Watch Curator ’18


Watch Curator ’18
- Calibres

QUARTZ IS NOT DEAD!

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October 2018


Watch Curator '18- Calibres

In our Watch Curator ’18 we have made clear the parallel trajectories of connected and vintage mechanical watches. In this context, things might not be looking so good for quartz, caught between a rock and a hard place. A programmed decline would logically have begun with the halting of innovation.

H

owever, the opposite seems to be the case: laboratories have been hard at work in the field of watch electronics. This issue’s cover star Longines has set itself the task of achieving quartz ultra precision with their V.H.P. collection. The company has been using mobile phones to help with quartz precision!

Keeping with the Swatch Group, “mother of all calibres” ETA has also been innovating in quartz by designing an ultra shock-resistant model. In Japan, Citizen is also joining the race with a concept calibre that features formidable precision. The mechanical movement ecosystem is also joining in, with watchmakers such as Vaucher Manufacture continuing their upmarket offerings. The field of innovation in movements seems to be thriving: quartz precision, mechanical elegance, connected hybrids... anything goes!

The field of innovation in movements seems to be thriving: quartz precision, mechanical elegance, connected hybrids... anything goes!

CITIZEN CALIBRE 0100
CITIZEN CALIBRE 0100
In 1975, with the Crystron Mega, Citizen launched the world’s first quartz watch accurate to ± 3 seconds per year. It then went on to embrace light-powered technology in the form of the Eco-Drive to produce highly accurate timepieces. This year, for its 100th anniversary, Citizen drew on this experience to achieve yet another milestone: a quartz calibre with an annual accuracy of… ± 1 second! The extraordinary Calibre 0100, which runs at a frequency of 8.4 MHz, is a prototype and has been presented in a pocket watch. We might, however, see first applications as of next year!
VAUCHER MANUFACTURE SEED VMF 6710
VAUCHER MANUFACTURE SEED VMF 6710
The Seed VMF 6710 is a new high-performance automatic column wheel chronograph developed by Vaucher Manufacture. The chronograph complication is more difficult to produce that one might instinctively think, and it has probably never been as popular as it is today, so it makes sense to see this move by the high-end calibres specialist. The chronograph combines high frequency (5Hz), a column-wheel command, a vertical clutch and a triple return-to-zero hammer. It is available in short series.
ETA HEAVYDRIVE
ETA HEAVYDRIVE
HeavyDrive is ETA’s new system for use in quartz movements, that will enable them to tolerate heavier hands than is usually possible. The HeavyDrive can detect, but also most importantly manage, the effects of impacts. The system’s integrated circuit prompts the motor to produce an opposing force to counteract the one caused by the impact. The seconds hand sees a 200% increase in unbalancing mass, while the minutes hand is increased by 20%. This new technology will be applied to a collection of 21 movements.

TO READ MORE
Europa Star Watch Curator ’18 is a selection of 147 watches classified under 13 specific trends:
Tourbillons - Globes - Sun, Moon & Stars - Purity - Open-worked - Skulls - Sport - Tough - New displays - Barocco - Vintage & Neo-vintage - Connected - Calibres.