1. MASTERPIECE MOONPHASE RETROGRADE by Maurice Lacroix
While the brand has taken a turn towards more affordable offerings in recent years, its portfolio still includes a series of prestigious models from the period when it was moving upmarket and exploring complications – notably during the glorious first decade of the 21st century. At the forefront of these is the Masterpiece collection. More than twenty years after its first retrograde display model (the Calendrier Rétrograde of 1999), Maurice Lacroix is relaunching a series showcasing the genre, which is elegant in the extreme. In the new model, a retrograde day at 2 o’clock, a retrograde date at 10 o’clock and moon phases are for the first time all assembled beneath a snailed blue dial or a silver-grey dial with the Clous de Paris motif. The dial reintroduces the small Roman numerals used by Maurice Lacroix in the 1990s, set on a circular satin-finished chapter ring. Rare elegance at an intentionally competitive price, in line with the brand’s philosophy.
2. MASTER SERIES MOON PHASE by Titoni
The independent Swiss brand, which celebrated its centenary in 2019, has added a moon phase complication to its Master Series. The fine batons for markers, classic hands and elegant moon at 6 o’clock all combine to lend this model a kind of timelessness. The dial is available in several versions: anthracite, silver or blue, combined with a leather strap or a steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. Beautiful independence.
3. PRETIOSUM by Jean Marcel
Jean Marcel presents a new collection this year: Pretiosum. Among the models introduced is the “Réserve de marche – Lune”, of which only 100 pieces will be produced. Equipped with the JM H21 hand-wound calibre (based on ETA/Unitas 6498), this limited edition displays the moon phase at 6 o’clock and the power reserve function at 9 o’clock. In line with the brand’s philosophy, the case with fluted bezel and screwed-in lugs has been designed to be as slim as possible.
4. PORTUGIESER PERPETUAL CALENDAR 42 by IWC
The Portugieser line (the origins of which date back to the 1930s) has been entirely redesigned and revamped this year. One of the new models combines for the first time the famous IWC perpetual calendar (a house speciality developed in the 1980s by Kurt Klaus) with an in-house movement from the 82000 family of calibres. The dimensions have been reduced to a diameter of 42 mm for the case in steel or red gold, making it finer, more elegant, more timeless. And indeed, there’s no need to hurry – the calendar module will require no correction before 2100.