In the beginning of the horological era, Italy played a primary role in the design and construction of clocks. We recall, for example, 'Notturni' or the 'Astrario' of Dondi. With the modern era, especially when wristwatches came upon the scene, the Bel Paese, like France and Great Britain, acquiesced in favour of Switzerland and Japan. Still for all, the countries in the European Union, including Italy, have maintained an important, even leadership, role in stylistic choices and market trends. These countries have given the mechanical watch an undeniable added-value.

There are two ways to look at watches. First, their role is to tell the correct time. Well, low-priced electronic products, computers and even cellular telephones can do this task very well. Second, fine watches have, in addition to their financial investment and image, an emotional and symbolic value that demands qualities far superior to the functional and technical aspects of merely reading the time. This is one of the main reasons why there is such a fascination for the mechanical watch. Encompassed in this concept is the affirmation of one's culture, social standing, taste and personality. Having a timekeeper that can accurately indicate the hour is merely a detail in this regard.

The fascination with the mechanical timekeeper, at least as far as Italy is concerned, is alive and well. Even though there is no local production, Italy is in the particular situation of having a very strong stylistic influence on the Swiss watch industry, recognized the world over for its strong tradition and quality. The explanation does not end there. The circle linking the technical prowess of 'Swiss Made' and the taste and sensibilities of 'Italian Style' has resulted in a series of products that were designed in Italy but manufactured in Switzerland.

This situation has given birth to new production, even to new brands that are basing their products on the added-value of the mechanical watch. The most recent and most emblematic example is undoubtedly that of Officine Panerai. This brand has become a veritable fashion phenomenon. Beyond its legendary history and over-sized case, it owes a large part of its strength and charm to the fact that it is totally equipped with high quality mechanical movements. (We are sure that if the identical watches were to be equipped with quartz movements, they would not have the same success.) Panerai must also be sure of this, since the brand is investing in its own production facility in Neuchâtel.

Along the same lines, we already know that, some twenty years ago, the re-introduction of the famous Reverso was initiated by Italy, more precisely by Giorgio Corvo (who, along with his son Michele, heads up the national distribution for Jaeger-LeCoultre). Confident that Reverso's re-launch would be a success, Corvo convinced the brand to use only mechanical movements in its models.

The passion for mechanical timekeeping manifests itself in Italy in other, non-commercial ways as well. In this respect, we can cite the creation four years ago of the organization 'Hora'. This association of collectors of antique watches regularly organizes colloquia and publishes an auto-financed periodical on timekeeping similar to those in Britain and France.

We should also mention events linked to large specialized stores, such as Pisa Horology in Milan, which sponsor thematic exhibitions featuring mechanical watches, among others. Another indication is how seriously Italians view traditional watchmaking. A recent example concerned TAG Heuer, a brand whose historical value and savoir-faire have always been recognized but whose presence in the Italian market took hold only after the brand began re-launching its early models. The Monaco, Carrera, Monza and Autavia are all equipped with mechanical movements.

The Italian craze for mechanical calibres can also be seen in the success of certain specific new models, such as the sporty Anonimo, the mid-range and upper mid-range models by Lorenz and Wyler Vetta, and in the classic haut de gamme timepieces by De Bethune and Minerva. In all these cases, the stylistic choices, design and management are all Italian, while the technical production is rigorously Swiss. Is this one of the keys to a watch's success?