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ew materials free the imagination and offer new creative fields to the watchmaking industry. They bring color, impose transparency, offer lightness combined with resistance, allow new combinations, as demonstrated by these few recently released watches.
BULGARI OCTO TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE
In a 44mm DLC-coated titanium case topped with a sapphire
glass nestles the hand-wound flying tourbillon manufacture
movement Calibre BVL 206. The bridges are coated with DLC
(Diamond-Like Carbon) and composed of 11 tubes of ITR2 (a
composite material charged with carbon nanotube particles
of a metal-like hardness) which contain blue SLN (a
high-tech luminescent material); hour and minute indication,
64hr power reserve.
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK CONCEPT FLYING TOURBILLON GMT
A new generation of the Royal Oak Concept GMT with flying
tourbillon: the central bridges, originally crafted in ceramic,
have been replaced by bridges made of blackened titanium.
The case is also crafted in blackened titanium, the bezel in ceramic
and the inserts in rose gold.
RADO HYPERCHROME CHRONOGRAPH
Big-time contrast for this 45mm Hyperchrome Chronograph in
which Rado, a ceramic pioneer, combines an ancient material
with a brand-new one: bronze with high-tech ceramic. One
takes on a patina with time and the other resists (nearly) everything.
A vintage effect for a bright future.
CHANEL CERAMIC MARQUETRY
Referred to as “Untitled 2018”, this set includes twelve unique J12
watches crafted in ceramic marquetry. In deep black against
an immaculate background, the shortened digits overlap onto
the bezel to which they extend. A demonstration of the watchmaking
and artistic heights possible with ceramic.
ROLEX GMT-MASTER II WITH TWO-TONE BEZEL
When innovation inches forward without ever changing an
icon. In 1955, the graduated 24-hour disc of the GMT-Master’s
two-tone bezel – which has since become more than emblematic
– was made of plexiglas. In 1959, it was made of anodised
aluminium. In 2005, high-tech ceramic arrived on the scene
with the GMT-Master II. In 2007, the bezel and bezel disc were
crafted from a single piece of what officially became known as
“Cerachrom”, the name given to the in-house technology. The
digits and graduations are moulded in solid material and PVDplated
with gold or platinum. The piece is UV-resistant.
BLUE CERAMIC GRAND SEIKO HI-BEAT GMT
A new, limited edition that harmoniously combines a number
of materials: the interior of the watchcase and the exterior of
the strap are crafted in high-intensity titanium. The exterior of
the case and central links of the strap are made of the new
Grand Seiko blue zirconium oxide ceramic (7x harder than
stainless steel). Behind the sapphire caseback, the titaniumand-
tungsten oscillating mass resists distortion, even if the
watch encounters a shock. The titanium portion of the oscillating
mass undergoes an anodic oxidation process to obtain
this new deep blue hue, which perfectly coordinates with the
Grand Seiko blue of the ceramic and dial.
LOUIS MOINET SUNDANCE
Each of the dials in the Sundance collection is unique and
manufactured following a method considered by Louis Moinet
to be “totally disruptive”. A key element in this process is a
powder composed of microscopic particles that illuminate
when exposed to the light. The brand will not confirm if differing
doses of this chromatic, luminous base are the sole reason
for the unique appearance of each dial.
Whatever the reason, the intensity of the Sundance’s “disruptive”
colours is quite stunning.
CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW REAL MOON 1980 AVENTURINE GLASS
Christiaan van der Klaauw is known worldwide for its astronomical
watches. But the atelier is also famous for their Aventurine
Glass dials, a real Van der Klaauw signature used since the early
years of 2000. Why is an Aventurine Glass dial so special? It
changes with the light. It can be subtle and dark, it can be a little
bit sparkly, and it can be just amazingly alive with an incredible
depth, creating a true almost three-dimensional starry sky.
Aventurine Glass is a very difficult material to work with and
therefore very expensive. The process of making it is a well kept
secret, creating a starry sky around the brand’s astronomical
complications.
CENTURY EMPIRE
The octagonal faceted sapphire watchcase dates from 1988.
A pure, simple design that never goes out of style. Hand-cut
and polished, the design is back in the deep colours of lapis
lazuli. The material is captured between two layers of sapphire,
magnifying the radiance of the blue and perfectly protecting it.
This unprecedented technique offers a thousand creative possibilities,
including the use of the most fragile materials. Yellow
gold, satin, quartz movement.
HAUTLENCE VORTEX GAMMA MAGMA
To decorate its Vortex Gamma Magma model, Hautlence has
chosen HLLightColor, a composite material borrowed from the
automobile and aerospace industries. Charged with ceramic
nanotube particles, HLLightColor possesses the strength and
other properties that are identical to the metals used in the
watch industry, all the while being four times lighter than
titanium. It can be worked with the same precision and the
same tolerance, and allows for complex finishes, alternating
between brushed, polished and sanded surfaces. Additionally,
this material opens up a huge range of possibilities from an
aesthetic point of view. With a full-body tint, the HLLightColor
comes in a wide variety of colours, like this Vortex Gamma
Magma in orange.
BELL & ROSS BR-X1 SKELETON TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE
The case of the BR-X1 Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire is crafted
from five blocks of sapphire that are carefully machined before
being screwed together with the greatest precision. The flying
tourbillon bridges are fully openworked, and the dial is set offcentre
to afford the best possible view of the movement.
Just three unique pieces will be presented – including two
exclusively sold online – in three different shades, each used
a single time to colour the baseplate, bridges, dial, hands and
tourbillon cage.
STROM AGONIUM “IN MEMORIAM HR GIGER”
Silver is not a new material; it is as old as the Earth itself.
Though it is not technologically advanced, is neither a miracle
powder nor a composite, nor is it resistant to tarnishing, it alone
allows for the sculpture of truly three-dimensional items,
Gothic cathedrals for the wrist, hand-made pieces that
would be impossible to create with any other metal. Antique
materials still have some life left in them!
HR Giger, the creator of the creature from Alien, would not have
denied this. Prior to his death in 2014, he worked on this piece
with his friend Daniel Strom. In memory of this friendship, three
years later, Strom released this joint achievement, named the
“In Memoriam HR Giger”, of which only 99 units exist.
HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO RED MAGIC
After the Magic Gold in scratch-resistant 18-karat gold, meet
Red Magic, the brainchild of the Hublot Manufacture R&D
centre. Its exceedingly strong ceramic boasts a more-thanlively
colour and is protected by a series of patents: the exact
formula remains confidential.
CORUM HOBO COIN
Nickel, the humblest of metals, used since 3500 BC, cannot really
be considered an advanced material. But Russian engraver
Aleksey Saburov has brought it back to life in a novel fashion,
along with its history, by re-engraving rare hobo coins, named
as such as they were the smallest of small change, created in
nickel by travelling workers who wandered the United States
in the wake of the Great Depression. He has added his own
twist to the legend in popular images from the time to create
micro sculptures that each become the unique dial of a Corum
Hobo Coin.
YUNIK LADIES
Since the 13th century, the glassmakers of Murano have trained
among Venice’s richest families. Masters of a skill then considered
to be high-tech, they pushed the art of glassmaking to its
very limit. Each glass has unique colours and patterns,
just like each Yunik Ladies watch, the dials and cases of which
are made from authentic Murano glass. It is as much a gift from
sand as it is from the master-glassmakers.
