1. DB28XP by De Bethune
The iconic DB28 first saw the light of day in 2010. Ultra-modern in look, it also stands out by virtue of its crown set at 12 o’clock, reminiscent of the pocket watch, and its ingenious floating lugs that provide incomparable comfort for the wearer. On the occasion of its 10th birthday, De Bethune is opening a new chapter in its exploration of the ultra-thin watch. Hence the name – DB28XP (XP for extra-plat or ultra-thin). With this new collection, Denis Flageollet is doing the opposite of what we usually see in the ultra-thin world, seeking to emphasise volume with a multitude of hemispherical, concave and spherical forms that give an impression of depth and relief. A “microlight” dial (a modern take on the traditional guillochage technique), a mirror-polished base in the signature delta shape and markers in the form of tiny polished spheres stage a contemporary show. Hand-wound movement (6-day power reserve) with the De Bethune balance and hairspring. Two other models, the DB28XP Starry Sky and the DB28XP Tourbillon, are also being presented for this anniversary.
2. SOONOW DROP THREE by HYT
The anodised titanium dial of the Soonow Drop Three presents a turquoise canvas for a skull in burgundy and orange, picked out in 313 pins in 18K rose gold and almost 1,000 high-precision perforations. One eye socket acts as a colourful power reserve display. The other focuses on the passing of the seconds, featuring a small-print reminder of the imminence of “Soon” turning into “Now”. The hours are indicated by the black fluidic outline of the skull.
3. EXCALIBUR DIABOLUS IN MACHINA by Roger Dubuis
A flying tourbillon and minute repeater, fused into a single, one-off piece: this diabolically designed machine is a unique demonstration of Roger Dubuis’ vision of Haute Horlogerie. Bent on combining mechanical complexity, geometric rigour and visual chaos, Roger Dubuis chose for the minute repeater a specific, deliberately dissonant sound inspired by the “Diabolus in Musica” of mediaeval religious music.
4. DE VILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION by Omega
In 1994, Omega presented its first “Central Tourbillon” wristwatch, generating incomparable visual effect. This year, the brand takes the exercise a step further with the first “Master Chronometer” certified manual-winding central tourbillon, with a rotating cage capable of withstanding a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss. The tourbillon revolves at a speed of one revolution per minute, allowing the display of seconds, an essential criterion for the certification. The sapphire crystal case back reveals the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 2640 and the 3-day power reserve indicator.