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Europa Star: Why did you choose tantalum as the material to launch a new chapter for Atelier Wen?
Robin Tallendier: In 2022, no one was really going beyond cases when it came to tantalum. I was struck by its colour and density, especially when I discovered F.P.Journe’s Chronomètre Bleu. We wanted a concept timepiece incorporating a tantalum bracelet to prove that we could play in the big leagues. Because tantalum is rare and reputedly difficult to work with, it was perfect for showing that we could accomplish what many considered impossible.
What were the biggest industrial challenges in creating a watch entirely made of tantalum?
The hardest part was finding someone willing to do it. Out of 11 workshops, only one managed to produce an acceptable prototype. This metal wears down tools, is difficult to polish and generates a lot of waste. We finally secured an exclusive deal with a workshop in China that met the required standards. Today, very few players can produce a complete tantalum bracelet, which gives us a real advantage.
Does Inflection mark a strategic watershed for Atelier Wen?
Absolutely. Inflection is our first permanent full-tantalum collection, with a Girard-Perregaux movement and dials enamelled by one of the best Chinese workshops. It’s a statement of intent: to show that a Chinese brand can offer a high-end timepiece devoid of any compromise. For us, it’s a milestone towards a new era of Chinese watchmaking, one that is more ambitious and more confident.
You mention the idea of becoming a tantalum supplier for other brands. Is this a path you are now ready to explore?
It is indeed a real possibility. We have developed expertise and a network that would be very difficult to replicate and several brands have already approached us. Many are reluctant to manufacture in China, but we ourselves have no problem with that.
We can supply tantalum or support specific projects – provided that this is consistent with our capacity and our vision. We don’t want to become a “tantalum supermarket”, but rather a credible partner when it comes to meeting extremely high requirements.
