eter Lindbergh’s “Life is about moments” campaign is an enduring image for the many who associate Baume & Mercier with their “first real watch” or the watch they received for a milestone in life, gifted by parents for a first communion, an eighteenth birthday, on graduation or when getting married.

In 1887 Baume & Mercier was awarded the highest score at the Kew Observatory trials — 85.1 out of 100 for a split-seconds chronograph — and in 1892 achieved a record score of 91.9 for a keyless chronometer with tourbillon escapement.

At this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva, the brand (established 1830) presented a reworking of its three signature collections — the Riviera, the Hampton and the Clifton — under the guidance of a new Chief Executive, Michael Guenoun, who previously helmed the TimeVallée multibrand retail network, which is also Richemont-owned: an important point for a volume-driven brand such as Baume & Mercier.

An advert for Baume & Mercier, published in Europa Star in 1952, already emphasises women’s watches.

This isn’t the easiest of segments, having one eye on the “accessible” market that has spawned a multitude of new players, and the other on the higher echelons of “haute horlogerie” that rivet attention on the contemporary watch scene. It is, however, essential to the performance of the Swiss watch industry. We sat down with Michael Guenoun.

Baume & Mercier CEO Michael Guenoun

Europa Star: Before stepping into the CEO role at Baume & Mercier, you were in charge of developing Richemont’s TimeVallée international multibrand showroom network. What can you take from this experience, particularly with regard to the future of the multibrand environment, and apply to Baume & Mercier?

Michael Guenoun: I’m a great believer in the multibrand concept and convinced that watchmaking also needs to exist through quality multibrand stores which, beyond the transactional aspect, offer an authentic experience. A multibrand store introduces a customer to all of watchmaking, its environment and heritage. It’s both vital and healthy for the branch. The founders of Baume & Mercier were themselves quick to understand the importance of these relations with resellers around the globe, who would be fundamental to the brand’s growth. Now we have the opportunity to take this relationship even further, in a disrupted context. The “Time to Reconnect” programme that we launched during Watches and Wonders 2025 highlights the added value we can bring to our partners. Baume & Mercier’s business plan is also to support multibrand.

The Riviera, with its twelve-sided case, has been the brand’s luxury sports watch pillar since its reintroduction in 2021. It lends itself to new versions with a smaller 33mm diameter in summery pastel shades, as well as a 39mm special edition fitted with the Baumatic in-house automatic movement.

What is the current size of your sales network?

We have around a dozen monobrand stores as well as internal distribution in Japan. Otherwise, the vast majority of our sales points are multibrand, over a thousand in total, whether that’s in the Middle East, Europe or Asia. They’re very important to us.

Michael Guenoun, Baume & Mercier CEO (centre), recently cut the ribbon at the brand’s new store at Villaggio Mall in Doha, Qatar, with local partner Ali Bin Ali.

Higher-end brands tend to monopolise what we put under the umbrella of “heritage” yet Baume & Mercier, in a relatively affordable segment on the scale of Swiss watchmaking, also boasts a long and rich past.

This is a key point for the brand’s development. We have our own museum which holds some 1,200 pieces that we select for presentations and also show at Watches and Wonders. Baume & Mercier’s history, in my view, deserves to be better known. One of the first things I did on being appointed was to ask to see the museum collection. These are frankly impressive pieces. Every showing of our historic models is greeted with success, anywhere in the world.

Carrying forward the pure essence of 1950s design and positioned at the high end of Baume & Mercier’s offering, the new Clifton Baumatic models, which debuted at Watches and Wonders 2025, are a first taste of the full collection launching in September. Proportions and finishing of the 39mm case have been carefully reworked, including a slimmer 11.5mm profile. Arabic numerals return at 12 o’clock alongside longer indices. The date is shown in a large aperture at 6 o’clock and features a new font design. The domed sapphire crystal shouts out to the model that inspired the collection, while the more slender crown has been better integrated.

In a watch industry dominated by the high end, brands in every segment use the language of luxury to market themselves. Some mirror this by launching products at higher price points. What is your strategic vision for Baume & Mercier and opportunities in your segment?

We’re very attached to our positioning, which forms part of Baume & Mercier’s history. The brand’s added value is emotion. Wherever I travel, people tell me that the first “real watch” they ever received was a Baume & Mercier, often for a milestone such as turning eighteen or landing their first job. It’s something many people share. Baume & Mercier becomes an important marker in their life. We’ll continue to develop this “first ever” narrative, authentically and at a fair price. Life is about sharing moments and celebrating together.

