Photo: Double Retrograde

Philippe C. Merk wanted first and foremost to put things into perspective. Maurice Lacroix did lay off a handful of employees, but it was simply a question of strategic repositioning of the brand’s offer. From now on, the company is focusing its activities on its flagship collection, its famous Masterpiece line. “More added-value and even more ‘watchmaking’ value of our watches leads us to reduce the volume of our production. This is a strategic repositioning, which we firmly believe in, and which explains the current re-structuring of our production. We are aiming at the long term. But let me assure you. Maurice Lacroix is doing very and will continue to do well in the future. We traversed 2003 in a proper manner and even saw positive development on an international level. Today, Maurice Lacroix has 220 employees around the world, producing 150,000 pieces for a turnover of 95 million Swiss francs, distributed in 45 countries through 4,000 specialized retailers. [Editor’s note: the average price is 633 Swiss francs.]

Noticing the dials
Since its launch, the collection of Masterpiece mechanical watches has been very successful and occupies a central place in the offer and image of the brand. The careful attention given to the creation of the silver dials has been noticed by both the international media as well as more knowledgeable customers. “The intrinsic ‘watchmaking’ values of this collection,” explains Merk, “on a mechanical and qualitative level that are expressed in the slightest detail, combined with a passion for complications, have allowed Maurice Lacroix to acquire the indispensable know-how and legitimacy to become a strong and veritable watch brand.”

Long-term vision
“This orientation, centred around the Masterpiece collection, has become our long-term objective. The already proven success of this line has convinced us that we made the right decision,” adds Merk. “Beyond the product itself, all our marketing efforts and our distribution are planned as a function of this strategic choice. It involves thus a quality modification on all levels -distribution, communication, sales material, window displays, etc…”
On the communication level, this reorientation means that the brand has abandoned the lifestyle campaigns of the last few years in favour of a return to emphasizing the product. “We are positioning ourselves quite clearly in opposition to the fashion brands,” says Philippe Merk. “And, we are giving up the few incursions that we did make into the fashion sector over the past few years. Our message is clear. We are constructing our brand exclusively around the most classic watchmaking values. The current repositioning is a first step in this construction.”

Launches at BaselWorld 2004
The launches of new products at BaselWorld 2004 confirm this very ‘watchmaking’ strategy. Introduced in 2003 in a limited series in platinum, and in rose gold, the superb 'Double Rétrograde’ is available this year in steel and in steel and gold. Its dial is still as remarkable as the earlier models. The complex play of the different surfaces and decorations requires a high level of careful workmanship. For the dial alone, more than four months were needed to develop it. The movement is also a ‘house’ Calibre. Using a Unitas 16 1/2''' as a base, this double retrograde (one 24-hour zone at 12 o’clock) is activated by two distinct spiral springs, a notable particularity. The angled bridges, the beauty of its decoration, and the finishing are showcased by the transpa-rent sapphire crystal case back, in a case measuring 43.5 mm. The large angle of the hands facilitates reading the time, while the simple correctors allow for adjusting the second zone and the retrograde date. A small yet important detail is that the logo ‘ML’ has disappeared from the bracelet, class and discretion oblige. With a retail price a little under 7,000 Swiss francs, this double retrograde should enchant its clientele.

Retrograde day tonneau
Successor to the lunar phase tonneau introduced in 2003, this new model displays retrograde days and a large date. The lovely curved case is very complex. More than 500 operations were required to complete it. The automatic movement with a skeleton oscillating weight is also an in-house development based on an ETA Calibre. The mechanical retrograde concept is different. It functions on the principle of a double rack, and it should be mentioned that this specific module has a tonneau shape, applied to a round calibre. This superb steel tonneau retails for around 6,000 Swiss francs.

Initiating women to mechanical timekeeping
Another of the brand’s notable achievements is a series of three lunar phases in a feminine timepiece, with a very practical large date and small seconds hand. To showcase their femininity, these timepieces are embellished with jewellery elements, including 50 Top Wesselton diamonds set around the bezel, sapphire cabochons, interchangeable leather bracelets available in sky blue, rose or black. They also have beautiful dials – decidedly one of the strong points of the brand – that come in either all silver, which is charming, or a silver centre on mother-of-pearl. These watches are seen as a very logical part of the brand’s current development. The steel and diamond version is offered at around 7,000 Swiss francs. The steel and silver dial models sells for 4,400 Swiss francs, while the steel and silver with mother-of-pearl dial is listed at 4,650 Swiss francs. With this type of price/quality ratio, this line should be quite successful.

A 2004 limited series
The new chronograph limited series proposed in 2004 is made up of 100 pieces in white gold and 150 pieces in rose gold. Another thing to delight collectors is the superb Venus 175 movement that has been modified by Maurice Lacroix watchmakers to include a swan neck and a screw-in balance. Finely decorated with the Côtes de Genève pattern, this wonderful chrono column movement is housed in a case that has been delicately guillochéd using a 19th Century machine.

The other collections
“We are doing with one brand, what the groups are doing with several,” explains Philippe C. Merk before going into detail about the other more recent collections produced by the Zurich brand. The basic offer is a quartz collection called ‘Miros’, which has maintained certain specific design elements such as a crown protection. In general, however, the size has been increased, the bracelets reworked, the dials made more elaborate. The overall combination gives a greater impression of elegance and contemporary classicism, notably with the addition of a chrono large date.

Between this collection and the Masterpiece is an intermediate line called ‘Pontos’. This is the entry-level mechanical watch, equipped with simple complications. Targeting a younger clientele, the aim of this collection is to attract and keep a certain client base. Simple and stylistically elegant, this family comes with a bracelet equipped with a fold-over clasp, three hands, day/date and GMT in noticeably larger sizes. The flagship model is a 16’’’ watch with a large ‘small seconds’ hand.

An original niche
“We are strong and active in a niche that is quite original,” declares Merk. “We are in fact positioned just below the large traditional manufacturers. But our products offer an exceptional plus-value.” It is upon this excellent price/quality foundation that Maurice Lacroix intends to build its very ‘watchmaking’ future. The enterprise is already largely integrated and has mastered the production of its cases as well as the technical development of its complications modules and assembly. The dials are entrusted to a unique partner.
The brand’s integration also involves its distribution. With help from its owner, the international distribution and trading group Desco de Schültess, Maurice Lacroix has integrated large areas of its distribution around the world. As far as markets go, Asia, piloted by Desco, represents 15% of sales. The energetic United States market has a direct subsidiary and accounts for another 15%. Europe, with Germany as its most important market with a direct subsidiary, accounts for 30%.