To fully grasp the rich history of the iconic Carrera collection and its legendary timepieces, one must embark on a journey through time. The Carrera collection, making its debut in 1963, was originally conceived without a date complication. However, the collection’s evolution took an interesting turn just three years later when a date function was introduced at the 12 o’clock position, giving birth to the first iteration of the Dato design.
But the evolution didn’t stop there. In 1968, a significant transformation occurred as the date window relocated to the nine o’clock position. This pivotal moment marked the emergence of the iconic Dato layout, which has since become synonymous with TAG Heuer’s commitment to precision and style.
The Carrera 45 Dato, a true masterpiece, quickly gained popularity among discerning individuals for its modern aesthetics and exceptional legibility. Its dial design, characterised by stark black and white contrasts, represented Jack Heuer’s philosophy of prioritising readability. The watch boasted a 17-jewelled lever movement, a water-resistant case, a reinforced mainspring, and durable glass. With features like Incabloc shock absorbers, an all-steel case, a 1/5-second stopwatch, and the ability to stop and restart the recorder without resetting, it offered incomparable functionality without compromising its timeless design.
Over time, the distinctive mono subdial configuration of the Dato earned it the affectionate nickname “Cyclop” and solidified its status as a cherished collector’s piece. This enduring appreciation eventually led to a significant collaboration with Hodinkee, suggesting the Dato as an ideal candidate for a re-edition. The fruit of this partnership materialised in 2021, breathing new life into the Dato model with subtle refinements, such as transitioning from a 45-minute recorder to a 30-minute recorder and changing the flange color from white to black.
In 2023, TAG Heuer introduced three notable timepieces in the Carrera collection: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph in blue, featuring a date at 6 o’clock, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph in black, with a date at 12 o’clock and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in blue. And now, in 2024, TAG Heuer proudly presents a green monochrome variant, with a date at 9 o’clock, impeccably enhancing this series. Continuing the heritage of the Dato configuration, the latest addition is a testament to TAG Heuer’s commitment to preserving its rich legacy while embracing modernity.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph masterfully combines heritage and modernity. While retaining the iconic Dato vintage look, it has notable technical enhancements including improved ergonomics on the case, a gracefully curved flange, and a dial with circular brushed finishing. The watch, crafted from steel, showcases rhodium-plated indexes and hands, complemented by a teal green azuré mono subdial at the three o’clock position.
The timepiece boasts a domed sapphire Glassbox crystal. It is called “Glassbox” for its domed, curved, crystal glass, paying homage to similarly domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s. Reengineered to have a curve that flows seamlessly over the flange, it runs along the edge of the dial, blending into the case. This innovative design offers an easy reading of the indications on the dial via the front glass.
The watch features an open caseback that showcases TAG Heuer’s in-house movement Heuer 02 listed as TH20-07, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Additional refinements, like the bidirectional automatic winding mechanism, enrich this remarkable timepiece. Notable characteristics of the movement include a five-year extended warranty, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to durability and reliability. It also contains a distinctive shield-shaped rotor, a symbol synonymous with TAG Heuer.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph comes on high-end black alligator leather strap adding a touch of luxury, with a stainless-steel folding clasp.
To complete the release, TAG Heuer unveils the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon - a captivating addition to the Carrera collection – in an elegant teal green circular brushed dial, creating a sophisticated statement piece.
At its heart, the watch features a tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, encased within a glass frame. The dial of the 42mm watch testifies the intricate craftsmanship of TAG Heuer, showcasing a tourbillon. First perfected more than 200 years ago, a tourbillon is a continuously rotating cage that surrounds the escapement and is designed to counteract the influences of gravity on the accuracy of a mechanical movement. Even today, few watchmakers have mastered its complex form. TAG Heuer is among an elite group of manufacturers to have done so.
Remaining true to the Carrera’s heritage, the watch retains the iconic Glassbox design. The curved sapphire crystal provides a panoramic view of the tourbillon from various angles, enhancing the overall readability and aesthetic appeal. The teal green flange, rhodium-plated applied indexes, and deep azuré subdials, surrounded by green rings, further contribute to the watch’s readability and elegance.
One of the most captivating highlights of these releases is the introduction of teal green as a defining color for the Carrera collection. This unique hue made its debut in the 2021 TAG Heuer Carrera limited edition, extending to the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph segment in 2023 and is now making a powerful return in 2024 with the new Dato inspired Glassbox model and the new Tourbillon model.
The choice of teal green is not arbitrary; it pays homage to motorsport history, particularly the vintage green shades of the racing cars during the thrilling era of national color racing from the 20’s to the 60’s. This color selection reflects TAG Heuer’s racing heritage, infusing the Carrera collection with the nostalgia of that golden age of motorsports.
Described as a harmonious blend of blue and green, teal green embodies TAG Heuer’s unique vision and historical resonance. This captivating shade enriches the Carrera portfolio with a fresh and dynamic dimension, appealing to enthusiasts of both classic timepieces and modern design, poised to become an enduring hallmark of the collection.
As one embarks on this journey through time, from the collection’s inception in 1963 to its latest evolution in 2024, it becomes evident that the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronographs are not just watches; they are a symbol of TAG Heuer’s heritage, capturing the hearts of watch aficionados worldwide.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Calibre TH20-07 Automatic
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Teal green circular brushed dial
Teal green flange with 60 second / minute scale
One counter 3 o’clock: teal green “azuré” minute chronograph counter; rhodium plated polished hand Rhodium plated facetted, polished applied indexes Rhodium plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova
Rhodium plated polished central hand
White TAG HEUER printed logo
9 o’clock angled date
CARRERA SWISS printed
Steel fine brushed, polished case
Glassbox domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Steel crown at 3 o’clock
Fine brushed, polished steel round push-button at 2 o’clock
Fine brushed, polished steel round push-button at 4 o’clock
Steel screw-down sapphire caseback
Water resistance: 100 meters
Black alligator leather strap
Fine brushed, polished steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons and TAG Heuer shield
Lug-to-lug: 46 mm
Thickness: 13.86 mm