his new variation on the regulator theme captures the essence of a collaboration: Louis Erard has been one of the Franches Montagnes region’s more maverick brands for almost 100 years, while Label Noir has been a Geneva-based atelier at the forefront of customisation for more than ten years.
The meeting of these two worlds produces a spark - a green spark, like the last ray that the sun sends over the earth before hiding behind the horizon. A spark that illuminates the rich black tones that watchmaking expertise is capable of producing.
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir is all about depth. Emmanuel Curti, head watchmaker and founder of Label Noir, wanted to redesign the regulator in his own way of reading the time: first the hour, then the minute, then the seconds. This order of reading led to graduated finishes, from true matte to a glossy sheen.
The first thing that jumps out at you is the small hour dial: the only glossy black element on the entire watch, highlighted by a thread of mirror-polished steel. The rest of the dial is in vertically brushed matte, accentuating the contrast, while the case is treated in matte black so as not to interfere with the dial. The strap adds a finishing touch: black Cordura woven fabric that stands out from the rest, as if adding to the play of textures and extending the range of black tones.
In this design, director and artistic director of Louis Erard, Manuel Emch, found a new way of drawing the lines of collaboration. Each element in this watch leads back to the same principle: we are always stronger together.
Emmanuel Curti has found a training ground in Label Noir’s style. It’s a style that’s been developed over time, through customisations for private clients and collaborations with other brands. A style that was already in an embryonic phase in Label Noir’s very mission: to take the concept of watchmaking to another level, by daring to add variety, matte, black, and acid colours.
Without teamwork, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Label Noir wouldn’t exist. This model was built in dialogue, in a series of exchanges, over many proposals and iterations. Multiple prototypes and different versions were created. In the end, the most iconic model was chosen: the one that best reflects both worlds - one ode side Label Noir’s chromatic concentrate, on the other side, Louis Erard’s signature components: the Excellence case, the fir-tree hands, and the regulator.
Movement Automatic regulator, Sellita SW266-1 calibre, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol, approx. 38 hours of power reserve
Functions Hour hand at 12 o’clock, central minute hand, second hand at 6 o’clock
Case Sandblasted stainless steel with black PVD coating, Ø42 mm, lug width: 22 mm, lug to lug: 49.60 mm, thickness: 12.25 mm, 3 pieces, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent green caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50 m/165 ft), signature fir tree crown, caseback engraved with “Limited Edition 1 of 178”
Dial Black, satin finish at 6-12 o’clock with white and green transfers, polished black lacquer counter at 12 o’clock with polished rhodium-plated ring and white transfer, counter at 6 o’clock with white and green transfers. Logos Louis Erard X Label Noir at 3 o’clock
Hands Signature fir tree hands, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and green lacquered second hand
Strap Black nylon with green stitching, black calf leather lining, sandblasted stainless steel pin buckle with black PVD coating, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
Recommended retail price CHF 3,500. Limited edition of 178 pieces