The 1911 BTR collection heralds the imposing return of Ebel to the realm of the masculine timepiece. During its “grand period”, before the brand encountered a period of many vicissitudes, men’s watches represented 40 percent of production at the La Chaux-de-Fonds based company. This percentage gradually dwindled, especially during the time when Ebel belonged to LVMH, since the group’s objective was undoubtedly to make Ebel the feminine counterpart of TAG Heuer. Now, after being moved to the fold of the Movado group, we are witnessing the auspicious return of Ebel to its roots. It is a symbolic return, represented notably by the return of its historic slogan, “The Architects of Time”.
The journey to the brand’s rebirth, based on its fundamental values (its DNA, as today’s marketers like to say), had to pass by Ebel’s re-conquering of the masculine segment. This process is in strict agreement with the traditional canons of the brand, starting with its stylistic roots, and revisiting the emblematic models by making them more beautiful, as well as updating the look in keeping with today’s trends.
With the emblematic slogan “The Architects of Time”, Ebel’s stylistic roots preordained a particular approach to design, an approach which favours clarity of expression, fine workmanship on the forms and functions, and absolute comfort in terms of wearablity.





An entirely reworked 1911 model
Twenty years after having launched the 1911 model, the designers at Ebel have completely revisited it. Giving it a larger size, more in line with current trends (44.5mm), they reworked the model to make it more imposing by making it more dynamic and by conferring on it more formal sophistication. You really need to hold and wear this very “architectural” timepiece to appreciate all its qualities, especially the case that is very strong yet incomparably gentle to the touch, primarily due to the fine manual polishing of the watch’s curved lines and its discreet “waves”. The dial, with a 32mm opening, has been entirely redesigned in order to offer exceptional readability, featuring bevelled hands, facetted time markers, and counters with an inverted Clou de Paris motif. The effect of the pushbuttons and crown is enhanced with rubber (in the chronograph model), and the case is mounted on either a sturdy hand-stitched leather strap or a robust, yet very comfortable, metal bracelet.

The first 100-percent Ebel automatic chronograph movement
All these efforts resulted in a very masculine timepiece, extremely chic but not at all ostentatious. However, Ebel wanted to go even further by equipping it with its first automatic chronograph movement that has been totally designed, developed, tested, assembled, and controlled by the brand’s own watchmakers.
Five years of development were necessary to develop the new Calibre 137. With a diameter of 31mm and a thickness of 6.40mm (providing a chronograph movement whose relatively thin size was made possible because of its design and its parallel mounting), it vibrates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It also features a power reserve of 48 hours, as well as a precision of -4 to +6 seconds per day, thus permitting it to qualify for COSC certification.
The hour and minute displays, as well as small seconds at 9 o’clock, are completed by the chronographic functions featuring an hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock, minute counter at 3 o’clock, and seconds in the centre. Yet, this movement also has a date module, with a semi-instantaneous disk that allows for rapid date correction. The bi-directional ball-bearing rotor takes the form of an architect’s compass, superimposed with the “E” of Ebel. Above the symbol, the movement can be seen through the large opening.

GMT and a perpetual calendar
On a base of the Calibre 137, Ebel has developed two other automatic calibres, the Calibre 240 that equips the 1911 BTR GMT Model, and the Calibre 288 that equips the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph version, found in the same collection.
These two models conclude the masculine line of the 1911 BTR Collection. The GMT model has the appearance of a chronograph, and the two pushbuttons are used to easily change the date and the second time zone. There is maximum readability of the dial, since the two red or blue coloured hands of the date and the second time zone greatly stand out against the anthracite or cream background, giving an appearance that is both discreet and distinguished.
As for the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, it is the most sophisticated model of the new collection. Its traditional displays – month (with leap year indications), day of the week and date – are joined by the chronograph indicators (the 30-minute counter is coupled with the date indicator, and the 12-hour counter is coupled with the lunar phase indicator), and by a precise lunar phase display, with an accuracy of one day in 122 years.
This grand complication is offered in a limited series available in steel, or rose or white gold, and is presented in a special box, that includes an automatic watch winder.




GMT and Perpetual Calendar Chronograph


Aggressive pricing
Ebel’s determination to re-conquer the men’s market (the brand intends to maintain 40 to 45 percent of its sales in masculine timepieces), has led the company to offer this new collection at very aggressive prices. (As an example, on the Swiss market, the GMT model sells for 4,900 CHF including VAT, the chronograph for 5,900 CHF, and the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph for 27,900 CHF.) This is a clear indication of Ebel’s ambitions in this particular market segment, which is also occupied by many competitive brands. But the distinct refinement that emanates from these very recognizable timepieces should help them to make inroads into the men’s marketplace.
Judging from the response during a pre-presentation this past spring at Baselworld 2006, the market is already anticipating Ebel’s return to the masculine sector. The baptism of fire is expected in mid-October with a worldwide launch whose message can be summed up as follows: “Ebel is back, more watch and more masculine than ever.”


Source: Europa Star October-November 2006 Magazine Issue