Archives & heritage

A history of watch advertising: 1900-1919

By Marco Strazzi

June 2023

A history of watch advertising: 1900-1919

By Marco Strazzi

June 2023

A history of watch advertising: 1900-1919

T

he turn of the 20th century marked the emergence of the wristwatch as a commercial product. While women embraced the new accessory, men and industry insiders were sceptical.

Why wear a watch on your arm, exposing it to shocks and the vagaries of the weather, when you can rely on a tried and tested, well-protected pocket watch? Consequently, the pocket watch maintained its market dominance, shaping the marketing strategies of manufacturers who continued to prioritise it.

1905: In this 1905 Longines ad, the pocket watch is the undisputed star. Its popularity remains unchallenged (for now). — 1905: In this 1905 Longines ad, the pocket watch is the undisputed star. Its popularity remains unchallenged (for now).

It wasn’t until the 1910s that the focus began to shift, primarily as a result of the outbreak of World War I. The coordination of wartime operations required practical, durable and water-resistant timepieces. To meet these novel demands, manufacturers developed and patented innovative solutions. Newspaper advertisements showcased features such as waterproof cases, fixed or removable metal grids to protect the glass, and luminescent indices and hands for reading the time in the dark. These ads captured the pressing needs and concerns of the era.

1908: In the first decade of the 20th century, wristwatches were primarily a feminine accessory, as demonstrated by this Omega timepiece featuring an innovative extendible bracelet. — 1908: In the first decade of the 20th century, wristwatches were primarily a feminine accessory, as demonstrated by this Omega timepiece featuring an innovative extendible bracelet.

The Swiss industry dominated the international market, supplying timepieces to numerous armies worldwide. However, the United States also produced models designed to withstand harsh environments. In 1919, the trade press published the first advertisement linking a wristwatch to a celebrated figure and achievement: aviator Roland Rohlfs and his altitude record.

1910: Patented in Germany, this elastic clasp can be attached to a strap or metal bracelet, making it possible to convert a small pocket watch into a wristwatch – the ideal accessory for style-conscious women (Béguelin-Piaget).

1914: An early Swiss specialist in water-resistant cases was François Borgel. Two pocket models and one wristwatch are showcased in this ad. The wristwatch gained the trust of soldiers on the front lines of the Great War.

1916: Wartime demands inspire another innovation: a removable metal grid to minimise the risk of glass breakage (Idéal). — 1916: Wartime demands inspire another innovation: a removable metal grid to minimise the risk of glass breakage (Idéal).

1919: From the trenches to aviation records: the waterproof Depollier model, adopted by the American military during the war's final months, accompanied pilot Roland Rohlfs on his 10,000-metre altitude ascent. This advertisement devotes extensive text to its features – an unusual approach in an age dominated by image-rich ads. — 1919: From the trenches to aviation records: the waterproof Depollier model, adopted by the American military during the war’s final months, accompanied pilot Roland Rohlfs on his 10,000-metre altitude ascent. This advertisement devotes extensive text to its features – an unusual approach in an age dominated by image-rich ads.

EXPLORE ALL OUR EDITIONS SINCE THE 1930s ONLINE

WATCH FILES
Archives & heritage

1972: the Swissonic 100 Chronograph, a singular swiss solution

1972: the Swissonic 100 Chronograph, a singular swiss solution

At the height of the quartz crisis, the Swiss watch industry did not merely defend itself: it invented alternatives. Among them, the Swissonic 100 (…)

The fascinating face of time - Tissot in Chicago, 1893

The fascinating face of time - Tissot in Chicago, 1893

As an exhibitor and member of the international watchmaking jury at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893, Charles-Emile Tissot, the director of the watchmaking (…)

Tissot and the World's Fairs (1878-1893)

Tissot and the World’s Fairs (1878-1893)

Against all the odds and despite living in the middle of nowhere, watchmakers were great travelers. It is easy to imagine how these pioneers were welcomed (…)

When Longines patented the Flyback: a 90-year legacy

When Longines patented the Flyback: a 90-year legacy

On June 16, 1936, the publication of a patent marked a decisive turning point in the history of watchmaking and aviation. By introducing the flyback (…)

Tudor: the first century (1926–2026)

Tudor: the first century (1926–2026)

Rolex’s little sister joins the exclusive circle of centenarian brands this year. Discreet in its communication yet unwaveringly faithful to its founding (…)

Inside the Patek Philippe Museum: a conversation with Dr Peter Friess

Inside the Patek Philippe Museum: a conversation with Dr Peter Friess

For Dr Peter Friess, it all began in the 1970s with the restoration of clocks by the extraordinary Renaissance master Jost Bürgi. More than a decade ago, he (…)

The Adventurers of Time

The Adventurers of Time

Once upon a time... there was watchmaking! The watches we wear today stem from enduring collective effort, the fruit of a long series of inventions (…)

Who fired first, the French or the English?

