very d0g has its day, and apparently for Studio Underd0g, that’s at the weekend. In a Studio Underd0g first, the new 04Series collection unveils a compendium of calendar complications, including a weekend indicator, retrograde pointer date and moonphase display.

The peripheral weekend indicator provides a welcome reminder that Saturday is never really too far away, while the retrograde date never obstructs the moonphase, keeping it clear at all times. Why? You’ll have to speak to the hand about it, because the phase ain’t listening. To achieve these unusual complications, a brand new calibre has been built for the 04Series in partnership with Seagull (who also manufacture the hand-wound chronograph calibre in the 01Series).

This required the design, development, tooling and testing of 34 bespoke components. But just because the 04Series delivers the unexpected when it comes to mechanical function, doesn’t mean design has become the underdog. Four new colour-ways, Cloud10, Arabian Sky, Shepherd’s Delight and 0vercast, plus two case sizes, 37mm and 38.5mm, keep wrists curious.

Calendar watches are notorious for displaying information you don’t really need, so how about something much more important? Everyone knows the weekend is the best part of the week, so that’s what the 04Series prioritises. A display of chamfered windows around the outside of the dial lets you know where the weekends fall for the entire month, aligned with the exact dates. Simply quick-set the weekend display at the beginning of each month and you’ll never fall foul of a fake Friday again. To make extra sure you’re clear where the weekends are, the windows have been CNC cut instead of stamped for additionally crisp refinement. ​

The pointer date is a classic complication that’s so much more elegant than a window. It also works in tandem with the weekend display so you know what dates they fall on. But with the 04Series featuring a moonphase as well, what about those awkward moments when the pointer date obscures your lunar viewing? That simply won’t do. So the 04Series uses a retrograde feature that jumps the pointer date back to one when it reaches the end of the month, never setting foot (or rather, hand) anywhere near the moonphase. The pointer date is very easily quick-set via a hidden pusher at 2 o’clock.

This ambitious project needed a brand new calibre, so Studio Underd0g partnered with Seagull once again to make it happen. But it wasn’t easy. Over the course of two years, no less than thirty-four new parts have been designed, developed, tooled and tested to bring the concept to life. And not only that, but you might also be surprised to learn that this is actually the first automatic movement Studio Underd0g has ever used. This all makes the 04Series the single most complex Studio Underd0g watch by far.

What Studio Underd0g is known for best is the dial, and for the 04Series, no stops have been left un-pulled. Four new colourways, Cloud10, Arabian Sky, Shepherd’s Delight and 0vercast, have been inspired by the views from the office window when longing for the weekend. To make the vintage cues of the 04Series dial not only legible but beautiful as well, multiple layers and finishes have been employed, including a new satin-polish. It may be the most refined Studio Underd0g yet, but that doesn’t mean the colourways can’t have a bit of fun.

It was a difficult decision to choose between a smaller, vintage size and larger, more contemporary size for the 04Series... so the decision was to make both. Both 37mm and 38.5mm case sizes are available. I know what you’re thinking. Yes, it does make a surprising difference. Much better not to compromise, even if it is twice the work. And speaking of no compromises, all that complication and the automatic winding fits inside a case just 10.5mm thick, with an extra 3mm on top for the crystals front and back.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model

• SKUs: 04CLCH, 04ASEM, 04SDNA, 04OVCA
• Reference: Cloud10, Arabian Sky, Shepherd’s Delight, 0vercast
• Case dimensions: Ø37mm / Ø38.5mm * D13.5mm (10.5mm excluding crystal)
• Additional dimensions: 20mm Lug width, 44.5mm Lug to lug
• Architecture: Three-part case construction, screw down case-back and and a signed crown
• Material: 316L Stainless Steel
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal (Double domed front and back)
• Water-resistance: 5 ATM

Movement

• Movement type: Seagull Automatic ST-2115B for Studio Underd0g
• Beat Rate: 28,800 (4hz)
• Accuracy: mt0(s/d) -10/+15
• Winding: Automatic wind system with hacking
• Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde pointer date, weekend indicator, moonphase display
• Power reserve: 42h
• Leather Strap
• Band: 20mm tapered to 16mm strap by The Strap Tailor
• Spring bars: Quick-release
• Buckle: 316L Stainless Steel

Warranty

• Term: Limited 2-year warranty

Price

• SSP: 750 GBP, 1100 USD, 800 EUR, 800 CHF
• Shipping: Free worldwide
• Availability: underd0g.com and by appointment at The D0ghouse from November 17th