schaller. “Why not open up the heavens? After all, we don’t usually gaze up at a closed roof!”

An all-new design for the moon phase

The result, positioned at 6 o’clock, is wholly unique to Louis Moinet. In the centre of this rotating disc, two fragments of lunar meteorite face one another, symbolizing the moon. Around the disc is set a wide applique ring with curved indentations to show the moon’s phases as the disc turns.

This composition is characteristic of Louis Moinet, in this case from the Dhofar 459 meteorite. To date, only a hundred or so lunar meteorites have been identified worldwide. Most of them are on display in museums, with very few available for artistic use. These are extremely rare collector’s items for enthusiasts and experienced connoisseurs. What is more, Louis Moinet is the only watchmaking brand to offer meteorites from both the Moon and Mars in its creations.

The new aesthetic approach enables AstroMoon to display a broad swath of its dial, made from aventurine. This deep blue material, dotted with a host of inclusions, not only symbolizes the starry sky – it looks amazingly like it, too.

To preserve that deep tranquility, the four screws on the tourbillon bridges and the chronograph counter are blue-tinted, as are their second and minute markers. In similar vein, the hands and bridges are also openwork, allowing the heavenly brightness of the aventurine to shine through.

Innovation served by watchmaking tradition

To house this assembly, Louis Moinet has chosen a case used for many of its innovative creations. Protected by many different patents, it comprises 49 components, and comes here in a 46.5 mm format. The chronograph pushers are at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock, either side of the Louis Moinet crown and impact resistance system, also patented. The Fleur de Lys – emblem of the Ateliers – is embossed on the surface, as well as featuring as an applique on the dial at 9 o’clock.

The movement powering the AstroMoon is Louis Moinet’s very own, and based on a historic Venus caliber – a venerable, legendary movement acclaimed since the 1960s as a benchmark for chronographs.

Its 373 components boast a highly exclusive finish. The surfaces and angles have been hand-polished in the finest watchmaking tradition. The gold ruby gears and edging and the steel screws, block polished heads and slots emphasize the assertive character of this painstakingly crafted movement. The tourbillon and chronograph bridges are decorated with an engraving depicting the cosmos. Louis Moinet has chosen this legendary caliber not only for its exceptional technical performance and timelessness, but also for its artistic coherence with AstroMoon. Featuring a 50-hour power reserve, the movement is hand-wound.

It is visible through a generous crystal back, with the distinctive signs of Louis Moinet arrayed all around: creativity, unicity, exclusivity and design.

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET

Features and functions
60-second tourbillon
Column-wheel chronograph
Moon phases
Hours & Minutes (central hands)
Seconds (displayed on tourbillon cage at 11 o’clock)
60-second chronograph (central hand)
30-minute chronograph counter (rotating disc at 3 o’clock)

Dial and hands
Luminous star-shaped chronograph hand, inspired by Mr Louis Moinet’s design for the Julius Caesar clock (1825)
Dew-drop “Gouttes de Rosée”® hours and minutes hands with luminous coating
Luminous diamond-cut hour markers
Hand worked aventurine dial
Moon phase shown by an aventurine disc containing two fragments of lunar meteorite Dhofar 459
Fleur-de-lis applique

Movement and finish
Manual tourbillon movement with chronograph function and moon phase
373-part LM29 caliber, manufactured by Louis Moinet on the basis of a historic caliber
Winding: manual
Tourbillon cage: 1 rotation/minute
Oscillations: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Frequency: 3Hz
Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality
Lines: 13¾
Power reserve: 46 hours
Jewels: 28
Diameter: 31.30 mm
Height: 8.32 mm
Decoration: Hand-engraved tourbillon and chronograph bridges, polished bevelling, drawn rims, pearling, diamond-polished facets, circular gears with 2N colour finish and straight-line steel

Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet® design comprising 49 different elements
Pusher: “Rose des vents” compass rose design
Material: 18-carat gold
Diameter: 46.50 mm
Thickness: 16.15 mm
Water resistance: 50 metres
Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Crystals: Two sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces
Crown protection: Patent pending
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: 18-carat gold folding clasp with fleur-de-lis motif

Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

Limited editions
LM-29.50.AV - 28 watches - 5N 18-carat rose gold
LM-29.70.AV - 28 watches - PD150 18-carat white gold

++++Louis Moinet - The Chronograph

THE LOUIS MOINET CHRONOGRAPH

Louis Moinet , the chronograph’s inventor

The recent discovery of a hitherto unknown timepiece is rewriting the history of watch development. It turned out to be the first ever chronograph, although its maker, Louis Moinet, called it a “compteur de tierces.” According to hallmarks on the dust cover, the chronograph was started in 1815 and completed the following year.

This remarkable instrument of an entirely original design is evidently the work of a genius well ahead of his time. It measures events to the sixtieth of a second (known in those days as a “third” or tierce in French), indicated by a central hand. The elapsed seconds and minutes are recorded on separate subdials, and the hours on a 24-hour dial.

