he combination of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary mindset is very much in keeping with Moritz Grossmann’s own values. The founder and namesake of the manufactory, who was born exactly 200 years ago, was a genius watchmaker as well as an ambitious scientist, a profound author, initiator of the German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, and an impressive personality. Moreover, Moritz Grossmann was forward-thinking in terms of the technical possibilities of his time and always interested in progress and innovation.

The Moritz Grossmann manufactory continues this approach in Glashütte today and, in its special anniversary editions, showcases the exceptional skill cultivated in its own workshops. In the new TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue, it is the art of dial finishing that is highlighted in the most exquisite way.

The dial of the limited-edition TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue has been finished using the silver-plating by friction technique, also known as silver-plating by grit. This process gives the surface a velvety, matt structure with a fascinating optical depth. Silver-plating by friction is a traditional 19th century technique that has been revived in the Moritz Grossmann workshops.

The process is carried out by hand in numerous steps: various powders and liquids – silver powder, salt, tartar and water – are rubbed on and worked in using a small brush. The small brush is repeatedly dipped alternately into the various base materials and moved across the dial. This continues until the surface has taken on a perfect, fine grain and a beautiful silver hue. Each individual step must be executed with the utmost sensitivity. It also requires a great deal of experience to ensure that neither too much nor too little is applied. This is why only a few experts have mastered this traditional technique.

The surface is perfected by a gentle final polish and, in the case of the TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue, also with colour – a blue tinged with green that, thanks to the structure of the silver-plating, appears different from every angle. The interplay of light and shadow, gloss and matt creates a unique effect that adds to the distinctive charm of the TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue.

Contrasting typography serves to highlight the surface of the dial: the engraved Roman numerals are lacquered in blue, while the historic ‘M. Grossmann’ logo from 1875, the minute scale, the seconds scale and the ‘Made in Germany’ inscription are in black. The lacquers were applied before the silver-plating by friction and fired in the kiln.

To ensure the colours are not damaged during further processing, they are coated with a protective lacquer.

The fine typography harmonises with the hands annealed in blue – these, too, are a speciality of the manufactory. Because the hands are crafted in numerous steps in-house. They are given gently rounded lines and an ultra-fine tip by hand, and finally the blue colour through the traditional annealing process.

The new TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue has a diameter of 36 millimetres, making it the perfect companion for any wrist. The case is crafted in a striking stainless steel and has a classic, slimline silhouette.

The flat design makes it all the more comfortable to wear and also ensures an elegant appearance. Characteristic details include the cross groove on the crown, the slim strap lugs and a strap made from hand-sewn grey kudu leather.

The proven calibre 102.1, which is just 3.45 millimetres high with a diameter of 26 millimetres, works its magic inside the TEFNUT 36 Silver-Plated by Friction Turquoise Blue, lending elegance to the case.

The movement’s sophisticated architecture includes all the typical special features of a Grossmann calibre: the hand-wound movement is designed as a classic pillar movement with a three-fifths plate. Other characteristic features include a stepped balance cock with Grossmann micrometer screw and raised chatons.

Both the construction and sophisticated finish are typical of the Glashütte watch manufactory: the barrel bridge bears the distinctive Glashütte ribbing with an inscription, which was engraved by hand. The balance cock is also engraved by hand with a fine, floral pattern and bears the special ‘1826’ engraving to mark the anniversary.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

• Movement: Manufactory calibre 102.1, manual winding, regulated in five positions
• No. of parts 188
• Jewels 22, of which three in screwed gold chatons
• Escapement: Lever escapement
• Oscillator: Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with four inertia screws and two poising screws, Nivarox 1 balance spring
• Balance Diameter: 10.0 mm;
• Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour
• Power reserve: 48 hours when fully wound
• Functions: Hour, minute
• Operating elements: Crown in stainless steel, for winding the watch and setting the time
• Case dimensions: Diameter: 36.0 mm; height: 8.5 mm
• Movement dimensions: Diameter: 26.0 mm; height: 3.45 mm
• Case: Three-part, stainless steel
• Dial: Engraved, set in black and blue and silver-plated by friction by hand
• Hands: Crystal and display back Strap Manually crafted, steel annealed to a blue hue
• Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
• Hand-stitched kudu leather strap with prong buckle in stainless steel
• Grossmann Uhren GmbH August/2026 3/7
• Special features: Shock-resistant balance with inertia and poising screws, impulse pin integrated in rim; flat balance spring; balance staff with integrated safety roller; adjustment with Grossmann micrometer screw; plate movement with 3/5 plate, frame pillars and separately removable clutch winding mechanism; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; remodified Glashütte stopwork with backlash; mainspring barrel with bilateral jewel bearings for optimised power management in the low-torque range; ARCAP train wheels; proprietary escapement with 18-tooth escape wheel, Special ‘1826’ engraving on balance cock