Who fired first, the French or the English?

PORTRAITS

The extraordinary inventiveness of French and English watchmakers in the Age of Enlightenment paved the way for the “classical” mechanical horology that we (…)

Vintagemania: a fresh look at generations of archives

Vintagemania: a fresh look at generations of archives

We asked eighteen experts, designers, watchmakers, retailers and enthusiasts, mainly from the younger generation, to select and comment on articles from our (…)

LVMH and the relaunch of Daniel Roth

LVMH and the relaunch of Daniel Roth

GUEST COLUMN

L’usage d’une marque ayant un passé peut donner l’idée d’une réduction des risques. Elle véhicule également le message d’un retour aux sources. Parmi les (…)

A history of Swiss watches in India

A history of Swiss watches in India

GUEST COLUMN

The introduction of Swiss watches to India can be traced back to the 19th century, when the subcontinent’s increasing interactions with Europe made Swiss (…)

On the difficulties of waking a sleeping beauty: the case of Léon Hatot

On the difficulties of waking a sleeping beauty: the case of Léon Hatot

GUEST COLUMN

In an industry that values history and heritage, there is great temptation to revive old names, as recent examples have shown. The Europa Star archives are (…)

The Royal Oak Concept through the Europa Star archives

The Royal Oak Concept through the Europa Star archives

AP x ES SERIES

Last time, Stephen Foskett took us on an epic deep dive into the Royal Oak Offshore through the Europa Star archives, showing how “the Beast” smashed (…)

The Tissot saga in the United States (1848–1876)

The Tissot saga in the United States (1848–1876)

Tight links were established between the Tissot family from Le Locle and the United States from very early on. In 1848, Charles-Emile crossed the ocean for (…)

Breitling, 140 years of acceleration

Breitling, 140 years of acceleration

Breitling is celebrating 140 years spanning a history of firsts, recent developments and a “legendary future” – its slogan since 2017 when it was acquired (…)

“Recognition for John Arnold is our priority”

“Recognition for John Arnold is our priority”

INTERVIEW

Pascal Béchu is the new managing director of Arnold & Son and Angelus, having previously headed up global sales. He intends to use his tenure to (…)

In the Mood for Tissot: the debut in Hong Kong (1920–1997)

In the Mood for Tissot: the debut in Hong Kong (1920–1997)

It is always interesting to re-evaluate Tissot’s business choices and activities in China from a present-day perspective. Just recently, 2023 saw the launch (…)

Understanding the history of Rolex through Europa Star archives

Understanding the history of Rolex through Europa Star archives

GUEST COLUMN

Pierre-Yves Donzé’s opus on the history of Rolex is a publishing phenomenon. “The Crown” is already the subject of numerous books, written from a (…)

Should we colourise the past?

Should we colourise the past?

EDITORIAL

A kind reader* recently sent us this photograph, which shows Europa Star’s founder, our ancestor Hugo Buchser, in a new light. While we’re used to seeing (…)

Micromégas: an astonishing encyclopaedia of Time, rediscovered

Micromégas: an astonishing encyclopaedia of Time, rediscovered

Between 1964 and 1970, a rich, well-documented and fascinating encyclopaedia of Time with a revolutionary graphic design for its day, was published by Les (…)

The fragmentation of watch fairs is a reflection of the market

The fragmentation of watch fairs is a reflection of the market

COLUMN

In the 1990s, journalist Pascal Brandt reported Alain-Dominique Perrin’s memorable comment on “the smell of grilled sausages” at Baselworld, signalling the (…)

“Distribution will be the battlefield of the next century”

“Distribution will be the battlefield of the next century”

After Fine Watchmaking and its icons, Pascal Brandt takes this new column into the sensitive – and totally transformed – terrain of watch distribution, (…)

Once Upon a Time: Tissot in Shanghai (1920–1948)

Once Upon a Time: Tissot in Shanghai (1920–1948)

The evocation of Tissot’s past presence in Shanghai resonates with its present, with the opening of a new boutique on Nanking Road - the very place where (…)

In Time with Fashion: Tissot in Shanghai (1920–1948)

In Time with Fashion: Tissot in Shanghai (1920–1948)

Tissot’s first steps in China took it backstage into the vibrant world of Shanghai cinema. Carried by the most famous actresses of the time, its timepieces (…)

The watch industry, Switzerland and the USSR under Stalin

The watch industry, Switzerland and the USSR under Stalin

In February 1941, after hard-fought negotiations, Switzerland and the USSR signed a trade agreement that floundered on the rock of anti-communism.

