he first Heuer Seafarer chronograph was presented alongside another watch without chronograph function called the Heuer ‘Solunar’ (derived from a combination of ‘solar’ and ‘lunar’) which was designed to indicate the times of high and low tide at a specific location.

The tide time indicator at six o’clock was initially conceived by the president of Abercrombie & Fitch, Walter Haynes, who commissioned Heuer to refine his concept and to produce the Heuer Solunar on behalf of America’s premier high-end sporting goods retailer - which subsequently made it available to sailors and ‘outdoorsmen’ through its New York store.

Although the original idea for the tide indicator came from Haynes, a young Jack Heuer, played a part in its development by discussing the proposed watch with his school physics teacher who improved the calculation of the gear ratios to enhance the mechanism’s accuracy.

Now, 77 years after it was first seen on the Heuer Solunar, the tide indicator re-appears on the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer, which combines the platform of the versatile (and much applauded) glassbox design, first seen in 2023 with some of the original codes that made particular versions of the historic models so distinctive.

And at the heart of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer lies the new in-house TH20-04 automatic movement, which has been specifically developed to incorporate the tide indicator function. The tide indicator is simple to set using the special ‘TIDE’ button located at the nine o’clock position on the case. When pushed, the button causes the tide disc – which is divided into quadrants – to rotate.

After checking the tide times at a given location, the disc moves so that the quadrants marked ‘high’ and ‘low’ correspond with the relevant known times. The disc will make one complete rotation in 29.53125 days, throughout which it will accurately display when the tide will be at its lowest or highest, providing an invaluable indicator of the optimum times to sail in or out of harbours or along tidal rivers and estuaries.

The specific glassbox design construction with curved dial flange and domed crystal, enabling high legibility, makes the tide time indicator and its corresponding 60 seconds and 30-minute subdials exceptionally clear and easy to read, even when aboard a pitching boat.

This legibility, a key feature of Carrera watches, is further enhanced by the distinctive colours used on the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer’s dial - notably the ‘Intrepid Teal’ that is named after the 1967 America’s Cup-winning yacht ‘Intrepid’ which inspired Jack Heuer to create the original Skipper regatta chronograph the following year. Intrepid Teal highlights can be seen on the hour and minute hands, the 30-minute chronograph counter and on the all-important tide indicator, where it is paired with a dark yellow based on the original pieces.

The colour complements beautifully the curved, 18k 3N yellow gold-plated indexes and the triangular-shaped marker at 12 o’clock – a feature present on all of today’s Carrera exploration watches.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer’s robust, 42mm case is made from a combination of fine brushed and polished steel that contrasts beautifully with theopalin champagne dial – while turning the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal case back engraved with TAG Heuer’s signature ‘Victory Wreath’.

The crystal allows a clear view of the in-house TH20-04 tide indicator calibre, which features a vertical clutch and column wheel to ensure smooth operation of the chronograph pushers and seamless functionality.

An 80-hour power reserve gives the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer in excess of three days of autonomy when the watch is left unworn, with automatic winding being taken care of by a rotor in the shape of the famous TAG Heuer shield.

In addition to displaying the tide times, the timepiece can, of course, be used as a regular chronograph. To further enhance the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer’s tool-watch capability, it is fitted with TAG Heuer’s seven-row steel bracelet, a sophisticated re-interpretation of a heritage ‘beads of rice’ design that unites comfort and character with an exceptional aesthetic.

Introduced in 2025, this new version of the bracelet that became synonymous with earlier versions of the Carrera combines brushed and polished links and has been specifically developed to enhance the heritage vibe of the glassbox models.

Additionally, each TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer will be supplied with a sports strap in a beige colourway similar to traditional boat rigging. Its lining matches the Intrepid Teal details of the dial and a robust, folding clasp in stainless steel ensures security on both land and sea.

The original Seafarer remained in the Abercrombie & Fitch catalogue until the mid-1970s, during which time it was produced in many variations using multiple different case and dial designs. Heuer also sold its own version of the watch called the ‘Mareograph’ and made another model called the Solunagraph for another U.S. sporting goods retailer, Orvis. All are now highly sought-after by collectors.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Movement

• Calibre TH20-04
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph, Tide indicator

Dial

• Champagne opalin dial
• Beige flange with 60 second / minute scale
• 3 counters: 3 o’clock: lacquered blue teal & beige “azuré” minute chronograph counter, 18K 3N yellow gold-plated polished hand; 6 o’clock: beige second chronograph counter; 18K 3N yellow gold-plated polished hand; 9 o’clock: teal blue & yellow lacquered tide indicator
• 18K 3N yellow gold plated facetted, polished applied indexes
• 18K 3N yellow gold plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with teal blue Super-LumiNova^®
• 18K 3N yellow gold plated polished central hand
• Black TAG HEUER printed logo
• “CARRERA”, “SWISS” & “SEAFARER” printed

Case

• 42mm diameter
• Bezel free construction
• Steel fine brushed, polished case
• Glassbox domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
• Steel crown at 3 o’clock
• Fine brushed, polished steel round push button at 2 o’clock
• Fine brushed, polished steel round push button at 4 o’clock
• Fine brushed, polished steel shaped push button at 9 o’clock, with “TIDE” engraving
• Steel screw-down sapphire caseback engraved with Victory Wreath
• Water resistance: 100 meters

Bracelet

• Stainless steel , seven-row ‘beads of rice’ bracelet with fine brushed and polished links and folding clasp with double safety push-buttons; TAG Heuer shield
• Additional strap in beige with Intrepid Teal lining, fine brushed, polished steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons; TAG Heuer shield

Dimensions

• Lug-to-lug: 48,60mm
• Thickness: 14,40mm

Estimated SRP

• 8,300 CHF
• Five year warranty