The stop, start and reset functions for the central hand are controlled by two buttons which qualifies it as a chronograph in the modern sense, although the term was coined much later. The return-to-zero function was revolutionary for the time. Until today, this invention had been thought to date from Adolphe Nicole’s patent of 1862.

High-frequency pioneer

In the 19th century, watchmakers sought to increase the precision with which they could measure time by increasing the frequency of their watches. By 1820 the generally accepted limit was time measurement to the tenth of a second.

Moinet’s compteur de tierces (“thirds timer”) was thus by far the most precise instrument of its period, measuring time six times more closely than the norm. Moinet’s division of time into sixtieths of a second is another historical achievement that places him among the great contributors to modern watchmaking.

The chronograph’s balance beats at 216,000 vibrations an hour or at the then unimaginable frequency of 30Hz. To put that into perspective, the usual balance frequency in a modern wristwatch is 28,800 v/h or 4Hz. Louis Moinet is thus the father of high-frequency time measurement, although it was not until exactly a century later that a watch was made to beat his record.

Setting the sights on the stars

Moinet made the timer for an astronomical transit instrument, originally mounted for use at sea, that he had adapted to track the movement of heavenly bodies from the land. According to a letter he wrote in 1823, “I came to Paris in 1815 with the sole purpose of devising and making a compteur de tierces. The difficult and seldom attempted realisation of this instrument of a new construction, has achieved my purpose most satisfactorily.”

Why did Moinet need such high frequency? He was timing the passage of stars, planets and even planetary moons. A frequency of 216,000 v/h imparted 60 vibrations a second, thus dividing the second into sixtieths. He made the compteur initially to set the precise distance between the crosshairs in his telescope, as he describes in his 1848 Traité d’Horlogerie: _ “This invention came to me during my observations in the following circumstances. I had acquired a small mobile quadrant by the famous Borda (maker of the entire circle). This instrument, of excellent English manufacture, was balanced on rubies, and by an ingenious system of counterweights was supposed by its maker to be preserved by its own inertia from the motion of the ship, and to provide at sea observations almost as exact as those obtained on land. But the project was not successful. Having acquired the instrument for another purpose, I added, for terrestrial observations, an azimuth circle graduated in minutes with a vernier by the late Fortin, two intersecting levels, a polished mobile axis and a three-footed stand with levelling screws and a scale etc. However the scope’s narrow field of vision put the reticule lines very close together, and it was to remedy this inconvenience of failing to see a line, that I thought up the compteur de tierces, which worked very well by giving me a precise distance between the reticule lines.” (*)

Moinet’s compteur had to function for at least 24 hours at an energy-hungry frequency to time successive transits of a star. To minimise energy consumption his escapement ran on oiled rubies. He reported that it had worked very well for a prolonged period.

The modest watchmaker

The greatest men are often the most modest and such was Louis Moinet, an academic, who shared his research with fellow horologists, rather than a businessman in pursuit of profit. His peers regarded him as one of the greatest horologists of all time. Monsieur Delmas, vice president of the Paris chronometry society had this to say about him: “He was everywhere, at all the discussions just as when he was president of the chronometry society: precise, clear, indulgent, enlightening and encouraging the weak, giving advice to all without self regard, spreading light without ulterior motive…” (From the Panthéon Biographique Universel, 1853).

Today it’s an honour to pay tribute to a great man whose motto was “The essential thing is never to depart from what is true.”

(*) The first person singular is used in this translation. Moinet usually wrote in the first person plural.

TECHNICAL DATA SHEET

Movement
Full plates between four pillars, barrel and fusee
Ruby and steel cylinder escapement
Foliot balance with platinum adjustment weights
30-tooth escape-wheel / Flat balance spring with seven coils
Six pierced ruby bearings with endstones making a total of 13 jewels with the ruby cylinder
Made in gilt and frosted brass

Frequency
216,000 vibrations an hour, 30Hz

Dimensions
Diameter 57.7mm
Height: 9mm
Signed on the upper plate: Louis Moinet

Power reserve
More than 30 hours
State of wind indicator visible through an aperture in the dust cover

Case
Silver with a rim around the bezel and caseback
Bezel with a bayonet fixture
Hinged dust cover, locked by a threaded stud
Four-part semi-bassine case with flat caseband
Four hallmarks on the dust cover:

  1. Association des Orfèvres de Paris (goldsmith’s guild);
  2. Master’s mark;
  3. Second rooster (Ag 900);
  4. Guarantee No 815.

Dial
Silvered and frosted metal, signed Louis Moinet
Three subdials on the face:

  • Top left: 60-minute counter
  • Top right: 60-second counter
  • Bottom centre: 24-hour counter

Hands
Slender, counterpoised centre hand for the 60ths of a second
Two identical hands for the seconds and minutes counters
An open-tip hand for the hours
All the hands are in blued steel

Controls
At 12 o’clock: button to start and stop the chronograph
At 11 o’clock: button to return the 1/60 seconds hand to zero.

