en years ago, during my graduation project in Architecture, and after four years of designing and prototyping my first watch design, a very first client found me online and requested me to build one for his wedding,” recalls Michiel Holthinrichs.

This watch would be the first production model of the at that time just finished prototype of the Ornament 1, world’s first 3D printed stainless steel watch. A timepiece powered by a Perseux 7001, with its recognizable sub-second layout. This special commission signified the beginning of Holthinrichs Watches.

Five years later, against all odds, the company consisted of six people from different backgrounds. “We still carried the Ornament 1, now side by side with the RAW Ornament, designed according to our concept of Horlogerie Brut, where textures, finishes and colours are directly derived from the manufacturing processes and pure materialistic properties. By this time we were able to build in-house dials and even movement components. We changed the 7001 according to our standards, including fine finishes. What remained was the recognizable subseconds register.”

In November 2021, Holthinrichs launched the RAW Ornament Bronze, taking Horlogerie Brut to the highest level, introducing the notion of time and transiency into a physical design language. “We not only introduced a fully bronze monocoque case, we also developed an exceptional copper-oxide dial into an in-house process, copper hands and even a copper plated movement with haute horlogerie finishing. It cannot be more romantic and interactive than a highly finished movement that actively changes appearance over time.”

Fast forward to again five years later, in 2026, the team consists of 16 people, and the atelier celebrate a decade of existence at the end of this year. “By now, we are lucky to have clients worldwide, attend international trade shows and are represented by a selection of global retailers.”

After two successful launches of the Signature LAB (Series 1 and Series 1.24), the brand is about to launch two new models in this experimental line. “This time we pay tribute to our first timepiece from 10 years ago, the Ornament 1, and the timepiece that defined our design principles, the RAW Ornament Bronze. We present Signature LAB 1.S (sub-second) and Signature LAB 1.GMT. The latter, born from the need of a functionality we still missed during our travels and international calls, its GMT register taking our Breguet-inspired font from first introduced in the RAW Ornament Bronze.” Both series are produced as a one-time limited edition of 100 pieces each.

Instantly recognizable as a Holthinrichs LAB 1 model, both timepieces feature a distinctive copper oxide patina dial. This time, however, the designs incorporate the brand’s most challenging reliefs to date. “We have taken the concept of optical layering and patination to an entirely new level.”

Signature LAB 1.S features perhaps the most expressive dial relief the brand has ever created. Deeply carved lines radiate outward from the subdial, strongly emphasizing it within the design in an almost Art Deco stylistic manner. This dramatic pattern creates a lively visual effect: the deepest carvings hold the richest layer of azure-blue oxide patina, contrasting with the more brown-green nuances on the higher levels. The result is an unprecedented optical depth and a strong sense of three-dimensionality within the timepiece.

The dial of the Signature LAB 1.GMT introduces an even more elaborate and delicate design. It features a complex, multi-layered relief with a subtle projection of a globe emerging from the dial surface as an intermediate layer. The Earth is viewed from the North Pole in an azimuthal projection, naturally referencing the radial division of time zones originating from the Earth’s rotational axis, and, in this dial, the position of the watch hands.

The globe is hand-brushed using a micro-brush to selectively remove excess patina, resulting in a darker brown tone that contrasts with the background. The most pronounced layer, the GMT indicators, stands out through its Breguet-style design, brass color, and brushed finishing, creating a striking contrast with the layers beneath.

Both dials are manufactured in-house and by hand through a highly delicate process. Milled and engraved metal plates undergo a repetitive series of steps in which patina is gradually built up in a controlled manner, followed by heat treatment and selective brushing with a soft brush to create subtle variations within the pattern. For the Signature LAB 1.GMT, the process continues with additional selective brushing using a fine aluminum oxide grit.

The LAB Series features a titanium case with the thinnest possible lug structures, defying conventional design logic. This is made possible by pushing the limits of 3D metal printing technology. The design focuses on ergonomics: reduced weight for greater comfort, a curved caseback to improve wrist position and stability, and pronounced curved lugs to embrace the wrist more comfortably.

The case is crafted using high-end selective laser melting, followed by precise milling and extensive hand-finishing. Each print run is limited to 45 cases per build plate, taking up to 48 hours to complete. Each case is individually aligned for machining and undergoes many hours of manual finishing. This process enables structurally bold designs and contrasting surface finishes—combining raw 3D-printed textures with hand-refined details.

These new Signature LAB Series continue using the top grade Sellita SW300 series for reliability and slender dimensions. The highlight remains the unique patinated, handcarved and heat-treated rotor we developed to mirror the spirit of the expressive patina dials. The tungsten weight is scraped and heat-treated to achieve beautifully subtle blue and purple tones.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

LAB 1.S

• Case: 3D-printed Grade 5 titanium, ceramic bead blasted finish with manual brushed finishing on selective surfaces.
• Case diameter: 38.5 mm
• Case thickness: 7.8 mm (excluding crystal), 9.85 mm (including domed sapphire crystal)
• Lug-to-lug: 46 mm
• Weight: 37.7 grams (without strap)
• Dial: Handmade domed copper patina dial (by Holthinrichs) with laser engraved logo.
• Movement: Modified top grade Sellita SW360 with handmade and carved patina rotor
• Strap: Cognac Rooster Leg leather, with titanium buckle and pin (20/16 mm)
• Availability: Limited to 100 pieces; first deliveries expected Q3 2026.
• Price: €5,900 (ex. VAT, including international shipping)

LAB 1.GMT

• Case: 3D-printed Grade 5 titanium, ceramic bead blasted finish with manual brushed finishing on selective surfaces.
• Case diameter: 38.5 mm
• Case thickness: 7.8 mm (excluding crystal), 9.85 mm (including domed sapphire crystal)
• Lug-to-lug: 46 mm
• Weight: 37.9 grams (without strap)
• Dial: Handmade domed copper patina dial (by Holthinrichs) with intricate Azimuth world projection and Breguet-inspired, brushed brass GMT indicators and gold tone GMT hand.
• Movement: Modified top grade Sellita SW330 with handmade and carved patina rotor
• Strap: Burgundy Rooster Leg leather, with titanium buckle and pin (20/16 mm)
• Availability: Limited to 100 pieces; first deliveries expected Q3 2026.
• Price: €6,500 (ex. VAT, including international shipping)