hen it was initially launched in 2022, the Chronomètre FB 3SPC was groundbreaking with its unprecedented combination of a variable-iner tia balance, cylindrical balance spring and chronometer-cer tification (COSC). The model’s technical vir tuosity was immediately recognised by watch aficionados and industr y exper ts, culminating in the Chronomètre FB 3SPC receiving numerous awards, including the prestigious ‘Chronometr y prize’ at the GPHG 2023.

Rooted in chronometric per formance, perpetuating the legacy of Ferdinand Ber thoud and that of his nephew, Louis Berthoud, all the Manufacture’s models are highly precise.

Where the FB 1 and FB 2 achieved this feat using constant-force mechanisms, a different approach was adopted for the FB 3SPC, setting aside the conventional flat balance-spring in favour of a cylindrical balance-spring.

After three years of exhaustive research, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud created a cylindrical balance-spring equipped with two terminal curves, formed by hand, a specially designed collet and a variable-iner tia balance, culminating in the movement being chronometer-cer tified.

Most watches submitted to the COSC for chronometer testing are serially produced and submitted en masse; however, each Ferdinand Ber thoud timepiece is individually crafted, assembled and regulated, making the task of obtaining cer tification far more challenging.

In creating each Chronomètre FB 3SPC by hand, the craftspeople and watchmakers can employ traditional techniques, use materials with inherent longevity and impart refined Haute Horlogerie finishes.

The Chronomètre FB 3SPC is now offered in a new 18-carat 5N rose gold case. Paired with a nickel silver movement, presented in a sandblasted finish, and framed with a beige-varnished inner bezel ring, the model appears almost monochromatic. The tonal contrast between each element is nuanced and endows the model with a seemly, classical appearance.

Beneath the domed sapphire cr ystal front of house, the hours and minutes are indicated with facetted and skeletonised open-tipped hands. Formed of 18-carat gold and blue CVD-treated, the hands confer contrast against the beige-varnished dial small seconds track and inner bezel ring. The seconds hand and power-reserve indicator, together with several screws, introduce smatterings of blue, punctuating the otherwise monochromatic scene.

Of ficially unveiled on the occasion of the opening of Ar t in Time Tokyo, this new Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2-1 in rose gold is a non-limited edition and completes the collection alongside the existing white gold variation, the FB 3SPC.1.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

• Model: Chronomètre FB 3SPC.2-1
• Reference: FB 3SPC.2-1

Case

• Material Ethical 18-carat rose gold
• Shape Round
• Diameter 42.30 mm
• Thickness 9.43 mm
• Water resistance 30 m
• Crown diameter 8.50 mm
• Crystal Domed sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides
• Caseback Exhibition back in 18-carat rose gold with glareproof sapphire crystal
• Special feature Transparent sapphire “porthole” at 9 o’clock

Finishing

• Velvet-finished beige brass inner bezel ring
• Black-varnished engraved numerals
• Beige brass seconds subdial at 6 o’clock
• Sandblasted nickel silver movement
• Gilded gear trains
• Straight-grained natural nickel silver regulating organ bridges
• Brass barrel cover

Hands

• Diamond-polished, skeletonised, open-tipped hour and minute hands
• Blue CVD-treated 18-carat gold
• Blue CVD-treated seconds hand with openworked counterweight
• Blue CVD-treated arrow-shaped power reserve hand

Strap & Buckle

• Strap Alligator leather
• Strap size 125 × 70 mm
• Buckle 18 mm 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
• Optional clasp 18 mm folding clasp with security fastening and length-adjustable blade

Functions

• Central hours
• Central minutes
• Small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock

Movement

• Calibre FB-SPC
• Type Mechanical, hand-wound
• Diameter 34 mm
• Thickness 6.84 mm
• Size 15’’’
• Jewels 47
• Frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
• Power reserve 72 hours
• Components 230
• Bridges 16

Technical Characteristics

• Slip-spring barrel (automatic uncoupling at full wind)
• Variable-inertia balance with four fine-adjustment screws and eight load screws
• Cylindrical balance spring with hand-crafted Berthoud terminal curves
• Swiss lever escapement
• Crown-activated stop-seconds mechanism
• Mainplate and bridges in sandblasted nickel silver
• Hand-finished to the highest watchmaking standards
• Officially COSC chronometer-certified