Over-use by watchmakers – and others – of the Bauhaus school’s
famous founding phrase “form follows function” has turned it into
a rather hackneyed expression.
Over-use by watchmakers – and others – of the Bauhaus school’s
famous founding phrase “form follows function” has turned it into
a rather hackneyed expression.
B
ut make no mistake, the most
beautiful watches – and the most timeless – are without a doubt
those which vanish discreetly behind their assigned function:
that of telling the time as accurately, simply, clearly and legibly as
possible. Of being the purest possible expression of their function. Following this adage, a watch is round (because the needle describes
a circle), devoid of any superfluous decoration and gets straight to
the point. Every detail – if detail there be – has a meaning, a defined
function, and is as discreet yet as visible as possible.
Purity is a form of
politeness. A watch is not there to be seen, but to inform, discreetly and
elegantly.
Purity is a form of
politeness. A watch is not there to be seen, but to inform, discreetly and
elegantly.
But this discretion is what makes it so beautiful and timeless.
Its raison d’être is to blend into the background while telling the time
for as long as we desire. Consequently, you can’t help but see it.
HERMÈS SLIM GMT
A simple description suffices: an ultra-thin case just 9.48mm
thick; an understated display on a slate-grey dial with a slender
typeface; a silvered GMT counter with its cluster of figures;
fine, sandblasted or blue-lacquered baton hands; and perfect
legibility. Consistent with this, the interior houses an ultra-thin
manufacture movement by Hermès – the H1950, 2.6mm thick –
over which lies an ultra-thin GMT module just 1.4mm thick and
developed exclusively for Hermès by Agenhor. Two time zones
and two day/night indicators, showing the home and the local
time, are displayed. Adjusting it is simple and fun; just press the
pusher. “Fun” – a rare and simple quality peculiar to Hermès.
From 10,000 to 20,000$
LAURENT FERRIER MINUTE REPEATER
A non-water-resistant case and gongs in steel to supply the
Minute Repeater with the fullest sonority and most crystalline
tones; chimes that last up to 17 seconds; a power reserve of 80
hours and a minimalist display pared down to the essential:
hours, minutes and a small-seconds subdial, all incomparably
legible on a dial in satin-brushed red gold with a silvered and
azure seconds hand. Only the essential.
From 200,000 to 500,000$
LAURENT FERRIER GALET BLACK REGULATOR
We couldn’t resist the temptation to show two watches by Laurent
Ferrier who, where “purity” is concerned, is forcefully and evidently
making a statement of style, in the noblest sense of the term.
The regulator display was developed for wholly practical reasons:
to provide the most accurate reference time to which all
watchmakers at work could regulate their watches. Hence the
separation of the respective displays of the hour, minute and
second. A programme which the Galet Black Regulator fulfils to
perfection. From 20,000 to 50,000$
GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966
A slender overall line, ultra-thin case, smoked-grey dial, domed,
polished leaf-type hands, baton-type appliqué indices or Roman
numerals, 40mm or 36mm by 8.9mm or 9.01mm: “Simplicity is
the supreme sophistication”, said Leonardo da Vinci.
From 10,000 to 20,000$
NOMOS GLASHÜTTE AHOI NEOMATIK SIGNALWEISS
Every detail counts. Since form follows function, the form here
follows that of the 3.2mm automatic calibre, which is expressed
on a dial of immaculate white with red markers and blue hands
coated with Luminova.
Water-resistant down to 200m, with a “fast-drying” light grey
textile strap. What’s not to like.
From 3,000 to 5,000$
BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC
Sedate, simple, elegant, modestly dimensioned (40mm) and
affordable, the Clifton Baumatic soberly presents three hands
and a date aperture, indices in the shape of slender arrows and
an excellent power reserve of five days, courtesy of its calibre
with a silicon escapement custom-developed by the Val
Fleurier manufacture, which is part of the Richemont group.
How to surprise with simplicity. From 1,000 to 3000$
SEIKO CREDOR SPRING DRIVE EICHI
Simplicity of design, exquisite finishing of the movement, an innovative
torque return system and a hand-painted, pure white
porcelain dial. “Eichi”, wisdom in Japanese, reflects the fusion
of traditional Japanese watchmaking skills with the highest
and most advanced Spring Drive technology. From the design
of every component to the hand-painting on the dial, Eichi is
made by elite watchmakers at the Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri
in central Japan. Japanese at its best.
From 20,000 to 50,000$
All mentioned prices are indicative and correspond to price segment.
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