avre Leuba, founded in 1737, caught collectors’ attention when it relaunched in 2024. It is one of the most celebrated names in fine Swiss watchmaking. Its return to the spotlight was entirely independent, driven by the revival of its iconic collections, including Sea Sky, Chief, and 1737.

One model, however, stood out for the tremendous enthusiasm it generated: the Deep Raider Revival dive watch. Favre Leuba’s 2024 relaunch coincided with the 60th anniversary of the watch that inspired it, the 1964 Deep Blue.

This iconic model now marks Favre Leuba’s first collaboration with Jean Rousseau. The partnership brings together Favre Leuba’s nearly three centuries of Swiss watchmaking heritage with Jean Rousseau’s longstanding expertise in fine craftsmanship, creating a distinctive expression of the Deep Raider Revival.

Maison Jean Rousseau was founded in Paris in 1954. It has since become a partner of choice for many leading names in watchmaking. Every stage of strap making is handled in-house, and each strap is made by hand.

The brand operates its own boutiques in Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, and Osaka. The brand is also renowned for its close ties to a discerning community of collectors, for whom it creates bespoke straps for high-end timepieces.

The collaboration comprises three limited editions of the Deep Raider Revival, each limited to 33 pieces, bringing the total to 99 watches. To preserve the qualities that made it a success, the model retains its original specifications.

Its 39 mm diameter remains true to the spirit of the period, as does its vintage green luminescence. It is still powered by La Joux-Perret’s proven G100 automatic movement, operating at 4 Hz and delivering a 68-hour power reserve.

Each version, however, features entirely new design details. Jean Rousseau designed three straps, giving each limited edition a distinct personality. Favre Leuba developed bespoke details for each: hands, logo, and caseback.

Each strap material—leather, fabric, or rubber—is represented by a dedicated symbol designed by Favre Leuba. The underside of the strap bears the exclusive signature of both brands: “JR for Favre Leuba 1737.”

The first variation is as black as the abyss. It is a classic color for dive watch straps, perfectly in tune with the deep-sea icon born in 1964. Jean Rousseau chose leather for this version. Accordingly, the caseback of each of the 33 pieces features a hide-shaped logo. The atelier personalized the strap with beige topstitching, reinforcing the watch’s vintage character. The artisan chose a wave motif that echoes the Deep Raider Revival’s diving credentials. The brand logo at 10:30 and the seconds hand are black to match the strap.

The second variation is crafted in sand-colored technical fabric, a shade naturally at home on a dive watch. The caseback logo takes the form of a planet, symbolizing the natural fiber’s sustainability. Light and radiant, this edition is finished with subtle hand-stitching in a slightly darker brown. Water- and scratch-resistant, the technical fabric feels different from leather on the wrist—silkier and more modern. Favre Leuba pairs it with a sand-colored seconds hand, matching the strap, as well as a logo at 10:30 in the same hue.

The third variation comes in beige rubber. It pairs a technical, on-trend material with an equally contemporary shade. As in the others, this variant features a seconds hand and the logo at 10:30 in the same hue as the strap. The pairing of beige and rubber reinforces the Deep Raider Revival’s versatility: it is equally at home at depths of 300 meters—thanks to its certified water resistance—as it is on the docks, during sports, or in the city. That is why Favre Leuba has added a rubber wheel motif to the caseback: on the road again for a timepiece built to conquer every environment.

Each edition is limited to 33 pieces and comes with a handcrafted strap finished with a deployant clasp engraved with both brands’ signatures.

“We are delighted to have brought our expertise to an iconic brand such as Favre Leuba, developing this limited edition around a strong, meaningful connection between the watch and its strap. This genuine partnership, marked for the first time by an engraving on the caseback, is expressed through a harmonious continuity of colors and materials—from the strap to the deployant clasp and all the way to the hands. We sincerely hope that watch enthusiasts will appreciate the depth, coherence, and attention to detail embodied in this collaboration, both in spirit and on the wrist.” — Anaïs Bordier, Owner and Brand Director, Jean Rousseau

“The Deep Raider Revival pays tribute to our legendary 1964 Deep Blue. Through our partnership with Maison Jean Rousseau, we have combined 70 years of exceptional French craftsmanship with nearly three centuries of Swiss watchmaking expertise. This 99-piece limited edition brings the core values of both houses together harmoniously, down to the smallest details—from the matching hands to the custom-engraved casebacks.” — Patrik Hoffmann, CEO, Favre Leuba

The Deep Raider Revival Jean Rousseau retails at 2’250 CHF 2,250 GBP 2,600 EUR 2,900 USD

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

• Case: 316L stainless steel round case with polished finish, water-resistant to 30 ATM; boxed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating; closed caseback with Jean Rousseau and Favre Leuba logos and a dedicated symbol indicating the strap material
• Diameter: 39mm; 48mm lug-to-lug
• Thickness: 12.75mm
• Movement: FLD01 (based on La Joux-Perret G100)
• Self-winding, approximately 68-hour power reserve
• 28,800 VPH (4 Hz)
• 24 jewels
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and day window
• Bezel: Unidirectional bezel with sapphire insert and Super-LumiNova® X1 luminous triangle
• Old Radium marker
• Dial: Grey sunray finish with Favre Leuba monogram matching the colour of the strap; applied rhodium-plated indexes at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and printed
• Old Radium Super-LumiNova® X1 indexes with green emission
• Hands : Rhodium-plated hands with polished finish and Old Radium Super-LumiNova® X1; seconds hand matching the colour of the strap and dial monogram
• Strap : Jean Rousseau handcrafted strap, available in black calf leather with “soja grain” finish, beige rubber, or brown Seaqual recycled material; folding clasp with Favre Leuba × Jean Rousseau logo; easily interchangeable
• Limited Edition: 33 pieces per variation; 99 pieces in total