It's raining icons

It’s raining icons

COLUMN

After “Haute Horlogerie”, Pascal Brandt takes on another twenty-first-century buzzword: “icon”. His starting point is again one of his past articles for (…)

Will the real Haute Horlogerie please stand up (again)?

Will the real Haute Horlogerie please stand up (again)?

FEATURE

In the 1990s, the respected journalist and watch expert Pascal Brandt was a regular contributor to Europa Star. Three decades later, he’s back to review (…)

1933: The origins of Nivarox and Incabloc

1933: The origins of Nivarox and Incabloc

Two revolutionary technologies emerged nearly simultaneously in 1933. Nivarox and Incabloc addressed the key shortcomings of watches in daily use: accuracy (…)

Hunting Treasures: Zenith's Heritage Department

Hunting Treasures: Zenith’s Heritage Department

Zenith’s Manufacture in Le Locle holds many treasures: its staff, for one, its buildings, which have stood on the same ground since 1865, its collections, (…)

Olivier Laesser: the great escapement

Olivier Laesser: the great escapement

At the end of an unprecedented investigation, this doctor in horology has drawn a “family tree” of the escapement through the centuries, introducing some (…)

1900-2000: A history of watch advertising

1900-2000: A history of watch advertising

A history of watch advertising: 1990-2000

A history of watch advertising: 1990-2000

A history of watch advertising: 1980-1989

A history of watch advertising: 1980-1989

A history of watch advertising: 1970-1979

A history of watch advertising: 1970-1979

A history of watch advertising: 1960-1969

A history of watch advertising: 1960-1969

A history of watch advertising: 1950-1959

A history of watch advertising: 1950-1959

A history of watch advertising: 1930-1939

A history of watch advertising: 1930-1939

A history of watch advertising: 1920-1929

A history of watch advertising: 1920-1929

The story of the Tissot Ping-Han Railway Watch

The story of the Tissot Ping-Han Railway Watch

Swiss watches for Chinese trains: the story of the Ping-Han Railway is fascinating in more ways than one. Its construction between the end of the 19th (…)

Becoming Chopard

Becoming Chopard

EUROPA STAR ARCHIVES

Chopard is one of the many “sleeping beauties” in the watch industry to have been stirred back to life, as illustrated by the Europa Star archives. This was (…)

Anarchists and watchmakers

Anarchists and watchmakers

Two recent events - Florian Eitel’s extensively researched publication, Le Vallon horloger et ses anarchistes, and Cyril Schäublin’s film Unrueh (Unrest) - (…)

From the archives: our first look at the Swatch

From the archives: our first look at the Swatch

ANNIVERSARY SERIES

It has often been said that the Swatch saved the Swiss watch industry, and March 1, 2023 marks 40 years since its introduction. Although this view is mostly (…)

Louis Cottier's archives to be digitised

Louis Cottier’s archives to be digitised

The Watch Library Foundation (TWL) and the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Genève (MAH) have joined forces to digitise the watchmaking archives of Louis (…)

A brief history of watch designers (which remains to be written)

A brief history of watch designers (which remains to be written)

CHRONICLE

The anniversary of the Royal Oak was the opportunity to celebrate Gérald Genta, not only for the creations he developed for numerous watchmakers but also (…)

Lang 1943: several decades in a single watch

Lang 1943: several decades in a single watch

Honouring the legacy of 1940s-born watchmaker Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, who founded the Chronoswiss brand in the 1980s, this new project relying on 1960s Marvin (…)

Reviving a watch brand: a risky venture

Before the 1970s, Switzerland was home to a record number of watch brands, many of which collapsed during the quartz crisis. Over the past twenty years, (…)

The second life of watch archives

The second life of watch archives

EDITORIAL

Just imagine: a new, horological Library of Alexandria, accessible at the click of a button to journalists, collectors, designers, historians and enthusiasts.

Looking back, to move forward

Looking back, to move forward

EDITORIAL

The act of digitising archives not only dusts them off and freshens them up; by cataloguing them digitally, with the help of artificial intelligence, it (…)

Debunking the Quartz Crisis

Debunking the Quartz Crisis

The distinction between vintage and modern is often drawn at the beginning of the 1980s, when nearly every Swiss watchmaking company failed. Although widely (…)

Launch of The Watch Library Foundation

Launch of The Watch Library Foundation

HERITAGE

The mission of The Watch Library Foundation is to digitise and make accessible hundreds of thousands of pages and documents of watchmaking heritage, in line (…)