elaunching a brand with such a heritage as Universal Genève requires a deep understanding of its history and legacy. Georges Kern, Chief Executive Officer of Universal Genève, grasps this perfectly: “For Universal Genève, ‘Le Couturier de la Montre’ was never just a tagline. It defined the brand, capturing its creative spirit and unique sense of craftsmanship. Now, the sleeping beauty of watchmaking is awakened, opening a new chapter in the long history of one of the industry’s most beloved names.”

More than the relaunch of a historic brand, the return of Universal Genève revives a founding idea: that precision serves aesthetics. The balance between elegance and mechanical purpose has always defined the brand: functional beauty remains the thread that runs through all the new collections.

A tailored approach

Universal Genève revives its original spirit through three well-defined expressions reflecting its “couturier” philosophy.

Prêt-à-Porter Collections are permanent interpretations of the core icons, remaining faithful to their original character while introducing contemporary twists.

Capsule Collections are limited seasonal editions of the most emblematic timepieces, exploring creative variations in materials, colours and decorative techniques.

Couture Creations consist of unique pieces developed in close collaboration with exceptional artisans.

The brand also offers Signature timepieces. Produced for a limited period, these reinterpretations of iconic archival pieces preserve the character of the originals while introducing subtle contemporary refinements.

Like the finest couture houses, Universal Genève partners with leading specialists, including Laurent Jolliet, one of the last chainmakers in Switzerland, Nelly Rodi, a leading luxury trend forecaster, and Isabelle Villa, an accomplished miniature painter, enriching the creative ecosystem of the brand.

Now that the backdrop is set, Universal Genève can unfold its creations, where watchmaking becomes couture.

The Polerouter: the ultimate icon

Reintroducing such an iconic model as the Polerouter is no small feat. The original, designed by Gérald Genta in 1954, quickly reached iconic status thanks to its beautifully balanced dial, the reliable functionality of a watch made for the first commercial flights over the North Pole, and timeless appeal.

The new Polerouter is true to the original version with its distinctive outer dial, twisted lugs and signature crosshair. It adds a contemporary touch with its domed dial with two finishes bringing even more texture and artistic beauty.

Universal Genève collector Mattia Mazzucchi, author, with Andrew Willis, of The Polerouter, connects with the new model: “Of the original design, I loved the proportions, the sleekness, timelessness of the original design: qualities that icons are made of. Moreover, it was designed for a purpose, and this is something I find in the new Polerouter, too: intention.Everything in the new design feels intentional, which is the only way to remain true to the original philosophy.”

As a member of the advisory board who gave input on the new collections, he shares some insight: “The group of people Universal Genève brought together to ensure the new creations were up to expectations was incredibly critical. For me, this is the best proof of Universal Genève’s commitment to upholding the brand’s original intent.”

Which key features should return on the new models were discussed at length. For example, the Polerouter retains its distinctive outer dial ring, twisted lugs, and signature crosshair—now subtly reimagined with artistic refinements.

The Polerouter calibre was an icon in its own right, establishing Universal Genève as a pioneer in micro-rotor automatic movements. The Microtor Calibre 215, introduced in 1958, is celebrated as one of the thinnest automatic movements of its time. Continuing in this vein, the new models are equipped with the new Microtor UG-110, boasting a delicately decorated ¾ micro-rotor. The movement runs at 4 Hz and features a “weekend-proof” 72-hour power reserve, seamlessly uniting, once more, beauty, elegance and technical innovation.

The new Polerouter is presented across the Prêt-à-Porter and Capsule editions. The former consists of five classic models in stainless steel or 18k rose gold—three 39mm with date, two 37mm—with dual finishes on the crosshair domed dials adding complexity to the design. The matte and polished finishes of the outer dial add texture to the whole, which features the emblematic satin-brushed twisted lugs.

The capsule editions feature six artistic interpretations (across two sizes): three Camaïeu models in 37mm cases with diamond-set bezels in three colours—Aqua Mint in steel, Toffee and Berry in 18k rose gold—and three Hardstone models in 39mm cases, in stainless steel with a bull’s eye dial or 18k rose gold with a dial in lapis lazuli or tiger’s eye.

