nhorgenta celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with strong growth and transformation. How did the 2025 edition build on that?

Once again, the exhibition halls were filled with energy, innovation, and surprises. It’s hardly surprising, given the spectacular jewellery on display — it was pure joy! Compared to other sectors, we are performing strongly. Building on the momentum of our 50th anniversary in 2024, we set new benchmarks and achieved remarkable growth, especially in terms of international expansion.

This year, 1,334 brands from 38 countries participated, a 3.4% increase over 2024, which had already seen an impressive 9% rise. The Salon Suisse expanded to feature 13 Swiss watch brands, while the Pavillon Francéclat nearly doubled in size. India, as the guest country, was represented by more than 50 exhibitors in partnership with the Indian Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC).

Our pioneering collaboration with the Fondation Haute Horlogerie (FHH) also boosted our international presence, injected fresh momentum, and contributed to strong visitor satisfaction. Inhorgenta 2025 has further cemented its position as Europe’s leading platform for jewellery, watches, and gemstones — giving the entire industry a strong tailwind and allowing us to look ahead with confidence.

Since Baselworld’s closure in 2019, has Inhorgenta benefited from the gap it left behind?

The industry clearly needs strong physical events where brands and buyers can meet, network, and showcase their products — and that’s exactly what Inhorgenta provides. Covering the entire value chain has been our unique selling point since 1974, reflected in our original name: “International Trade Fair for Watches, Jewellery, Gemstones, and Silverware" (including manufacturing and operating facilities).

The vacuum left by Baselworld has indeed created opportunities for us to attract independent and mid-sized luxury brands, strengthening our international profile. But our growing recognition and reach are primarily the result of our consistent strategic development. We began repositioning Inhorgenta back in 2016, well before Baselworld’s difficulties became apparent, and we have steadily evolved the event every year since.

Which sectors are currently experiencing the most growth?

We are delighted to see growth across all segments. In jewellery, the arrival of brands such as Krisonia, Terzihan, and Yoko London has been especially exciting. The watch sector is enjoying a revival too, with new highlights including Pavillon Francéclat, Eberhard & Co., Favre Leuba, and Fossil. Meanwhile, our Carat hall dedicated to gemstones remains highly relevant, particularly for goldsmiths. We are continuously working to inject fresh energy — most recently by participating in the ICA Congress in Brazil to build new international partnerships.

What are the strongest trends shaping the jewellery market of tomorrow?

The market is evolving more quickly than just a few years ago, driven by shifts in consumer behaviour, digitalization, and cultural change. Forecasts predict annual global growth of 4.8% until 2034. Demand for high-quality jewellery and mechanical watches is strong, with many buyers now also viewing them as investments.

On the creative side, statement pieces are in vogue: oversized earrings, chunky chains, sculptural cuffs, and bold bangles. Sustainability and responsible sourcing of gemstones and precious metals remain top priorities. At the same time, digitalization is fuelling a countertrend: personalization and individuality. Many jewellers are responding with bespoke creations to satisfy the growing desire for uniqueness.

India was the partner country this year. Long seen as a potential luxury powerhouse, is that promise becoming reality?

India is undoubtedly one of the world’s most dynamic economies, and its luxury market is growing rapidly thanks to rising affluence and a strong middle class. For our partner country, the focus is on exports to Europe. With jewellery exports worth USD 32 billion, the sector is the star of the Indian economy. The planned free trade agreement with the European Union should give this growth even greater momentum. Exhibitors at the India Pavilion and the GJEPC were very satisfied, and most plan to return next year.

Sustainability is becoming a central concern. How is this reflected at Inhorgenta?

Sustainability and responsibility in the jewellery and gemstone supply chain are increasingly vital. We have been highlighting these issues at Inhorgenta for several years. Consumers now expect transparency about the origins of materials and production conditions. Many gemstones and precious metals have long been recycled due to their value and recyclability, though this is not always communicated clearly.

Beyond consumer demand, regulations are tightening. The European Union’s Green Deal has triggered new frameworks, such as the CIBJO Guidelines for Measuring ESG Performance and the Responsible Jewellery Council standards. Initiatives like Sustainable Jewellery Day in Pforzheim and the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 — presented at Inhorgenta by its CEO, Iris van der Veken — are also shaping the landscape.

Still, the requirements of more than 16 different laws pose significant challenges, especially for smaller and mid-sized exhibitors. Large fashion groups sometimes have over 25 employees working exclusively on ESG compliance — more than many of our exhibitors employ in total. Even they struggle with costs and implementation. The new EU Commission is therefore debating adjustments to make these requirements more practical.

How does Inhorgenta itself integrate sustainability and ESG topics into its offering?

We make ESG a core part of our program, acting as both a platform for forward-looking solutions and as a sustainable event organizer ourselves. In the Sustainability Area and TrendFactory, innovative projects are presented, from gemstone traceability using blockchain to Fairtrade gold certification and new ISO standards for recycled gold.

This year, diamonds were a particular focus: the benefits of natural versus synthetic diamonds and the risks of greenwashing were discussed in depth. Sustainability is also anchored in Messe München’s corporate strategy. Our goal is to be CO₂-neutral by 2030. For more than 25 years, we have been improving the sustainability of our exhibition grounds, from one of the world’s largest photovoltaic roof systems to extensive green spaces, rainwater use, LED lighting, and CO₂-neutral energy.

For visitors, we aim to minimize emissions by offering subway connections, GoGreen tickets with climate offsets, 110 EV charging stations, and water dispensers across the halls.

The appetite for gold, diamonds, and gemstones remains strong, even though they carry the highest social and environmental impacts. How can this paradox be addressed?

It is indeed a contradiction and a central concern for the industry. Many initiatives are working towards more ethical sourcing and fair production practices, while consumer awareness has risen sharply. Yet demand continues to grow. Zalando calls this the “attitude–behaviour gap”: we do not always act according to our values.

Solutions must come from society as a whole, starting with fair legal frameworks that create equal obligations and opportunities for all. Meanwhile, every company and individual can take smaller steps toward sustainability, always aiming for ASAP — As Sustainable As Possible.

The next edition of INHORGENTA will take place in Munich from February 20–23, 2026. Companies are already securing their places.