hat’s how a watch becomes a message. Better still, a symbol. The very image of sharing. Louis Erard has made a habit of opening up the field of vision of contemporary watchmaking, by inviting architects, artists, craftsmen and independent watchmakers. This new collaboration with Geneva-based Cédric Johner is at the crossroads of all these paths.

In his own words, Cédric Johner practices “intuitive watchmaking”. In other words, he makes his watches without plans. He makes a first component, then the next, which will fit in. And so on, until the finished, decorated watch. Watch after watch, one at a time, on demand, just a few units a year. He often starts with existing movements. He loves vintage mechanisms. He selects them for the balance of their architecture, for their condition. Then he dismantles them, restores them, decorates them and reassembles them. He then moves on to the trim, which he makes in his workshop, by hand, starting with raw or barely shaped metal, which he manufactures on conventional machines. No plans, no computer assistance.

He works alone. And with just his two hands, he can do anything. How does he do it? That’s the story of Cédric Johner. A craftsman in a class of his own, he has lived through all the changes in the industry and practised every trade. His career began with an apprenticeship as a jeweller with Chopard. He went on to train as a watchmaker. But it was practice that taught him everything. He took advantage of every opportunity and every encounter to learn.

He became self-employed immediately after completing his apprenticeship. Putting himself at the service of customers, he made bespoke pieces. Jewellery, bracelets, cases, complete watches. One day in the 1990s, he took the plunge and made his first watch, for himself. He designed a case, which he named Abyss. A unique design. One of its distinctive features is a hexagonal dial opening. On this basis, he would indulge in all manner of variations, from three hands to grand complications. He developed his own decorations, using the traditional machines such as his tapestry of beads made with a perloir, a pure jeweller’s tool.

There was one thing missing: to create a less exclusive piece, not reserved for collectors, but without making any concessions and retaining all the signatures of his art.

It was at that moment when Manuel Emch, both Artistic Director and CEO of Louis Erard, reached out to Cédric Johner. Having already established a mutual understanding and shared values, their meeting was more akin to a reunion. Their handshake symbolised a bridge connecting two distinct realms: the realm of artistic watches and that of refined yet accessible watchmaking. Thus, the partnership was born. Their shared vision can be succinctly captured in a few words: to craft a limited series that exudes the refinement of a bespoke piece, without compromising on quality or craftsmanship.

The awaited unveiling has arrived. Behold the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner, presented in two exquisite variations: one adorned with a captivating blue dial, the other boasting a striking mauve hue. Limited to just two editions, each comprising 178 meticulously crafted pieces. All the signatures are present. Louis Erard’s, the Excellence case, the fir-tree crown, the regulator calibre.

The unmistakable essence of Cédric Johner is also evident, epitomising unparalleled craftsmanship. The extreme sophistication of the dial, with its engraved guilloché decoration and concave turned hour and minute counters to add contrast and volume. The iconic hexagonal bezel opening further adds to its distinctive allure. witness the meticulously adorned automatic movement, each delicately decorated by the skilled hand of Cédric Johner with 230 intricately crafted beads, meticulously placed one by one, oscillating weight by oscillating weight, within the confines of his workshop.

Together, we’re always stronger.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner ref. 85249AA02.BVA153
Price excl. tax: CHF 4’000

Movement

• Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre, 111⁄2’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight decorated by Cédric Johner, approx. 38 hours of power reserve

Functions

• HMS
• Hour hand in counter at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, seconds hand in counter at 6 o’clock

Case

• Polished stainless steel, Ø39 mm, lug width: 20 mm, lug to lug: 45.90 mm, thickness: 12.82 mm, 3 pieces, domed hexagonal sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent black caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown

Dial

• Mauve or blue PVD dial base with sunray pattern, hour flange at 12 o’clock and seconds flange at 6 o’clock, circular satin-finished in anthracite with polished angles, white transfers

Hands

• Polished rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hands

Bracelet

• Grey grained calf leather bracelet with tone-on-tone stitching, black grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, ergot bars for quick strap change.
• Dimensions: 20/18mm width, 80/115 mm length

Collaboration

• Watch developed with Cédric Johner in a limited edition of 178 pieces for each colour