time-keeper


Breitling debuts exclusive perpetual calendar chronograph movement

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September 2024


Breitling debuts exclusive perpetual calendar chronograph movement

The Swiss heritage brand continues its “140 years of firsts” celebrations with the unveiling of the Caliber B19, which promises a century of precision without major adjustments and an impressive 96-hour power reserve, and has equipped three flagship models with this revolutionary calibre.

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ounded in 1884, Breitling is marking its anniversary with a yearlong celebration of its “140 Years of Firsts”. Now, there’s a new addition to that roster of pioneering achievements: the Caliber B19, Breitling’s first perpetual calendar chronograph movement. The new caliber makes its debut in three limited-edition 140th-anniversary pieces representing Breitling’s icons: the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat.

“The Premier, the Navitimer, and the Chronomat are the most impactful collections in Breitling’s history,” says Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. “We couldn’t single one out to showcase the new Caliber B19 for our anniversary - it had to be all three.”

Before delving into the details, here are some of the Breitling firsts that lead to this moment:
• 1884: Founder Leon Breitling established a business centred on measuring time, speed, heart rates, sound, and just about everything that could be clocked with a pocket chronograph.
• 1915: His son, Gaston, launched the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher at two o’clock that could start, stop, and reset the chronograph seconds, independent of the crown - a significant advancement in user control.
• 1934: Leon’s grandson, Willy Breitling, released a watch with a second independent pusher at 4 o’clock, establishing the form of the modern chronograph still used across all of watchmaking today.
• 1969: Breitling co-developed the first automatic chronograph caliber to reach the market - a breakthrough that solved the watchmaking challenge of its era: how to combine a chronograph with an automatic movement.
• 2009: Breitling released its first in-house-developed movement, the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, widely recognised as the gold-standard chronograph caliber.

Breitling’s three “One of 140” limited-edition timepieces add a new first to this legacy: the Caliber B19, fully designed and assembled at the Breitling Chronometrie.

Breitling is one of only a handful of independent watch companies producing its own manufacture movements. It began in 2009 with the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 and continued with a progression of chronograph calibers: the B02 with 24-hour function, the B03 with split-seconds, and the B04 with GMT. Many more innovations followed.

The new Caliber B19 is the brand’s first exclusive perpetual calendar movement, and naturally, it is also a chronograph - Breitling’s specialty from the beginning. It features a full calendar and moonphase, automatically correcting for leap years and months of 28,30, and 31 days, so it can run for nearly a century without a major adjustment. What’s more, it has a remarkable power reserve of approximately 96 hours.

A quantum leap by Eterna SA

The movement’s solid-gold rotor is decorated with an engraving of Breitling’s historic Montbrillant Manufactory at 3 rue de Montbrillant in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Montbrillant was more than a factory: Its west wing was a villa-style home that housed three generations of the Breitling family. The Montbrillant building, which served as Breitling’s manufacture for more than 80 years, had pride of place in company advertisements. Its name even appeared on watch dials in the 1930s and ’40s.

Premier B19 Datora 42 140th Anniversary: The Premier made its debut in 1943 as the watch that took the chronograph out of the cockpit and into society. It was the gentleman’s chronograph, a symbol of good taste that also happened to be a highly functional tool watch. The anniversary edition in solid 18 k red gold retains the Premier’s distinctive Arabic numerals, contrasting minutes scale, and signature square pushers. The strap is black alligator leather with elegant tone-on-tone topstitching and an 18 k gold folding buckle.

Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary: The Navitimer was the first watch for pilots to combine a chronograph with the brand’s proprietary circular slide rule flight computer. Originally developed in 1952 for members of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the Navitimer quickly found favor with a broader audience that included celebrities and astronauts - in 1962 it became the first Swiss wristwatch in space. The anniversary edition features the famous slide rule in black on an attention-grabbing 18 k red-gold dial. The strap is alligator leather with contrasting topstitching and an 18 k gold folding buckle.

A quantum leap by Eterna SA

Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary: The Chronomat first launched in 1983 as the official watch of Italy’s aerobatics team, the Frecce Tricolori. The popularity of its design led to a wider release a year later. This quartz-era timing was significant - the Chronomat was instrumental in restoring the popularity of mechanical chronographs. The anniversary edition features the model’s distinctive design with four raised rider tabs at the 15-minute marks, an “onion” crown, and a rubber version of the model’s classic Rouleaux bracelet. Ceramic inserts give it a supercharged look. Plus, it marks another first for Breitling: a dramatic skeletonised dial.

Each anniversary limited-edition is presented with a sumptuous suede-lined wooden watch box that can be configured to display up to three timepieces. Additional features include a drawer for storage and a removable travel pouch. Owners will also receive a deluxe edition of the book Breitling: 140 Years in 140 Stories (Rizzoli, 2024) personalised with their selected anniversary piece on the cover and showcasing Breitling’s illustrious heritage in vivid storytelling and photography.

“With the Caliber B19 and our anniversary limited editions, we’re making history again,” says Georges Kern. “This launch is about being as groundbreaking as our 140 Years of Firsts demand.”

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