ince founding U-Boat in Lucca in 2000, Italo Fontana - whose grandfather Ilvo, himself a watchmaker, was his greatest source of inspiration - has never been tempted to chase trends. Over the past twenty-five years, the Italian brand has remained remarkably faithful to its original DNA: generous proportions, an instantly recognisable aesthetic, and a strong, unapologetic personality.

This consistency is no coincidence. For Fontana, U-Boat was never the result of market research, but rather of a deeply personal creative journey. The brand is, above all, an extension of his own artistic sensibility. That philosophy is also reflected in U-Boat’s commercial positioning: offering mechanical watches with a bold identity and genuine character at a fair and accessible price point. We met with the designer.

Europa Star: You founded U-Boat more than twenty-five years ago. Has your original philosophy evolved over the years?

Italo Fontana: No. My philosophy has remained exactly the same from the very beginning. I don’t follow trends. I create what I feel. I design watches that reflect my personality, not what the market expects. The moment you start following fashion, you lose your identity.

Today we are seeing a return to vintage-inspired watches, smaller case sizes, and now once again larger watches. Do you adapt your collections to these shifts?

Never. I never tell myself, “Now we need to make smaller watches,” or “It’s time to go back to larger cases.” I remain faithful to my vision. If people appreciate U-Boat, it’s precisely because they instantly recognise its identity.

What defines U-Boat’s aesthetic language?

Everything begins with emotion and personality. A watch must evoke emotion. It needs a strong identity and must be instantly recognisable. Large cases, oversized numerals, outstanding legibility—all of these elements are part of our DNA.

Where do you find your inspiration?

From my imagination and my own sensibility. There may be references to the past, but I never reproduce vintage watches. I reinterpret ideas in my own way. I enjoy contrasts: light and darkness, vintage and contemporary.

You also experiment with colours and materials. How important are they to you?

Extremely important. Colours bring life and emotion. Materials are another way of expressing different personalities. We are always looking to create something distinctive while remaining true to the spirit of the brand.

How do you view today’s watch market?

The economic environment is challenging, and customers are paying much closer attention to the genuine value of what they buy. We occasionally produce highly exclusive editions featuring diamonds or precious materials, but that is not our core business. Our strength lies in offering watches with a strong identity at the right price.

What makes U-Boat unmistakably Italian?

Italian identity is, above all, about creativity and design. Made in Italy certainly matters, but what truly counts is the personality of the product. People recognise this Italian approach, driven by emotion and creativity.

Which are your main markets today?

The United States remains a key market for us. Germany and the rest of Europe continue to perform well, and we also see significant growth opportunities in India.

How is your distribution network organised?

We work with retailers, distributors and a small number of mono-brand boutiques. We favour steady, sustainable growth over rapid expansion.

How do you envision U-Boat’s future?

I remain faithful to my vision. I don’t change simply because the market changes. That’s how we’ve built U-Boat from the beginning, and that’s how we intend to continue.