A most unusual bracelet received this year's grand prize at the Basel Award. It looks like a piece of fireworks, as it “spreads” 296 cultured South Sea and freshwater pearls, along with pieces of fire opal, rutile quartz and rock crystal, which are all set on a white gold spiral that embraces the arm smoothly.

Alexandra SchÖnenberger, student at the School of Design at La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, provided the original idea and produced the piece in cooperation with Golay, who also sponsored the realization.

“As we examined the project, I was convinced that we had a winner” sais Yves Thomann, Golay's Manager of Design. “When we wish to obtain a commercial success, we produce a beautiful piece of jewelry that people will notice and love. To be successful in a contest, we add one more ingredient of top priority: innovation. Alexandra's bracelet is full of it.”

The jury obviously agrees. Last year already, it awarded Golay's entry, a bangle composed of white gold shells, each one containing a cultured pearl that moves freely and visibly inside, thus making a soft, intriguing noise.

This year's creation can expand and retract, thanks to the spiral's spring effect. So it requires no lock and may be worn at the wrist or higher up on the arm, with or without a sleeve. It can be playfully moved while being worn, and stones can be variably positioned. “We worked a lot on the mechanical aspects of the piece, which gave us plenty of both problems to overcome and inspiration for new solutions” recalls Yves Thomann.

Alexandra SchÖnenberger is not at her first try with new ideas. She grew up and studied architecture in Moscow. Specializing in renovations, she was all set to redesign the new Russia, when a Swiss medical student, Roland SchÖnenberger, crossed her way and charmed her into moving to Switzerland. Inspired by her new environment, she developped a passion for industrial design and jewelry. Although a considerable part of her time and attention goes to her son Maxim, she decided to take a 3-year course in design at the Ecole SupÉrieure des Arts AppliquÉs at La Chaux-de-Fonds. The final year of studies brought her participation and success in the Basel Award.

“I had experimented in the past with the movement of an opening flower, using materials like paper, neoprene and feathers. This contest's subject, 'Surreal Appeal', led me to transpose the idea into the intangible setting of stars in the universe. Little by little, the catching elements emerged: the spiral support, the use of pearls and uncut stones, new types of settings, the color scheme. We used Golay's vast experience and connections to come up with the cultured pearls and rough stones that combine to suit both my concept and present color trends. And we pushed the approach all the way to the presentation of the piece, by creating a dedicated display and container.”

She is an unusual woman, Alexandra SchÖnenberger, with an unusual start into a promising carreer. Modestly, she points out that she has been greatly stimulated and encouraged at her school at La Chaux-de-Fonds, and that she could not have realized that winning piece without Golay's know-how and resources. “I dream of working with such competent partners, once I'll have graduated” she thinks out loud. With her kind of talent, it might just happen - and make a new star rise in the universe of jewelry design.

Photograph of the bracelet alone:
The fascinating creation by Alexandra SchÖnenberger and Golay moves 296 pieces - and emotions!

Photograph of the set:
“The stars sleep on my wrist and, at the end of the night, they move slightly to meet the new light and color of the universe.” The winning entry is a full concept with every element emphasizing its “Surreal Appeal” - the philosophy, design, materials and presentation.

Basel Award:
The contest is organized by the World Watch and Jewelry Show in Basel. It awards outstanding creations, designed by students and produced by manufacturers of international renown.

Golay:
Golay is a group of pearl and jewelry companies, engaged in the farming and worldwide trading of cultured pearls.

Golay Group
Press Service
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www.golaybuchel.com