udor has successfully submitted its Black Bay Ceramic model for tests to obtain a Master Chronometer certification as part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products. This is the first application of this standard to a watch in the Tudor collection. This certification, which requires a substantial number of changes to the Tudor Manufacture Calibre, will mean that Tudor will be able to offer accreditation by an independent body, confirming the excellent quality of its watches.
Metas Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 +5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4 +6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than Tudor’s internal standard, which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre (-2 +4).
The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees that the waterproof capability claimed by the manufacturer conforms with the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standard 22810:2010, as does the power reserve of each Master Chronometer watch. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Aesthetically, the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic combines contemporary, high-tech details with subtle references to its significant heritage. Its matt black monobloc ceramic case has sand-blasted surfaces with bevelled edges, mirror-polished for a striking contrast, and is finished with very pronounced lines. The insert of its rotatable bezel is also in black ceramic with a sunray satin finish.
The engraved graduations in matching tones offer a complementary additional matt detail, which responds subtly to changes in light. Its dial is also black on black, the only contrast being its applied hour markers with off-white luminescent material. Finally, a hybrid leather and rubber strap, black of course, with a “Snowflake” motif on the inside and folding clasp, as well as a complimentary black fabric strap with cream band completes the stealthy black look of this model.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U, which powers the Black Bay Ceramic, displays hour, minute and seconds functions. It has the finish typical of Tudor Manufacture Calibres but is entirely in black, in line with the general appearance of the watch, emphasising its distinctive performance. Its rotor in black tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision, as is its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixing. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U is able to function within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0 +5).
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture MT5602-1U Calibre is “weekend-proof”; that is to say, it has been certified for 70 hours by Metas, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.
Like other models in the Black Bay range, the Ceramic adopts Tudor’s characteristic angular hands known as “Snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. The result of a subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking, the Black Bay line is far from simply being an identical rerelease of a classic. Resolutely anchored in the present, it brings together almost seven decades of Tudor diving watches. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques and its robustness, reliability, durability and precision as well as the quality of its finish are above modern industry standards.
Case 41 mm matt black ceramic case with micro-blasted finish and monobloc middle case Open case back in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with sapphire crystal
Bezel Unidirectional rotatable bezel in black-PVD-treated 316L steel with 60-minute graduated disc in black ceramic with sunray satin finish and engraved markings and numerals
Winding crown Screw-down winding crown in black-PVD-treated 316L steel, with the Tudor rose in relief and circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
Dial Black, domed
Crystal Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproofness Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
Bracelet Hybrid leather and rubber strap with 316L steel folding clasp and safety catch in black PVD-treated 316L steel Additional black fabric strap with cream band and black PVD-treated 316L steel buckle, included in the box
Calibre Manufacture Calibre MT5602-1U Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Power reserve Certified 70 hours by METAS
Precision Swiss chronometer officially certified by COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
Functions Centre hour, minute and seconds hands Stop-seconds for precise time setting
Oscillator Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw Non-magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Total diameter 31.8 mm
Thickness 6.5 mm
Jewels 25 jewels