he NH Type1 series began with its prototype in 2018 and was launched in 2019 as Naoya Hida & Co.’s first product. Ongoing refinements led to the NH Type1C in 2020 and the NH Type1D, which has been produced since 2022. This year marks the fifth generation of the series.

The most notable update is the new 36mm case, reduced from 37mm, whose more compact profile somehow gives the watch an even more confident presence. While it may resemble the NH Type1D at first glance, the differences are clear upon direct comparison. The redesigned sapphire crystal now features a more pronounced domed profile, enhancing depth and dimension. Consequently, the case thickness has increased from 9.8mm to 10.9mm, further elevating the watch’s visual impact.

The NH Type2 series debuted in 2020 with the NH Type2A, featuring a hand-wound center-seconds movement. This was followed by the NH Type2B in 2021, the NH Type2C in 2022, and the brand’s first collaboration with The Armoury, the “NH Type2C-1 Lettercutter,” also released in 2022.

The NH Type2C-2 is the first Naoya Hida & Co. model to feature a porcelain dial. “We have long aimed to use materials beyond German silver and Argentium silver, and are pleased to have realized this goal, ” said the creator.

The development focused on harmonizing the porcelain dial, reminiscent of 19th-century timepieces, with the NH Type2 series’ reinterpretation of 1950s and 1960s dress watches. The simple dial design, enhanced by hand-painted indexes and logo, integrates seamlessly with the case for a balanced and distinctive look.

The NH Type3B-4 is the first NH Type3 series model with a moon-phase mechanism to feature hand-engraved decoration across the entire case surface, except for the bezel and caseback, both in 18K yellow gold. The positive response to the engraved NH Type1D-3 in 2024 inspired the brand to expand engraving to a larger scale.

This year’s design motif is Art Nouveau, a style less common in watchmaking than Art Deco. “Through this project, we aim to revive the era’s spirit in a modern form. For the first time, we have applied gold leaf to the three-dimensional, relief-sculpted Arabic numerals, capturing the essence of the period with a contemporary perspective.”

The NH Type5A, introduced in 2024 as the brand’s first rectangular watch, received an excellent market response. “After a year of personal testing, I determined that subtle case adjustments were needed for a more refined and harmonious design.”

For the NH Type5B, “we updated the dial design and shortened the lugs by 1mm on each side. The stepped section along the case flank was widened by 0.3mm. While these changes are minor, they significantly transform the watch’s overall impression, highlighting how small dimensional adjustments can greatly influence character.”

The NH Type5A-1, introduced in 2025, was the brand’s first model to feature an acrylic cover glass. “I have long appreciated the warmth and unique character of acrylic crystals on vintage watches. Discovering that modern acrylic materials could produce high-quality cover glass, I decided to adopt this approach, though I was initially unsure how enthusiasts would receive it.”

The response was overwhelmingly positive. “Therefore, when designing the NH Type5B, I confidently included the NH Type5B-1, which also features an acrylic cover glass. I encourage you to compare both models side by side.”

“When I began my watchmaking project in 2012, I considered using vintage movements, but limited experience and concerns about sourcing spare parts prevented me from doing so. However, the interest remained.”

“A few years ago, I acquired a significant number of vintage movements, including the iconic Valjoux 23(236) chronograph caliber. I aimed to combine its vintage appeal with a modern case, hand-engraved indexes, and sculpted hands to create my ideal Valjoux 23(236) chronograph. This vision led to the NH Type7A.”

“When I began working in the watch industry in 1990, I was drawn to smaller timepieces, especially classics like the Patek Philippe Ref. 96 and Breguet Ref. 3210. Despite the industry’s shift toward larger cases, my desire to create a refined, compact watch remained.”

“Developing the Cal. 2524SS for the NH Type5 series gave me the confidence to design a small movement that positions the small seconds far from the dial center. This led to the creation of a 31mm screw-down dress watch. The result is the NH Type8A, featuring the new hand-wound Cal. 2326SS, a complex three-piece case with a see-through caseback, and a domed sapphire crystal.”

“For me, this model represents the first step toward creating the ideal small watch.”