The legendary Compax

Chronographs are another category in which Universal Genève made a lasting impact on watchmaking, setting new standards in both aesthetics and functionality. The first Compax, with its distinctive three subdials, was introduced in 1936. By the mid-1960s, the Compax had risen to iconic status. Both a rugged tool and a stylish accessory, it encapsulated the brand’s philosophy of functional beauty.

The new Universal Genève Compax Chronograph in its iconic “panda” version in stainless steel with three sub-counters. A true revival of the original version in 39.5mm with engraved ceramic bezel. Also available in “reverse panda” in steel and, for the first time, in an 18k rose gold version.

The relaunched version stays true to the original, with its contrasting subdials, twisted lugs, distinctive hands and tachymeter bezel, all enhanced by modern finishes. The new cases measure 39.5mm with polished and satin-brushed finishes. The new line also introduces 18k rose gold for the first time in the core offering, alongside the classic steel version.

Models are powered by a brand-new movement, UG-200, featuring an integrated micro-rotor, column-wheel chronograph, vertical clutch and traversing balance bridge. At 6.63mm thick, it runs at 4 Hz, delivers a 72-hour power reserve and ensures smooth, precise operation while enhancing the watch’s elegance. This movement unites the two historic pillars of the brand’s expertise—its pioneering micro-rotor technology and recognised chronograph expertise—into a single, refined calibre.

Matthew Fisher, better known as DandyWatchman, is a specialist collector of Universal Genève chronographs. In his view, “the original Compax design was totally ahead of its time, and the best proof is that it is still timeless today. The raised bezel, twisted lugs, triple-register architecture and tremendous wearability made it the icon it still represents today. What I love about the relaunch is that the UG team made a concerted effort to embrace the collector community’s vision. It enabled them to stay true to the incredible heritage of the name.”

The core Prêt-à-Porter line features three models with ceramic bezels. Two steel models revive the emblematic “panda” and “reverse panda” dial designs, while the 18k gold edition presents a midnight blue dial and bezel against white subdials.

The Compax capsule editions introduce playful, fashion-inspired variations of the sporty chronograph. Dials take their cue from woven textiles, using translucent lacquer to evoke soft linen textures, while the leather straps mimic denim fabric for a sophisticated finish. Three models come in brushed indigo (with stainless steel case), sage green (18k gold case) and dry lavender (18k rose gold case), with the coloured dial and bezel softly contrasting against the white subdials and inner bezel ring.

Rebirth of an Art Deco classic

The Cabriolet, initially named Ideo, was Universal Genève’s reversible watch, introducing an ingenious top-side flipping mechanism. This Art Deco line returns as a dual canvas for creative expression and made-to-measure personalisation.

The Art Deco classic Cabriolet comes in four different versions. This one offers a red lacquered dial and an 18k rose gold case set with diamonds on a red alligator bracelet with butterfly clasp.

It expresses a dialogue between Art Deco artistry and contemporary watchmaking, underscored by the visual languages of the renowned French painter and typeface designer Cassandre and the celebrated Polish painter Tamara de Lempicka. Clean lines and strong geometry are paired with deep colours and assertive graphic letterforms.

The Cabriolet Prêt-à-Porter line comprises four watches. A stainless steel model features a blue dial paired with a nine-row steel bracelet, while a red dial version is paired with a ruby-red alligator leather strap and framed by a diamond-set case. The white dial edition comes with a dark brown alligator strap, and the black dial model is presented in 18k rose gold with a nine-row gold bracelet.

All models are powered by a new manual-wound movement, the UG-111, a 3mm rectangular calibre operating at 3 Hz with a variable-inertia balance, revealed through the open sapphire back. It delivers a 72-hour power reserve.

The Cabriolet De Lempicka design capsule edition is a highly limited work of art, presented in a velvet teal colour with an 18k rose gold case. In collaboration with renowned miniaturist Isabelle Villa, every caseback is adorned with a hand-painted miniature of one of De Lempicka’s canvases. The capsule will debut with 15 pieces (five of each), offering collectors a choice of three paintings: Portrait of Mrs Bush, Tamara in Green Bugatti and Docteur Boucard.