Baume & Mercier’s in-house Baumatic movement is resistant to everyday magnetic fields up to 1’500 Gauss, operates at 4Hz (28,800 vib/h) and delivers five days (120 hours) of power reserve. Finishes include circular-graining on the bridges, a sandblasted and snailed mainplate, and an openworked oscillating weight with snailed Côtes de Genève.

Which are the mainstay collections?

This year we’ve presented the “new Hampton”, the “new Riviera” and the “new Clifton”, having worked hard to clarify our message and each line. In this same vein of relatability and accessibility, this year’s Watches and Wonders was the first time we sold our watches directly to end customers during the public days, which proved an immensely successful initiative. Simplifying our portfolio maximises our impact. The 73-piece limited-edition Riviera Flyback has been well received as an exceptional timepiece. Chronographs are really important for us.

You’ve chosen “enhancing the balance” as your theme this year.

This is the thread that runs through all our creations: a balance of history, modernity and design. Seeking that elusive balance between our heritage, new releases and a creative aesthetic that drives volume sales. Building on the success of last year’s Riviera Baumatic Perpetual Calendar, we’re introducing new chronographs to the Riviera collection, as well as a 33mm quartz model in summer colours, in a more lifestyle vein.

Like all watches fitted with the Baumatic Manufacture movement, the new Clifton models benefit from an extended six-year warranty in addition to the standard two-year international warranty.

The latter is also your entry-level model.

That’s right, at under CHF 2,000 on a rubber strap. It targets a younger clientele with a tailored advertising campaign. Summer is an important moment in the year and the Riviera is the perfect summer watch – right down to its name. The Clifton with a Baumatic movement, which provides five days of power reserve, cements the brand’s reputation as a watchmaker and is another major collection for Baume & Mercier. From a sales perspective, the “new Hampton” in steel is important, too. Not forgetting, alongside these pillars, the Classima.

Which are your growth markets?

We’re seeing strong growth in the Middle East and in India, a market we entered early on through our London office. For many years we developed models exclusively for the Indian market, where the brand is still highly regarded. We have high expectations for this market, particularly as our offering there is generally well balanced between the men’s and women’s segments. Women’s models, which are at the origin of our brand, have strong potential for growth. Currently, our offering is 70% men’s and 30% women’s across the collections. We also anticipate strong growth in Qatar, where we recently opened a monobrand store alongside a local partner. Switzerland remains an important market and a priority alongside Italy and France, where we are well established and enjoy an excellent reputation.

Introduced in 1994, the Hampton collection has been redesigned in a refined 35 x 22.2mm case that measures just 6.92mm high. The silver opaline dial carries rhodium-plated Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock, rhodium-plated indices, blue sword-shaped hands and a grey minute track. The quartz movement has an autonomy of six years.

The US has driven global demand for watches in recent years. Where do you stand in that market?

We have to make up ground, as our distribution is relatively weak compared with competitors. We intend to step up the pace because there is significant potential for growth.

This 1950s-inspired Riviera plays on contrasting black and white, with a white wave-pattern dial framed by a black outer flange that echoes the azuré black counters. The automatic movement beats at 4Hz (28,800 vib/h) and provides 48 hours of power reserve. Water-resistance is 10 ATM (approximately 100 metres).

Baume & Mercier has a long history. Its 200th anniversary, in 2030, is around the corner. Of course, this isn’t a “linear” history but one of various eras and distinct styles. Which periods do you intend to highlight?

This history is fundamental to our creation processes. One of the best examples is the new-generation Riviera, which commercially has had a great response and has helped the brand a lot. Our heritage is our greatest resource. On arrival, I was struck by how creative our historic jewellery watches are, and by the Art Deco style. Then it’s a question of having the competencies required to reinterpret them, which fortunately we do have as we’ve continued to invest in these developments which underpin our legitimacy.

This 41mm flyback chronograph channels a vintage aesthetic in a limited edition of 73, in honour of the year, 1973, the Riviera collection launched. The fine concentric detailing of the chronograph, telemeter and tachymeter subdials is framed by Roman numerals and rhodium-plated indices, with a beige Super-Luminova treatment.

What can you tell us about strategy with regard to movements, between group capacities, third-party calibres and in-house developments along the lines of the Baumatic?

We are extremely proud of the Baumatic, an in-house calibre with five days of power reserve. It equips the Clifton line, the most “mechanical” of our collections, as well as certain Riviera models. It’s very much a strategic area. We will continue to build on the Baumatic and, after the perpetual calendar and moon phases, are working on the chronograph. Obviously this implies a higher average price, although we intend to maintain a diverse offering. We are just as proud to offer quartz models with a guaranteed ten-year battery life. This capacity to offer a broad range of products is strategic.