Patek Philippe revamps Golden Ellipse chain-style bracelet

May 2024

Patek Philippe revamps Golden Ellipse chain-style bracelet

The manufacture reinterprets this flagship watch of the 1970s by endowing it with an exclusive, brand-new 18K rose gold bracelet. The product of 15 years of development, the 363-part hand-polished bracelet features a modern patented construction that unites comfort with elegance.


ith its instantly recognisable shape, between a circle and a rectangle, and its harmonious proportions inspired by the ancient golden section, the Golden Ellipse has made its mark as a style icon in the Patek Philippe collections. Launched in 1968 with a case in yellow gold and a dial in blue gold, it has since appeared in other hues of gold and with dials of different colors. For its 40th anniversary in 2008, the collection introduced a large model (34.5 x 39.5 mm) in platinum, with a blue sunburst dial (5738P-001) followed in 2018 by a large model in rose gold with an ebony-black sunburst dial (5738R-001).

Patek Philippe revamps Golden Ellipse chain-style bracelet

From the time of its launch and through to the early 1980s the Golden Ellipse collection was proposed, not only on leather straps but on several types of chain bracelet, such as the milanais-style bracelet of Reference 3548 (1968) or the polonais-style bracelet of Reference 3605 (1974). To these must be added a number of link bracelets with particularly distinctive designs. This great creativity expressed in the bracelets added to the aura surrounding this flagship watch of the 1970s, a unique alliance of audacity and balance.

Patek Philippe is revisiting this great era of horological design by proposing Reference 5738 on an elegant chain-style bracelet in rose gold that follows the contours of the wrist and offers superb comfort while also accentuating the finesse of the case. True to its continuous quest for innovation, the manufacture was intent on reinstating the chain bracelet in the collection, but eliminating the technical drawbacks associated with the previous versions, particularly with respect to adjusting the length.

The product of 15 years’ development, the new bracelet in 18K rose gold, hand-polished throughout, is distinguished by its modern, patented construction, which made it possible to recreate the style of the classic chain bracelets. It comprises 363 parts, including more than 300 links, assembled manually one by one. The new bracelet is introduced as an exclusive feature of this Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001. Its modern construction allows the length to be adjusted more easily, whether shorter or longer. The clasp (its cover adorned with an engraved motif continuing that of the bracelet) offers the choice of three adjustment notches.

The ebony-black “sunburst” dial forms a background to baton-style applied hour markers and slender cheveu-style hands, all in rose gold. This timeless, understated aesthetic perfectly reflects the spirit of the Golden Ellipse. A black onyx cabochon set into the crown completes the visual harmony of the design.

Beating inside this model is the self-winding caliber 240, an ultra-thin movement with off-centre mini-rotor in 22K gold allowing for a case with an extremely low profile (5.9 mm) – making the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection. The new Reference 5738/1R-001 joins the regular collection References 5738P-001, 5738R-001 and the Rare Handrafts Reference 5738/51G-001.

Patek Philippe revamps Golden Ellipse chain-style bracelet


Reference 5738/1R-001


  • Caliber 240
  • Ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement
  • Diameter: 27.5 mm
  • Height: 2.53 mm
  • Number of parts: 161
  • Number of jewels: 27
  • Power reserve: Min. 48 hours
  • Winding rotor: Mini-rotor in 22K gold, unidirectional winding
  • Frequency: 21 600 semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
  • Balance: Gyromax®
  • Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
  • Balance spring stud: Adjustable


  • 2-position crown:
    • pushed in: to wind the movement manually
    • pulled out: to set the time


  • By hands:
    • hours and minutes from the center

Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal


  • Case: 18K rose gold
  • Solid back
  • Crown set with a black onyx cabochon
  • Water-resistant to 30 m

Case dimensions

  • From 3 o’clock to 9 o’clock: 34.5 mm
  • From 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock: 39.5 mm
  • Height: 5.9 mm


  • Ebony black “sunburst”
  • Dial plate in 18K gold
  • Cheveu-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold
  • Baton-style applied hour markers in 18K rose gold


  • Chain-style bracelet in 18K rose gold, manually polished throughout, with exclusive patented construction comprising 363 parts, including more than 300 links assembled manually one by one
  • Clasp in 18K rose gold with engraved cover and three adjustment notches

The Europa Star Newsletter