he Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon leads a new generation of Angelus cases. Its sleek and dynamic lines are befitting of the extreme technicality of the timepiece. The red gold crown with wide notches has a rubber insert for improved grip and is protected by an asymmetrical guard projecting from the lugs. The crenellated bezel presents Angelus’ signature slight angular grooves.

Meanwhile, the A-250 skeletonised flying tourbillon calibre is surrounded by an ultra-rigid and ultralight carbon composite container. It is held within an 18K 5N red gold case middle, which reveals another kind of skeletonisation and serves as an openworked vehicle for an openworked movement. To complete the overall effect, the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon comes with a black ballistic-style rubber strap, featuring an interchangeable system and a red gold and titanium folding clasp.

The bridges of the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon form its face. In the absence of a dial, these components play an expressive role in any skeleton movement. And since the main plate of the A-250 calibre is made from woven carbon composite, it is black, accentuating the contrasting 18K red gold bridges. Their volume is also emphasised by their placement above the carbon, arranged in pivotal positions on a higher level.

The bridges are hollowed out, as are the arms of the wheels. The aim of this skeletonisation is to reduce the physical weight of the piece and to lighten the aesthetic impression. After being pared down, these miniature sculptures are chamfered by hand along all their edges. Their flat surface, measuring less than half a millimetre across, then undergoes careful horizontal satin-brushing to give a matte finish. To put the final flourish on these bridges, Angelus has attached them to the main plate using Angelus screws with a proprietary head.

While the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon has no dial, it does have a flange. This component, which marks the transition between bezel and watch interior, is finished with a matte black PVD treatment. It is then graduated with sets of five increments, separated by three-dimensional white gold hour-markers filled with a luminescent substance. Since this flange is placed level with the bezel, it creates a sunken effect that accentuates the feeling of depth in the A-250 calibre.

The star of this Angelus’ multilevel display is the tourbillon. It is situated at 6 o’clock, next to a bridge that does not hold it in place and instead supports the first wheel in the gear train. The tourbillon is only fixed in place from below, making it a flying tourbillon. It is attached directly to the carbon main plate, which is pierced in this spot to give a transparent effect, accentuating the sense of levitation and highlighting the tourbillon’s rotation.

Meanwhile, the balance oscillating within it also has a pared-down construction. Instead of being a ring like most balances, it is a cut, non-circular flywheel. Lighter and more efficient in terms of drag, it further enhances the innate timekeeping performance of an Angelus tourbillon.

The workings are housed within a vast sapphire crystal glass box. This transparent component is angled – almost vertically where it touches the bezel – to provide a large, flat surface for the Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon’s spectacular display: ethereal, technical, graphic, and very Angelus.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Movement

• Calibre: A-250, skeletonised, hand-wound mechanical, one-minute flying tourbillon
• Jewels: 18
• Diameter: 32.60 mm
• Thickness: 5.78 mm
• Power reserve: 90 hours
• Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vph
• Finishes: main plate: carbon fibre / bridges: 18K red gold (5N), satin-finished / wheels: circular-grained / screws: Angelus design / tourbillon carriage: chamfered and hand-polished

Dial

• Flange: black PVD treatment
• 18K white gold hour-markers with Super-LumiNova
• Hands: rhodium-plated, with Super-LumiNova

Case

• Material: 18K red gold (5N) and carbon composite
• Diameter: 42.50 mm
• Thickness: 11.70 mm
• Crystal: sapphire box, anti-reflective coating on both sides
• Back: sapphire, anti-reflecting coating
• Water resistance: 30 metres/3 ATM

Strap

• Interchangeable system
• Material: black “ballistic” rubber
• Buckle: folding clasp, 18K red gold (5N) and titanium

Limited edition

• 18 pieces

Retail price

• CHF 68,900 tax included (subject to change)