The Disco Mini

As a true “Couturier de la Montre,” Universal Genève introduces a new collection, the Disco Mini. Inspired by the Disco Volante, it reinterprets its round, sleek, lugless design into an everyday watch with a variety of colours, materials, and textures.

The Disco Mini Prêt-à-Porter line comprises two 28mm models: a rose gold version with a “Clou de Paris”-engraved bezel, and a white gold version with a pavé diamond-set bezel. They are offered in three sizes and both come with a coordinating flexible bangle inspired by vintage bracelets from the late 1940s.

Universal Genève’s new Disco Mini collection balances elegance, practicality, and personal expression with its refined mother-of-pearl dial, lugless case, superb Clou de Paris engraved large bezel and interchangeable bangle bracelet.

The Capsule edition consists of the Disco Mini Lace: a 32mm white gold watch featuring a vintage-inspired diamond-set bezel framing a delicate blue mother-of-pearl dial set on a flexible white gold bangle bracelet.

The collections also offer a wide variety of easily interchangeable straps, further enhancing their role as perfect fashion accessories.

The Dioramic Couture edition blends jewellery and watchmaking expertise. The lattice-worked case incorporates scattered emeralds and champlevé lacquer accents inspired by the central imperial jade. The large domed bezel adds presence to the whole.

Jewellery Couture editions

Marking the high point of this grand relaunch, Universal Genève reveals its most exceptional creations in the Couture editions. The stunning Dioramic Couture fuses watchmaking and jewellery. The bezel becomes domed and three-dimensional, while the lattice-worked case incorporates scattered emeralds and champlevé lacquer accents inspired by the green tones of the central imperial jade. These details enhance the contrast between the warm glow of the rose gold case and the cool green of the stones, while adding depth and texture to the watch.

The second creation, the Cabriolet Couture edition, is an artistic evolution of a 1933 model, transformed into an Art Deco cuff that conceals a secret time display.

Next comes the Disco Mini Couture edition. Each dial is cut from a rare opal, selected for its depth and unique play of colour. A halo of carefully chosen gemstones surrounds the bezel, matching the opal’s shifting hues and enhancing its natural spectrum. The case is crafted in 18k rose gold, with each gem set in a refined three-prong mount, and paired with the Disco Mini’s signature flexible bangle bracelet, available in three sizes.

The final jewellery watch is the Disco Maxi Couture edition, whose bold 42mm dial is fashioned from ruby root. Surrounding it, a gradient of baguette-cut stones unfolds from ruby to pink and white diamonds.

Signature editions

Concluding this extensive relaunch, Universal Genève introduces the Signature timepieces, which reinterpret some of its most original and celebrated designs.

The Dioramic Signature edition reinterprets the Monodatic of the 1950s and its characteristic oversized bezel with concentric fluting, polished twisted lugs and a sapphire box crystal. The recessed calendar integrated into the bezel features modernised numerals and an open caseback that reveals the twin-barrel UG-110 Microtor calibre. It comes in stainless steel and 18k rose gold versions.

The Disco Volante Signature edition revisits the distinctive profile of the Uni-Compax chronograph through a lugless stepped case with a polished inner bezel, engraved concentric decoration on the outer ring, a grained dial with the two-counter chronograph display and tachymeter scale.

The Disco Volante Signature timepiece revisits the distinctive profile of the Uni-Compax from the 1930s through a lugless stepped case with a polished inner bezel and engraved concentric decoration on the outer ring. A pronounced sapphire box crystal extends the case’s flowing shape, while the grained dial features applied indexes and a two-counter Uni-Compax chronograph display with tachymeter scale.

The Disco Volante Signature timepiece is available in two versions: stainless steel with a blue dial and tone-on-tone counters, paired with a blue strap, and an 18k rose gold model with a rose gold dial and black alligator strap.

This grand relaunch of Universal Genève embodies the clear vision that led to these new creations. True to its unparalleled heritage, the new brand offers a complete style embodying the profound DNA of the brand: function follows beauty, and design defines personality. Long live the new Universal Genève!