The Louis Moinet workshops

The Ateliers Louis Moinet are at Saint-Blaise near Neuchâtel in the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking area. This independent company was established about 15 years ago by Jean-Marie Schaller with the aim of producing watches in the spirit of Louis Moinet: a blend of art and technology.

Although Louis Moinet was an eminent horologist of the 19th century, his work has been largely forgotten. However, recent research has brought to light some of the masterpieces of the past, which are kept in the museum section at Saint-Blaise. These treasures include decorative clocks, complicated pocket-watches, a timer and original documents of the period as well as different editions of Moinet’s 1848 Traité d’Horlogerie.

The company aims to “restore Louis Moinet to his rightful place at the top of the watchmaking pantheon.” The Ateliers Louis Moinet specialise in limited editions and unique pieces of distinctive design.

Exceptional materials

The Ateliers Louis Moinet seek innovation. Here are some examples:

Astralis

ASTRALIS is an innovative watch unlike any other. Its extremely high level of technical sophistication is highlighted by a legendary mechanism. ASTRALIS features an exclusive and unprecedented alliance of complications: a Tourbillon, a split-second column-wheel Chronograph, as well as a 24-hour Planetarium displaying meteorites boasting unique rarity.

Mars
The Jiddat al Harasis 479 Martian meteorite covered a distance of more than 55 million kilometres before Louis Moinet invited it to embark upon a new journey through space and time.

Louis Moinet is the first and only watch brand to present an authentic meteorite originating from the planet Mars. This is doubtless because of its extreme rarity. To date, less than 70 Martian meteorites have been authenticated as such by scientific institutes worldwide. The price per gram of a Martian meteorite is far higher than that of gold, platinum and diamond combined!

The most ancient known rock in the entire solar system The world’s most precious meteorite is certainly Sahara 99555. This is indeed the most ancient known rock in the entire solar system! Its age is estimated at 4 billion 566 million years, with a 100,000-year precision margin. Since it is “the original stone”, scientists have christened it the “Rosetta stone”. This meteorite may well have come from the planet Mercury, although this cannot be asserted for certain, since there is as yet no means of geological analysis available for Mercury.

The Moon
Louis Moinet has played a pioneering role as the only watch brand to use a lunar meteorite (Dhofar 459). To date, less than 100 lunar meteorites have been identified worldwide. Most are exhibited in museums, which means only a very few are available to the public at large. These meteorites are thus extremely rare and are intended for the most discerning collectors.

Geograph Rainforest

This chronograph won the “Best of the Best” Red Dot Design Award, for the world’s most innovative designs. The two chronograph counters are made from genuine petrified palm wood. This emblematic tree believed to be 70 million years old comes from the tropical forests of South-East Asia. Its origins and its venerable age make it the ideal ambassador for the “Rainforest” project. Each watch sold will enable a substantial contribution to the “PULAU BANDING Foundation”, which aims to preserve the Malaysian tropical forest of Belum-Temengor, one of the oldest in the world.

Red Stromatolite

Another rare material, red stromalite is the world’s oldest known fossil, dating back 3.5 billion years. It comes from Australia and has been fashioned into the dial of a tourbillon watch in the TREASURES OF THE WORLD collection. This collection’s purpose is to showcase some of the rarest and least known hardstones such as labradorite, petrified sequoia, hawk’s eye or green aventurine.

Creative watchmaking

Several patents have been filed, notably for the unique 10-second retrograde mechanism in the TEMPOGRAPH model.

A patent has also been sought for the lever-activated chronograph featured in the JULES VERNE Instrument I. A second patent covers the crown protecting device, particularly useful for simplifying after-sales service.

The MECANOGRAPH is fitted with a self-winding chronometer-certified movement with a rotor pivoting on ceramic ball bearings to improve winding efficiency.

JULES VERNE Instrument III is a single-button chronograph that displays its functions with an original indicator.

The Louis Moinet style

Through its rich heritage, Louis Moinet expresses a unique brand identity: the time is indicated by “Gouttes de Rosée” (dewdrop) hands, on a dial adorned with “Côtes du Jura”®.

The signature features of the Louis Moinet case consist in its upper bezel secured with screws; its unique interchangeable crown tube system for which a patent has been filed; and the “champagne-cork” style chronograph pushers.

To ensure a novel and distinctive chronograph read-off in the GEOGRAPH model, its two counters are set with genuine watch jewels made using the Verneuil process, polished on both sides and featuring a special split-level construction.

Mechanical Art in Limited Editions

Each watch tells its own story… which explains why the mechanical art of Louis Moinet can only be expressed in limited editions.

Louis Moinet has manufactured works of art for kings, heads of state and other dignitaries. The message conveyed today has not changed over the years: Louis Moinet watches are designed for the important people of our time. A Louis Moinet watch remains a rare object: annual production does not exceed 1,000 watches.