The Rose Golden age


January 2017

The Rose Golden age

Just when we thought rose gold could not saturate the luxury market any further, rose gold dials are making something of a statement in gentlemen’s fine watches.


ust when we thought rose gold could not saturate the luxury market any further, rose gold dials are making something of a statement in gentlemen’s fine watches.


As a trend, the rise of rose gold is neither new nor terribly exciting. It could be dismissed as a spillover effect from the high-end jewellery market, where it was driven by consumer demand. What’s fascinating in this ‘Rose Golden Age’ is how the very feminine pink blush metal has infiltrated its way into bulky complication watches, often in unfortunate and somewhat unpleasing styles. That said, not all is doom and gloom. The Rose Golden Age has also given birth to some refreshingly stylish minimalist heritage timepieces.

VENTURER TOURBILLON DUAL TIME by H. Moser & Cie + Rose gold cufflinks set by Jacob & Co.
VENTURER TOURBILLON DUAL TIME by H. Moser & Cie + Rose gold cufflinks set by Jacob & Co.

One such powerful piece that brings to the limelight how the metal adds strength to the style is the Venturer Tourbillon Dual Time by H. Moser & Cie, with the HMC 802 automatic movement, seen at SalonQP. We are told it is unique both for the dual time function, which can be hidden when not in use, and the Moser minute tourbillon module below an open-worked bridge. But what makes it stylish is the delicate finishing of the dial. Encased in red gold with a matching dial in fumé red gold with a sunburst pattern, this Venturer tourbillon dual time has a brown alligator strap and a red gold folding clasp. Yes sir, the brand has risen from the rose and ventured deeper into red. Quite successfully, as this model stands triumphant in comparison to other similar models in white gold. If you agree, don’t stop with the Venturer. Jacob & Co has the perfect rose gold cufflinks set with wavy rose background to match the openworked bridge of the watch.

One inevitably asks whether the rise of women as watch consumers has contributed to this Rose Golden Age? Or the growth of the Asian market? Potentially both. Maybe neither.

Women are being seduced by targeted rose gold rarities of their own. One of the most successful in terms of style is the Moon Abstraction by Montres De Witt. With its pure lines and slender Napoleonic columns, the watch’s rose gold case highlights the delicate refinement of the dial. No paint is used, the dials are crafted from powdered pigments and 60 diamonds adorn the bezel, adding brilliance to this celestial design, crafted from powdered precious stones. If this watch soothes your eye, Bulgari has just the rings to match in their MVSA collection – a simpler pink gold with blue topaz or a larger style with tanzanite and mother-of-pearl.

Now, at the risk of raising a few eyebrows, the saturation of the luxury watch market with complications and bulky sizes may have induced this Rose Golden Age in men’s watches and is possibly taking us back into the lane of heritage minimalism. Have we entered an era when brands are infusing femininity into bulky masculine fine timepieces? Could feminine minimalism be the next luxury trend for boys’ toys?